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Quickie Planer Table

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Project by HorizontalMike posted 1460 days ago 5439 views 18 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Quickie Planer Table
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I am just getting started with WW and wanted to start out by building the 21st Century Workbench, however, I needed to upgrade my lunchbox planer in order to plane 8-10ft lumber so I built this “planer table/ramp” following plans I saw on Woodsmith Tips:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/10/12/sn/print/

Notice all the 8/4 White Ash in the background for the workbench project. Going to be making a lot of chips!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."





16 comments so far

View azwoodman's profile

azwoodman

132 posts in 1979 days


#1 posted 1460 days ago

Mike,

Ive got the same planer and ive thought about building something like what youve done here. How well does it work? Do you find that it reduces snipe at all?

-- Spencer, Gilbert Az (http://www.azwoodshop.com)

View DYNO360's profile

DYNO360

147 posts in 1463 days


#2 posted 1460 days ago

To Mike and aswoodman, How do you like your Ridgid planner? I was thinking of getting one.

View azwoodman's profile

azwoodman

132 posts in 1979 days


#3 posted 1460 days ago

So far I really like it. Its the only planer ive ever owned so i dont have much to compare it to but the price was good, it has a lifetime warrantee, and it seems to get good reviews all around. My only issue is that I get some pretty good snipe at last 2 or 3 inches of each board but I guess thats pretty common with planers in general.

-- Spencer, Gilbert Az (http://www.azwoodshop.com)

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6914 posts in 1512 days


#4 posted 1460 days ago

I just built this today and have not had a chance to test it out. Prior to this I did send one 3”x2”x10’ piece through with less than stellar results, hence the reason for building the ramps. Spent a lot of time adjusting the ramps and ended up weighting down the “table” with 5 & 10lb weight plates in order to take out the flexing of the 3/4” plywood. I did this because I don’t have a flat bench to clamp to just yet. Chicken or egg thing…

After that, I was able to get some permanent adjustments (for the current placement on the floor). I am sure that when I move this or re-position it, I will have to re-tweak the ramps but I am sure this will be an improvement over the sniped piece that I started with without the ramps.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Greg The Cajun Box Sculptor's profile

Greg The Cajun Box Sculptor

4934 posts in 1906 days


#5 posted 1460 days ago

That is a nice planer table and will be very useful…but I would make it a little taller…it will be much easier on your back.

-- Every step of each project is considered my masterpiece because I want the finished product to reflect the quality of my work.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6914 posts in 1512 days


#6 posted 1460 days ago

Like I said, chicken or egg, chicken or egg. Can’t build the bench until I can plane big long pieces, can’t build a tall flat planer table until I have a big flat bench, potato pototo hep me! I’m gettin’ dizzy!

But seriously, once things get settled I will eventually find a way to elevate this thing, either bolting it on top of the bench this thing will help build or build another bench frame underneath the ramps. Then I could add some storage space under there as well. Hmm…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View cutmantom's profile

cutmantom

269 posts in 1633 days


#7 posted 1460 days ago

I made something similar for my craftsman planer, it doesn’t have feed tables at all, it really improved the cut quality, if the wood is jointed flat there is no snipe, my tables are only 16 inches long

View RonPeters's profile

RonPeters

708 posts in 1478 days


#8 posted 1460 days ago

This might be a dumb question, but what causes snipe?

-- “Once more unto the breach, dear friends...” Henry V - Act III, Scene I

View azwoodman's profile

azwoodman

132 posts in 1979 days


#9 posted 1460 days ago

Here’s a link for ya Ron, http://newtowoodworking.com/snipe/

-- Spencer, Gilbert Az (http://www.azwoodshop.com)

View Eagle1's profile

Eagle1

2064 posts in 1662 days


#10 posted 1459 days ago

A guy told me after telling that I had snipe from my planer. He told me to raise the infeed and outfeed tables just a hair. It took a bit of messing with it but it worked. Anyone out there getting snipe may want to try this out..

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2876 posts in 1683 days


#11 posted 1459 days ago

Thank you for the hints and suggestions on snipe. I am about to start on a 8/4 X12” X 6’ cherry mantle and
was dreading the possibility of snipe ruining the ends. With your help, I think I will be able to eliminate my
problems. Thank you once again. I am too old to quit woodworking and too young to quit making mistakes.

-- As ever, Gus-the 75 yr young apprentice carpenter

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6914 posts in 1512 days


#12 posted 1459 days ago

Eagle1,
I did raise the outer ends of both infeed(31” long) and outfeed(36” long) wooden ramps to one hair/line of the bubble on my level, remembering that 2” thick boards don’t flex nearly as much as 3/4”. I made the outfeed ramp, from cutter to very end of ramp, a total of 53” so that an 8’ board will NOT want to tip off the ramp upon exiting the cutter because more than half the board will still be on the ramp (this eliminates the tendency for snipe).

I also made sure that the wooden outfeed ramp starts probably a 1/16” BELOW the end of the OEM metal outfeed ramp. I noticed that these metal ramps do flex under load and the last thing you would want would be for the added outfeed ramp to stop the flow of the wood through the planer. IMO, it is not nearly as important for the beginning of the added outfeed to perfectly match the OEM ramp. You are going to more than make up for that with the increased incline adjustment at the far end of the outfeed.

RE: OEM ramps on my 13” Ridgid Planer—I did notice that both ramps were off “side-to-side” with one ramp side being higher than the other by ~1/32” or so (measured from the planer’s base platform, NOT from the added new ramps). Not sure how critical this is but it never hurts to tweak it a bit closer with the OEM ramp’s bolt/locking nut.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View dragonnotes's profile

dragonnotes

69 posts in 1630 days


#13 posted 1459 days ago

Thanks for both of the links!..and nice table. I have the same planer and need to build one, but I need to make it collapsable, like foldable wings. (I have a very small shop) Any ideas?

View Brad_Nailor's profile

Brad_Nailor

2531 posts in 2555 days


#14 posted 1459 days ago

I have a Rigid planer similar to these, only older. It’s pretty tough to completely eliminate snipe, but I have it dialed down to the point that if there is any its so slight that it can be sanded out. The trick of raising the tables slightly does work to improve snipe. Also it is really important to support the lumber going in and coming out, so I think your extended tables will also help to reduce snipe.

-- http://www.facebook.com/pages/DSO-Designs/297237806954248

View devann's profile

devann

1735 posts in 1290 days


#15 posted 1272 days ago

I too have a small shop and a “lunchbox” planner, 12”x 6” DeWalt. I snagged an old microwave table with casters and scewed the planer to it. I’ve found that for the long pieces I roll it just outside the shop door and setup infeed & outfeed roller stands. These are like clamps, you can’t have too many of them. Now in fairness here, I have a 5’ extend-a-level that will extend to 13’ 10” that I use has a setup tool when I need a long straightedge in the shop.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

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