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Shooting board plane

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Project by Jeremymcon posted 02-22-2018 12:01 PM 1983 views 2 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I recently finished this dedicated shooting board plane in maple and walnut. I had been using a jack plane or jointer plane on my shooting board, which worked fine, but was a bit uncomfortable since those planes really aren’t meant to be held in that orientation.

This plane had a turned handle that makes it much easier to use in its side, and also has a much wider reference surface to help keep things square.

It ended up working OK – my metal bodied planes are heavier, so have an easier time getting through the end grain of more difficult woods. I may try to install some lead somewhere in the body of the plane to help with that. It does work, though, and is much more comfortable to use!





9 comments so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9608 posts in 1512 days


#1 posted 02-22-2018 01:04 PM

Nice work.

Yeah. You gotta have some mass.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View swirt's profile

swirt

2785 posts in 2998 days


#2 posted 02-22-2018 02:34 PM

A great looking plane. Well done.

Regarding the need for mass, try to lock your arm rigid, and then move your body, you will have all the mass you need.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

View Andre's profile

Andre

1888 posts in 1832 days


#3 posted 02-22-2018 04:59 PM

What angle is the blade set? Low angle is what is needed for end grain.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View Jeremymcon's profile

Jeremymcon

262 posts in 706 days


#4 posted 02-22-2018 05:07 PM

Andre,

I had been using standard bench planes on my shooting board bedded at 45 degrees, and they worked just fine.

I did make an attempt to do a wooden plane bedded at 38 degrees, but found that it didn’t cut very well. I think it was maybe about the bevel angle of the blade not having enough clearance in a bevel-down style plane. I sharpened the iron to 23 degrees to try to fix the problem, but then the edge wanted to roll.

So anyway, I ended up deciding to just do 45 degrees since it worked well enough with the bench planes I had been using.

If I ever make another one, I might try a skewed iron.

View BobFrankly's profile

BobFrankly

16 posts in 1010 days


#5 posted 02-22-2018 06:52 PM

no guide rail to the right side of the plane on the shooting board. I wonder if adding one would help make up for the lack of mass.

-- BobFrankly, California

View Jeremymcon's profile

Jeremymcon

262 posts in 706 days


#6 posted 02-22-2018 07:11 PM

I thought about that Bob, but I’m not sure if it would. My issue isn’t that the plane won’t stay in the cut. It just, stalls part way through. I have ordered some weights that I’m going to add once they arrive. If that doesn’t help maybe I’ll add the extra guide.

View BobFrankly's profile

BobFrankly

16 posts in 1010 days


#7 posted 02-22-2018 07:25 PM



I thought about that Bob, but I m not sure if it would. My issue isn t that the plane won t stay in the cut. It just, stalls part way through. I have ordered some weights that I m going to add once they arrive. If that doesn t help maybe I ll add the extra guide.

- Jeremymcon


Sounds good, I’d like to hear the results.

-- BobFrankly, California

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

31393 posts in 2893 days


#8 posted 02-22-2018 08:11 PM

This is a very nice shop made plane and will be a great addition to your shop.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- helluvawreck aka Charles, http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

View Dave Polaschek's profile

Dave Polaschek

2206 posts in 608 days


#9 posted 02-23-2018 12:47 AM

Nicely done, Jeremy. Swirt’s suggestion to lock your arm and move your body is a good one. Even with my metal jack-planes, I sometimes need the extra moving mass, and that trick works.

-- Dave - Minneapolis

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