|Project by swirt||posted 1086 days ago||9255 views||101 times favorited||33 comments|
(If you want to see the photos in-line with the explanation and a few more photos, it is best to read here www.timberframe-tools.com/tools/bandsaw-milling-sled)
This log milling sled will work in most bandsaws (I use mine on a 14” Craftsman). It is used for milling logs 1’-8’ long, (diameter limited by your bandsaw’s resaw capacity) into lumber. It requires no modification to your bandsaw, and simply rides in the miter slot. You may need to reinforce your roller stands (see photo) as the weight of the sled plus the log is usually enough to cause them to tip out of alignment with your bandsaw table. If your bandsaw table is flimsy, you may need to put a few wooden legs on it to make it so it does not deflect under the weight of the log and sled.
The sled is made from a 1”x8” x 8’ piece of pine with a runner screwed and glued to the side. The width of the pine should actually be just a little bit wider than the distance from the bandsaw blade to the near side of the miter slot. That way when you run the sled through the saw the first time, it will trim the edge to the exact fit. The runner must match the width of your miter slot and be less than the depth. I suggest making the runner out of something harder than pine since it will have a bit of wear. I made mine out of Doug Fir but Maple would probably be ideal.
The 3/4” pipe is attached to the sled using Jorgensen Pipe clamp saddles (I used 6 of them). The pipe clamp itself is a Jorgensen Deep Reach clamp. It is deeper than ordinary pipe clamps. The other noticeable difference is that the sliding portion of the clamp is the screw rather than the tail ordinary pipe clamps.
After running the sled through once to cut it to exact width, I use a combination square to draw in parallel lines from the cut edge. I did lines every half inch. These are used to align the log from end to end. Mark the center of the log on each end, then use the center marks and align them with one of the alignment lines on the sled. It doesn’t really matter which line, just that the same line is used for the front and end of the log.
Keep in mind that the thickness of the sled reduces your resaw capacity by just less than an inch. Also for safety sake, you have to be very aware that since the log is round, the blade will be exposed both above and below the log, so keep your hands clear. I use the tail piece on the clamp to push the sled, with the idea that if the clamp can’t hit the blade, neither can my hand. When cutting the log, keep a mallet and shim handy to drive into the end of the cut after you get a foot or so into it. That will help prevent the blade form binding.
Pine 1”x8” x 8’ (or just a touch wider than the distance from your miter slot to your blade)
1”x2” x 8’ hardwood for the runner (this will need to be reduced in size to fit your particular miter slot)
Screws and glue to secure the runner to the sled.
6’ or 8’ length of 3/4” pipe
3/4” Pipe clamp saddles www.highlandwoodworking.com/pipeclampsaddlespackof4.aspx
3/4” deep reach pipe clamp (I use Jorgensen because they are solid and made in the USA) www.highlandwoodworking.com/reversiblepipeclamphead.aspx
If you have a much larger bandsaw, you could use the extra deep reach clamp instead. (won’t work for my 14” bandsaw because the clamp will actually hit the blade) www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=4090
-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com