Country Pine Hutch: A misfit- Some times things don't fit or work out... as to what was intended

I sure like the hutch. I just happen to like Pine. I sleep in a room that is completely done in knotty Pine. The look of the west.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Great hutch Dusty. I like the design and glad that it settled the deal on your old home.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Yep my house is mostly pine…great looking stuff…it would look great out west!

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

Thos. Angle.

I agree about liking pine. I like the smell of when it is fresh cut, the look and feel also. I also find pine easy to work with.

It all has to do with personal choice along with what ever style of furniture you are trying to achieve.

Certainly In a western or rustic setting it fits well.

I did a knotty pine ceiling in my cabin and to this day is still one of my favorite projects. The look is very warm and enduring. All I finished it with was a clear coat natural lacquer.

That allowed the pine to speak for it self.

It speaks loud and clear and in volumes.

-- Dusty

the cottage that Rick and I go to sometimes has the bedroom done in rough cut boards, all knotty pine.
It is one of my favourite spots on earth. I wish we had the $$$ to do my bedroom in the same manner.

The “freebie” story is a great example of “give and you will get”.

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

Nice piece, Dusty!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

Pure Gold Dusty!

No matter what you make it always turns to Gold.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Dick,

Oh thank you so much Dick for the comment.

The funny thing is how inexpensive it was to make this project, and simple to top it off.

Would you believe I took every day construction grade 2’6’s – 8’s -and- 10’s.

I found some nice birds eye while sorting through a pile at one of the big box outlets, for a framing house project I was working at the time.

I set it aside, let it dry out a while, then I started playing it up, cutting, sawing and so on and so forth.

This was the result.

Notice how simple the drawers fronts are. They are cut on a table saw.

The shelves are construction lumber, that has been tweaked and made to my desired end result.

Simple.

I have less than a hundred bucks in the whole project.

True story?

True Story!

-- Dusty

you’re kidding. $100???
I love it even more now.

-- "Functional WoodArt" by Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

MsDebbie,

True story.

In fact that included the hinges and finish also.

Remember for the most part it was constructed out of every day construction grade material.

Very inexpensive.

-- Dusty

Dusty, how do you get the great finishes on your pine projects? Do you seal the wood with something before putting on the final finish? One of the nice features of your projects, besides design, is the finish that you achieve.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

cajunpen,

This hutch I applied sander sealer first so it would take stain evenly and avoid the “blotching” that is so common with pine.

I then sanded lightly between coats with 220.

With cheese cloth I hand applied (whip on wipe off) a honey hue inexpensive Mini Was stain.

Allowed to dry COMPLETELY ( 48 HOURS) .

Then I applied a water base poly thinned, several coats one right after another to achieve the build up and look I wanted.

Let dry througly. (48 hours)

Sand with 0000 steel wool.

Blow off all the fine particals with air hose.

Wipe down with tack cloth and apply last coat of thinned poly.

Let dry.

(side note)

I found with pine and other stains that if you have a draft or even heater with a fan or anything like that that the coats dry to fast. I also found that if i Keep it a bit cooler, (58 to 62) with no air movement and let it cure over time I get better results.

WARNING DISCLOSURE WARNING DISCLOSURE WARNING DISCLOSURE WARNING DISCLOSURE

This method is mine. This is not what the can says to do or they recommend.

This has worked for me and is based on time and trail and error. I have no clue what I am doing I just do it because it worked for me and gave me the desired results I liked and wanted.

Do this at your own risk.

-- Dusty

Thanks Dusty, I appreciate the information. Looking at the projects that you have posted, whatever you are doing is working just fine :-))

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

Debbie,

Often times some of the best projects you see here aren’t that expensive or hard to build.

-- Dusty

cajunpen,

Your welcome.

A foot note to this is I have found a better product to use other than your ever day “poly”. since I did these projects I have found that Arm-R-Seal ( brand name) which is available at most of the finish stores is a superior product.

I find it thins better, stands up over time and has a better finish after several coats.

One big advantage is you can after finishing one coat start right over on the next coat. It not only drys fast it drys even.

It also has a protection factor that I like for top coats.

-- Dusty