|Project by Rick||posted 1324 days ago||2600 views||8 times favorited||26 comments|
I made a small desktop humidor for my cigars. I don’t smoke often at all, but being a woodworker it was hard to resist making one.
The purpose of a humidor is to keep cigars at the proper humidity (65-70%) and temperature (70deg).
Dovetail joints for the sides. Lid and bottom tongue and groove.
Walnut sides and bottom. Cocobolo lid. The insides are lined with 1/4” spanish cedar. The sides of the bottom stick up into the lid 1/4” to create a seal so that air won’t want to escape.
Brusso hinges – solid brass
3 coats of Deft clear danish oil. 3 buffs – Tripoli, white diamond and carnauba wax.
I LOVE the glossy shiny look the walnut and cocobolo have when applying the oil. But then it kind of disappears when you rub the excess off. 3-4 coats is all I normally do. When you get to the 3rd and 4th coat some of that gloss look stays as you build up the layers. I have the Beall wood buff system which are simply large buffing wheels for Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba Wax. I attach these to a 1725 rpm motor I got from Grizzly. So after the 3 coats of danish oil dried I buffed it. Turned out better than I thought it would. You can put too much wax on the wheel I learned.
I prefer to use the danish oil (though I love the glossy look poly gives) because it’s a finish you just want to run your hands all across when it’s finished. Which is what I love for people to do. Also, I can easily refinish it if I ever need to.
Hygrometer and Humidifier:
Hygrometer is a Xikar – measures humidity and temp.
Humidifier is a Puckifier – holds beads that release and absorb moisture to help maintain 65% humidity.
|From Humidor Pictures|
STEP BY STEP FINISHING
1. I ran all boards through my drum sander. I keep 80 grit in there, although it’s probably more equivalent to 120 right now.
2. I start with the random orbital at 120, 180, 220, 320
3. I rub on a heavy first coat of danish oil with a clean rag. Let it sit for a minute then wipe it clean with another clean rag. You want the first coat to be heavy to ensure that you get as much penetration into the wood as possible.
4. Come back in 20 minutes and rub off all of the little spots of oil that are still secreating from the piece. You may want to do this again 20 minutes later. I do. If you leave the oil build ups on there they’ll dry hard and you have to remove them by sanding.
5. Wait 1 day in between coats of oil. Do step 4 no less than 3 times. Though No more than 5 I would say. After the first heavy coat of danish oil I put on smaller amounts of oil since you won’t get much penetration into the wood. You’d just end up wiping off most of what you put on. So the following coats seem to build up a very very thin layer each time. Thinner than wipe-on poly. So be patient.
6. I don’t sand with anything in between coats of the oil. If you do this in a relatively clean air environment you shouldn’t have to.
7. After done with applying oil let the piece dry for a couple days or until your fingers slide on the surface rather than wanting to grip it.
8. I now start with the Beall wood buff wheels. Tripoli, white diamond then wax.
The tripoli is most aggressive and will smooth and blend in sharp edges. The white diamond buffs the microscopic scratches of the tripoli out. And just when you think it can’t look any better you put a little carnauba wax on the last wheel and buff it again.
NOTES: This finishing method isn’t a “tough” finish like poly. I like it because you can easily touch it up again in a year or two with a quick buff. You could even sand your piece all the way down, re-apply oil, buff again and it’s very easy to do. I like it most because of its soft and smooth look that you want to touch.
I also love the candy gloss look of wipe-on poly and I wish I could do this piece in that also just to see the difference.