|Project by SPalm||posted 07-22-2010 04:01 AM||5023 views||69 times favorited||26 comments|
This was a fun and easy to build cutting board. It takes off on a very popular Chevron design. I put a little twist into it by using small walnut strips to pull out a different design. The woods used were maple, cherry, paduk, Spanish cedar, and walnut.
About the design of this board: I chose the stripe color combination to go from the top down; strongest to weakest. I chose the cherry nearest the paduk to have a swirl in the grain to visually remove it from the diagonals, while the cherry on the bottom was chosen to have a straight grain to assist the arrows. The thin walnut banding was designed to be visually carried diagonally from one vertical column to the next. And there is a visual effect of the paduk points being on a curve, even though they are in a straight line.
The basic concept of the build is to glue up a bunch of strips and cut the result at 45 degrees into another bunch of strips. Then re-glue these strips with some banding back into a board. One of the pictures shows a Chevron design using these strips for those who might not be familiar with that design.
A key (and the only important) measurement to this design is the relationship between the thicknesses of maple ‘diamonds’ to the width of the final strips. That ratio is 1 to 1.414, which is the relationship of a 45-90 degree right triangle. In this case, the width of the maple + the walnut banding is 1 inch for the first glue-up of the board. Then I crosscut the board so that the vertical strips + the walnut banding would be 1.4 inches. The whole reason for this is to cause the banding to connect with the next strip.
After the glue dried, I sanded the board flat so it would slide smoothly on the table saw. Then I crosscut the very large miter. I only have a standard type miter gauge, so for crosscutting something this large, I did it a little unconventionally. I turned the miter gauge around in its slot, placed the board against it, and slid it forward into the blade. I was able to make a very smooth cut. No big difference, but it just felt better.
Then I was able to cut the rest of the strips against the rip fence. This went really fast and very consistent. Note that I had the point of the glue-up facing toward me. This was so the notch on the back of my push stick would force the board against the fence.
Finally I trimmed the edges, glued the strips back together, sanded and oiled. Ta-da.
-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon