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1. IKEA Dust Deputy Cart (inspired by Kelster58)

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Project by JANSKK posted 01-22-2018 03:42 PM 2093 views 8 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Two of my projects brought me to Lumberjocks.

This project is about the first one.

I’ve seen many (well, couple) cyclone cart designs. Most of them are designed as a side by side or stacked trolley. I consider both designs as a waste of work space. Inspired by Kelster, I decided to go with rolling saw table/workbench.
Compared to trolleys:
pros:
  • may be used as a work table
  • noise suppression
  • fits the worktable height all around my woodshop (92cm)
cons:
  • a bit heavier
  • less movable (because of weight)
  • and compared to my original design – not transportable to work site at all.
Design… yes, it’s IKEA!
  • Frame Metod 80cm (32’‘) as some other frames in my workshop. I got used one from IKEA DIY corner.
  • Counter-top is used IKEA as well from 2nd version of my kitchen (funny?).
  • Drawer is 40cm (16”) cheaper IKEA forvara.
  • Dust box is IKEA SAMLA plastic box
  • IKEA CASTOR casters
  • 15 mm cheap packing poplar plywood
  • 6 mm plywood for frame back.
  • 50mm HT pipes and bends
  • some screws, PU glue, silicone caulk

Back panel Thin and loose IKEA frame back panel was replaced by 1/4’’ (6mm) plywood to add (otherwise missing) lateral stability.

Dividing vertical panel is 15mm thick (not sure imperial) cheapest “packing” plywood I found in workshop. Divider is installed exactly to fit 40cm ikea drawer on left side. Original IKEA frame chipboard I could use is 18mm (3/4’”). 3mm difference turned to be very important. 800mm(frame width)- 397mm(drawer/saved 3mm) – 18mm (right panel) = 385mm left for SAMLA box. Samla box is 390mm width with the lid, 385mm w/o lid.

box lid – cut the 15mm plywood to fit the space above the box (385mm x depth of the frame to back panel), glue the sides, place it on the box, screw it to frame. (CAULK now the interior and exterior of dust compartment, not after installing the cyclone! :-) )

shelf above cyclone – cut the same size as box lid. DO NOT GLUE IT!

install cyclone – I used hole cutters for wood to cut 75mm (3”) and 60mm (2.5”) holes for cyclone. Caulk bottom flange of cyclone as well. Install upper shelf according to height of your cyclone (295 mm space between lid and shelf for dust deputy). Upper shelf is not glued, it sits on six 5mm metal pins – if any service of cyclone is needed, shelf can be removed easily.

front door – very important part of project. I cut 6mm plywood to fit exactly the dust compartment inner front dimensions, later glued on 15 mm front door to fit outer compartment dimensions (same design as Kelster58 used.). This design ensures exact snug fit, front support for box lid and air tight sealing as well. Front support is important. Given the suction power of more than 210 Pascal and surface of the lid 0.6×0.4m the pressure force is about 50KG, enough to bend or destruct the plywood dust compartment top and bottom panels if not supported well. That’s why glue and screws around the box lid are important as well.

front door sealing – not decided yet, as of now I use the front door taped around with masking tape. PU compressed foam tape is ready be used, but I want to go with some invisible door locking mechanism (any suggestions? No hinges, ho buckles). Idea is to use STRONG neodymium magnets to keep the door closed. Sealing pressure will be maintained by vacuum itself.

HT pipes – 50mm HT pipes are just perfect, 50mm sealing in pipe bend fits cyclone, and 50 mm pipe just fits the Karcher vac. Karcher hose fits cyclone perfectly as well. Sealing around pipe and vac – wrapping plastic foil. PU compressed foam band may be used, but wrapping plastic foil is perfect, it gets sucked around the pipe and vac and seals like nothing else. Please mind paper sealing in my “original deign” – it works as well. Pipe can be turned upwards, so the vac can be removed.

Things to finish
  • not decided how many and if any additional fronts are needed.
  • noise suppression could be improved by enclosing of vac’s compartment, with vent holes of course.
  • Heavy Duty casters – let’s see how IKEA casters will work. currently sustained a lot of beating while mortising on the bench and they are fine.

BTW, thanks Kelster.

EDIT: worktop is 38mm (1,5”) IKEA counter from my old kitchen, screwed to metal rails underneath. I left it protrude the frame to sides, to be able to clamp longer workpiece cutoff and plunge saw rail to it. Based on my future experience, I will cut it to the final length. Worktop is sacrificial, you may see some sawmarks there. Usually I set the plunge saw depth stop a hair more then thickness of the workpiece, I don’t expect to cut it through.

-- Jan





4 comments so far

View htl's profile

htl

3833 posts in 1153 days


#1 posted 01-22-2018 04:23 PM

Nice design, you’ve got to have a work table and helps put the cyclone out of the way, and will help quiet it down a little if you add a door to the vac.

-- Learn More About Making Wooden Models. An Index Of My Model making Blogs. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

View JANSKK's profile

JANSKK

7 posts in 125 days


#2 posted 01-22-2018 10:56 PM

Hi HTL,

definitely yes, I will follow designs for silenced boxed air compressors.

J.

Nice design, you ve got to have a work table and helps put the cyclone out of the way, and will help quiet it down a little if you add a door to the vac.

- htl


-- Jan

View Kelster58's profile

Kelster58

671 posts in 534 days


#3 posted 01-23-2018 02:04 AM

GREAT job. I was inspired by many of the Lumberjocks on this site. I “borrowed” much of my design from members on this site. Very nice. I hope this serves you well…....

-- K. Stone “Tell me and I forget, teach me and I may remember, involve me and I learn.” ― Benjamin Franklin

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

31030 posts in 2861 days


#4 posted 01-23-2018 03:05 PM

This is a nice shop cabinet.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- helluvawreck aka Charles, http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

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