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This is a brief post on the second version vise quick release mechanism I have developed and installed on this vise
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/253546
And is more compact and and refined and suitable as a retrofit for many types of vise .
Watch the video here

I call this model the boxer as the action reminds me of a boxer engine .
Pictures
#1 the mechanism
#2 half nuts in lock position
#3 half nus in open position
#4 all the components
#5 the complete module
#6 the complete module side view

Questions and comments always welcome

Klaus

Gallery

Comments

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That is really slick, Klaus. I have a similar nut on a wood vice in my shop. It releases when you back it up and engages when you turn it forward. Very quick action to open it up!!

Cheers, Jim
 

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WOW!!!
 

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Every time I see this, it just blows my mind…

It's hard for me to SEE how you Change from Tightening the vise to letting it go & OPEN…

When I think I SEE it, I realize I don't… and spin my wheels again… to no end…

It is, by far, the best one I've seen, and SO SIMPLE I can't SEE how it works!

Very frustrating…

Thank you Kiefer for trying… You are the Greatest!
 

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Absolutely love the simplicity. It appears the magic is due to the magnets and confined movement space of the metal parts. Brilliant.
 

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Your work and effort is fantastic Klaus. I can see these being used in the future by many. Very simple yet very effective.
 

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I can always appreciate something created adhering to K.I.S.S. design principles. In this section my favorites are finished projects made of WOOD!
 

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This looks just the job for a quick release mechanism. Added to the enhancements list for my wooden vice.
Thanks for sharing.
Jim
 

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This is fantastic. Wondering if it would work with a wooden screw and nut?
 

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This is fantastic. Wondering if it would work with a wooden screw and nut?

- mark76wa
I think that the screw needs to be magnetic so that turning it makes the nut slide into our of position.
 

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What is the thickness of each piece of UHMW? Thanks, once again, for sharing your ingenuity with us.
 

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What is the thickness of each piece of UHMW? Thanks, once again, for sharing your ingenuity with us.

- Northwest29

Starting from the end with the bushing
5/8" - 3/4" - 1/2"
The only layer that is imported is the 3/4 because of the thickness of the nuts which are just under 3/4"the other two can be what ever thickness and good plywood (BALTIC BIRCH ) would also work for this .

Klaus
 

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I have quite a bit of 3/4" UHMW plastic known as Starboard. If anybody is interested in small pieces to make this, send me a PM and we'll work something out.
Jim
 

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This design is fantastic, the best I've seen anywhere. I built 2 of them from the videos you have on YouTube, and they work surprisingly well. The most important part was to get the proper magnets. I initially used some crap ones from Amazon and there was not enough pull to engage the nut, so I went online to K&J magnetics and got the N52 ones that are 3/4" round and 1/8" thick, which worked perfect. I built mine out of 1/2" baltic birch and had to laminate layers together to get the center block thick enough.
 

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jester… Very good information… Thank you!
 

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Just finished making some adjustments to one of these so it runs smoother. I made the center block .8 inches thick to reduce friction when the nut is engaging/disengaging. I also rotated the cutout about 30 degrees clockwise so the magnets would not pass close to the screws, in case anyone can't get their hands on nylon or stainless screws.



Another tip is to label your nut halves and keep them oriented on the same side of the block. Unless you work in a machine shop I doubt both halves will be perfectly identical, so keeping them on the side they were on when you marked the travel of the nut will ensure they operate like they should and don't jam up.
 

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It s hard for me to SEE how you Change from Tightening the vise to letting it go & OPEN…

When I think I SEE it, I realize I don t… and spin my wheels again… to no end…

- Joe Lyddon
The magnets want to stick to the center rod, so turning the rod counter clockwise to loosen the vise would push the magnets off the rod, based on the cutouts for the nuts. Turning it clockwise will pull the nuts back to the rod catching the threads. The idea is really ingenious, thanks to Klaus for sharing it with everybody!

Another tip I found helpful was to be sure the tips of the nuts are attracted to each other like in the picture below. If not they will be opposing and will not "grab" the rod tight enough. You would just need to flip one over if this was the case.

 

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Just finished making some adjustments to one of these so it runs smoother. I made the center block .8 inches thick to reduce friction when the nut is engaging/disengaging. I also rotated the cutout about 30 degrees clockwise so the magnets would not pass close to the screws, in case anyone can t get their hands on nylon or stainless screws.



Another tip is to label your nut halves and keep them oriented on the same side of the block. Unless you work in a machine shop I doubt both halves will be perfectly identical, so keeping them on the side they were on when you marked the travel of the nut will ensure they operate like they should and don t jam up.

- jester4977

Great job JESTER
Nice to see you make one and post it with some good comments on details and more in the reply to Joe.
I am happy to see the finished unit and not asking for a template for the cutout .
Here is the link to the how to video which will help with this .

Hope to see you using it a vise and post it .

Thanks
Klaus
 

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Thanks Klaus. Your videos were a great help for me to get these complete. The one on the right is my first attempt, which works, but I then made the one on the left that will go into a vise soon. I found that the block with the bushing needed to be thicker than 1/2" to give more support for holding the bushing. I had originally cut the holes for the nuts too large, and my center block was too thin causing friction on the nuts and magnets. All these were corrected in my second attempt.

 

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I've created a glass back panel so I can demonstrate how the nut movement works when you turn the rod.

 

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Jester… That is SO COOL… It does make a difference when you see it actually work!

I'd like to give it a TRY… would be nice to get it in a vise…

Thank you for your clearer video… LOOKS GREAT!

Before, I couldn't see how it unlocked… Very clever…

Is that nut cut with a hack saw or a grinding/cutting tool?
Looks like there is a little GAP there…

Have a good one.
 
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