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Walnut/Copper Serving Board

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Project by Fiddy posted 02-15-2018 12:01 PM 738 views 5 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Morning!

Quick update on a project I’ve been wanting to try. This was also done by Johnny at Crafted Workshop https://craftedworkshop.com/blog/walnut-and-copper-cutting-board-serving-board-how-to-build-woodworking and was originally designed and sold by Meadors Made https://www.meadorsmade.com/shop-1/small-rectangle-serving-board who he based his off of.

I had the idea of running some curly maple down the middle to create some additional interest and I’m really happy with how it came out. This project looks simple enough, but there were some learning moments for me. I wanted to get through this one and figure out what is what so I can move forward with batching out a handful of them for some gifts etc.

Any feedback, questions etc. please let me know.

I do have a couple questions if anyone is able to advise. Looking for a better option on screws that would match the copper, once i hit these with some scotch brite I had to replace them as the coating came off. I’m sure it will be an issue on the others in the future if anyone tried to clean up the copper. Second, any ideas on how to get a better grip on the end grain, specifically the Walnut? Luckily the maple provide a better grip, but the walnut was spotty. Doesn’t really seem to have much strength. I did end up having to fill two of the holes with Epoxy to ensure they had a better grip. Didn’t know if there was a better plan for the next ones.

Thanks!





13 comments so far

View oldrivers's profile

oldrivers

1247 posts in 1468 days


#1 posted 02-15-2018 01:45 PM

Very nice, may I say Elegant!

-- Soli Deo gloria!

View pottz's profile

pottz

2576 posts in 886 days


#2 posted 02-15-2018 04:26 PM

thats a beautiful serving board and i love the combo with the copper.i not sure what you mean about the grip?ive worked with walnut many times and have always found it to be a very solid strong wood.nice work.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

1864 posts in 1124 days


#3 posted 02-15-2018 06:37 PM

Very decorative!

In response to your screw question, I use copper round head rivets in many of my box corner joints.

You could replace the screws with rivets which are epoxied into the wood. The rivets are available in different diameters/lengths as well as different heads (countersunk style could directly replace your screws)

View Woodstock's profile

Woodstock

251 posts in 3189 days


#4 posted 02-15-2018 07:26 PM

Fantastic tray.

As to your plated copper screw issue-

How did we ever get out of the stone age before Google search? I counted 12,800,000 hits on a search of the term “Copper Screw”. (Click on the link). Odds are with a little digging you can find solid copper screws in here.

-- I'm not old. Just "well seasoned".

View Fiddy's profile (online now)

Fiddy

132 posts in 1212 days


#5 posted 02-15-2018 11:48 PM

Thanks guys.

As for grip, I’m referring to end grain strength to grip a screw. The copper is still under some stress and therefore the screws have some opposing forces to contend with. The maple grabs firmly on the end grain, but the screws hitting walnut (end grain only) don’t have not much “grip”.

Splintergroup – can you refer me to some information on the rivets you’ve mentioned? That sounds interesting enough and maybe a cool option, but also design feature.

Last thing, screws I initially was able to locate were brass. Didn’t really think about the strength of the screw and they were far too soft, even with pilot holes. Do you all agree that copper screws would be any stronger?

View rizzo's profile

rizzo

48 posts in 1153 days


#6 posted 02-16-2018 02:24 AM



Thanks guys.

As for grip, I’m referring to end grain strength to grip a screw. The copper is still under some stress and therefore the screws have some opposing forces to contend with. The maple grabs firmly on the end grain, but the screws hitting walnut (end grain only) don’t have not much “grip”.

Splintergroup – can you refer me to some information on the rivets you’ve mentioned? That sounds interesting enough and maybe a cool option, but also design feature.

Last thing, screws I initially was able to locate were brass. Didn’t really think about the strength of the screw and they were far too soft, even with pilot holes. Do you all agree that copper screws would be any stronger?

- Fiddy

Really nice looking project!!! where did you get your copper bar stock from?

View Rick's profile

Rick

8876 posts in 2934 days


#7 posted 02-16-2018 03:13 AM

Very Nice Indeed & Well Done! Congrats on the “Top Three”

-- I Take My Kids Everywhere! The Problem Is, They Keep Finding Their Way Back Home! (Rick, Ontario, Canada)

View Nick's profile

Nick

19 posts in 1149 days


#8 posted 02-16-2018 03:21 AM

I would make some maple plugs (side grain) and epoxy or glue them into the walnut. This would be covered by the copper anyway.

As for the screws, if you pre-drill and screw in steel screws, then replace them with copper or brass screws, you should be able to get them in without breaking them.

You could also try to get your copper formed tightly (over bend it) so it hugs the board more. Then you could epoxy it to the board and clamp to dry. No screws and super clean install!!

-- My moustache filters wood chips and sawdust out of my scotch - Nick Offerman

View Fiddy's profile (online now)

Fiddy

132 posts in 1212 days


#9 posted 02-16-2018 12:28 PM

Thanks, guys – side grain plugs is what i thought would be easiest and make most sense.

I’m still interested in rivets for this is anyone has a project to share showing this?

My good freind works is part owner in a engineerign company, he also does a lot of custom metal work. Fortunately for me he gets good pricing, I believe it would’ve been around 30 bucks or so, but i made him a gift for his sister so fair trade. Heres the pic of what i made his sis, was pretty cool. She had a picture of a wooden wall mount light for a bedroom, that’s what it was based on.

The link I placed to Crafted Workshop did have a link to Amazon for the bar he used, wasn’t much more than what I wouldn’ve paid.

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1902 posts in 2983 days


#10 posted 02-16-2018 12:53 PM

Very nice work.

-- Chris K

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

1864 posts in 1124 days


#11 posted 02-16-2018 08:58 PM

Hey Fiddy,

Msc Direct has the round and pancake head rivets for a good price (get one of their 40% off + free shipping deals).

Of course Amazon has a good selection as well.

I should have added this place as they have the countersunk rivets as well.

I usually epoxy them into a hole that is slightly larger than the shift (1/8” shaft gets a 9/64” hole) and also scrape a “V” notch near the bottom end with a triangular file if I feel I need more of a mechanical “lock” with the epoxy to hold it in place.

View splinterpicker's profile

splinterpicker

18 posts in 54 days


#12 posted 02-17-2018 02:01 PM

Very nice board and great discussions in the comments. Gaining ideas, insights and learning from others is a great benefit to this site!

View Fiddy's profile (online now)

Fiddy

132 posts in 1212 days


#13 posted 02-18-2018 01:24 AM

Thanks again for the feedback and advice moving forward – looking forward to making more of these!

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