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butcher block/cutting board...

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Project by dakremer posted 06-18-2010 07:22 AM 2714 views 1 time favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I just made a table saw crosscut sled, so now i can FINALLY make multiple, quick, accurate, cuts – So of course I had to make my first end-grain cutting board!

This was only an experiment to see how easy it is. It is made out of a scrap pine 2X12. It will not be used as I used regular wood glue to glue it up, and I dont think that is very food safe. Also, its made out of pine, so i’m guessing that could lead to some bacteria problems. Anyways, just a practice board to see how easy it is. I”M HOOKED, and can’t wait to make a “real” one!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!





19 comments so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4138 posts in 1607 days


#1 posted 06-18-2010 07:36 AM

I think Titebond II and III are food safe.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View FordMike's profile

FordMike

155 posts in 2127 days


#2 posted 06-18-2010 07:43 AM

I don’t think what type glue used is the concern, most cutting boards are usually a non-porous hardwood, that once sealed wo’t absord what ever your cutting, congrats on your crosscut sled.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112096 posts in 2233 days


#3 posted 06-18-2010 07:59 AM

Beautiful board great job

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14947 posts in 1845 days


#4 posted 06-18-2010 11:58 AM

I use Titebond 3 only , being it’s water proof. I finish my boards with a 50/50 mix of Salad Bowl finsh ( general Finish’s ) and mineral spirits. I normally do atleast 6-8 coats which really make shem shing and help waterproof them as much as endgrain can be.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View michelletwo's profile

michelletwo

2256 posts in 1671 days


#5 posted 06-18-2010 12:54 PM

I don’t believe there is a glue on the market that you could eat that would be good for you…But I suppose that once in use the board & glue will both get on the knife & your food..but the quantity will be very small..So I thinbk the issue is very tiny…I never put any finish on my boards ..I do put wax on them for customers to see..after that it is up to them to keep up the wax or to oil, etc…

-- We call the destruction of replaceable human made items vandalism, while the destruction of irreplaceable natural resources is called development.

View KnotCurser's profile

KnotCurser

1835 posts in 1724 days


#6 posted 06-18-2010 12:56 PM

I’ll echo what everyone else already did – Titebond 3 is my only choice for cutting boards. Mineral oil or Salad bowl finish for final treatment.

I’m sure you know that only hardwoods should be used for cuttingboards. That is a GREAT practice board though! Try cutting that thing again the other way, flipping every other piece and re-gluing them for an even funkier looking board! Good luck, now you are hooked! ;-)

-bob

-- Robert Rhoades WoodWorks / Email: rrww@rhoadesclan.com / www.rhoadesclan.com

View jockmike2's profile

jockmike2

10635 posts in 2902 days


#7 posted 06-18-2010 01:48 PM

Very pretty board, and unusual grain.

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4819 posts in 2538 days


#8 posted 06-18-2010 02:10 PM

You are hooked now.

I use TBIII, and it works very well for me. I tried several finishes and have landed on Howard Butcher Block Conditioner. It is a combo of oils and wax. It is cheap and you can buy it at Home Depot. I really really like it. I give a bottle to the recipients of my boards for periodic re-applies. It keeps the boards looking really nice.

Good job,
Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2605 posts in 1706 days


#9 posted 06-18-2010 03:41 PM

Titebond III here. And I’m very happy with it.

They also have a dark Titebond II if you ever need it for all dark wood, such as an all-walnut board. I have no experience using it, but before Titebond III came out, a lot of people used Titebond II on their boards. Titebond III just stands up to water better than Titebond II. Hopefully they’ll make a dark Titebond III soon.

I’ve made one end grain board so far, and just last night glued-up a non-end grain board for a charity auction coming up in a couple/few weeks. I’m actually headed down to the basement to take a picture or two and update the blog on that project. I also used Titebond III on this board, and will continue to use it on any future boards I make, whether end grain, edge grain, or face grain.

I will be using mineral oil and then possibly a final coat of mineral oil/beeswax on the above board, plus a couple of others I plan on making for the auction. I used Salad Bowl Finish on my end-grain board and it turned out OK. Any water does bead up like crazy, but I’m going to make another end grain board and just use mineral oil and wax on it for comparison purposes out of the same hard maple and walnut combo. so I can compare apples to apples with the two different finishes on the same wood. I will be using Titebond III on this future end grain board as well.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View TroutGuy's profile

TroutGuy

223 posts in 2367 days


#10 posted 06-18-2010 06:07 PM

I use Roo Super on mine and haven’t had any problems. I like it better than Titebond because it dries clear, so it can be used with most any species.

For finishing, I use a homemade mix of food grade mineral oil and beeswax (6:1 by weight). For the first couple of coats, I warm the mix in the microwave, just enough to re-liquify it. Then I apply several more coats in ‘paste form’. Buff it up with an old t-shirt and it’s done.

-- There is nothing in the world more dangerous, than a woodworker who knows how to read a micrometer...

View TreeBones's profile

TreeBones

1823 posts in 2679 days


#11 posted 06-19-2010 06:32 PM

Great looking project. Local code here prohibits pine from being used on kitchen counter tops because of the bacteria problem. Well done.

-- Ron, Twain Harte, Ca. Portable on site Sawmill Service http://westcoastlands.net/Sawmill.html http://westcoastlands.net/SawBucks2/phpBB3 http://www.portablesawmill.info

View Mary Anne's profile

Mary Anne

1057 posts in 1864 days


#12 posted 06-19-2010 07:02 PM

Another vote for waterproof TB III. I suggest you buy the LARGE size… making boards is fun and addictive!
You are off to a good start.

View degoose's profile

degoose

7013 posts in 2011 days


#13 posted 06-21-2010 08:45 AM

Gallon containers are cheaper… TB III and mineral Oil… both are food safe and FDA approved…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View ElmoSr's profile

ElmoSr

240 posts in 1682 days


#14 posted 06-24-2010 02:09 PM

Ken do you really use mineral spirits??? i use titebond III and mineral oil

-- ElmoSr,Ga. Life is Hard by the Yard,,,But a Cinch by the Inch

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2605 posts in 1706 days


#15 posted 06-24-2010 03:27 PM

ElmoSr,

I think Ken was referring to the fact that he thins the Salad Bowl Finish with mineral spirits in an attempt to get it to absorb or soak farther in to the board. From what I noticed on the end grain cutting board I made a short time back and finished with Salad Bowl Finish, you definitely need to thin the stuff to at least 50/50 with MS in order to really get it down into the wood. So yes, I believe he meant to say mineral spirits in that particular case.

My next board will be finished with mineral oil, or mineral oil/beeswax to see how it compares to the salad bowl finish.

Just two different ways to finish the board, that’s all.

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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