|Project by Bob A in NJ||posted 07-28-2010 at 07:47 AM||2100 views||26 times favorited||12 comments|
I’m in progress of doing a crown molding project for an entire house. Cutting miters is one thing, cutting “upside down and backwards” on a miter box can get confusing. The “sample board” above helps to “see” the cut before you make it.
1) The top row is how the wood looks on the wall and ceiling.
2) The bottom row is what it looks like on the miter box.
For those of us who find this intimidating or confusing, here are some tips to remember.
There are only 4 types of cuts.
The sample board helps you remember how to orient the crown on the saw and which side of the board you SAVE. For example, with a Outside Left cut, save or keep the piece to the RIGHT of the cut.
This is 3” crown. I like to add a 3/4” x 1 1/2” clear pine nailer to the crown molding. This is glued and stapled together with 23 gauge 3/4” nails, then clamped. The wood nailer makes the crown molding wider and more attractive as well as gives much more nailing space. I paint all crown prior to nailing it to the wall.
Use a 18 gauge nail gun with 2 1/2” nails vs. “hammer and nails” to attach to the wall. (This is tricky enough without messing with a hammer).
There is another tip I just learned. Use a 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 30” plywood nailer board behind the crown. Staple it to the corner of the wall & ceiling and then place the crown molding up against it. This creates plenty of nailing space, especially on the scarf joints where you place pieces end to end.
I’m not doing any coping on this project. Just measuring the joints, bisecting them with a “True Angle” gauge and it’s working fine.
The web is filled with videos on how to do crown molding and there seems to be a huge debate about using miters or coping method. What is your opinion?
-- Bob A in NJ