| Project by Peter O | posted 737 days ago | 6584 views | 76 times favorited | 35 comments | ![]() |
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I put this together today. In the past when I’ve used the router to cut a pattern, I’ve either attached the pattern to the workpiece with double-stick tape, or I’ve built an oversize pattern with a toggle clamp so that the pattern becomes a jig. Double-stick isn’t cheap, and can leave gummy stuff, and building a custom jig for every part results in a lot of jigs hanging around never to be used again. I needed to do some pattern routing today, and thought it was time to do it differently!
This jig allows me to clamp the pattern and workpiece together, and the jig can be used for any number of different patterns. The pattern can go above or below the workpiece, depending on which kind of bit I’m using. I put two handles on it for good control, and left the ends open so pattern and workpiece length wouldn’t be restricted. I think it should also work for holding small pieces during routing operations.
The handles, cams, and fence are oak. The baseplate is 1/4” ply and can be replaced when damaged. The jig is 12” long.
[EDIT] Forgot to mention … a series of holes is drilled in the fence to raise and lower the cams so the jig will accept different thicknesses of stock/templates.
—————PLAN ADDED 11/14/2007—————
There seemed to be a lot of interest in this jig, so I’m putting up a few drawings and instructions to help along anyone who decides to build one. You may want to adjust the size of the jig based on the templates you usually use. I tried to duplicate my table saw throat plate and found that my jig was a little too long.
First things first -
Hardware! I’ve had no end of frustration discovering that the hardware I had planned to use for a project was not in my shop and the hardware store was fresh out. For any project – find your hardware first! I used machine screws with wing nuts for the cam pivots and wood screws for assembly.
Construction –
Handles (2): The handles just need to be a place to hold on and they need to set the fence at 90 degrees to the base. A couple of triangles would work, but I like to make my jigs comfortable to hold and use. I’ve found this shape comfortable for my smallish hand:
If your hands are largish, you could increase the 3¾” and 4¼” horizontal measurements and the 2.125” radius by ¼” or so. I made my handles out of 3/4” oak, but have used ply and melamine in the past. MDF might work, but I don’t know how well it will hold the screws. If you use wood, the grain should be oriented horizontally. Roundover both sides of the finger hole and the grip area.
Cam levers (1 LH, 1 RH): Cams can be made with an increasing radius, but I just make mine round and drill the pivot hole off-center.
The cams on my jig are 3/4” oak, but ply will work fine. Melamine and MDF are not up to this task! Wood grain should be oriented along the length of the cam lever. Drill the pivot hole so the bolt fits snug – too much slop and the cams won’t stay tight against the workpiece. Countersink the hole for the bolt head. When countersinking, the hole should be right of center for one cam and left of center for the other cam – this will give you one RH and one LH cam.
Fence: I used 1/2” oak, but ply or melamine should be fine.
Again, drill the holes so the bolts will fit snug. By staggering the holes, you get a pretty fine adjustment for just about any thickness of material.
Base: 8” x 12” x 1/4” ply. This base plate is sacraficial – it will get cut up and chewed up as you use the jig. When it isn’t providing the necessary support any more, just cut another one.
Assembly -
Handles to Fence: Clamp the handles against the fence one inch from each end of the fence. Drill and countersink two holes through the fence into each handle and insert the woodscrews (see diagram below).
Fence to Base: Turn the base plate upside down and set the handle/fence assembly on the inverted base. Trace the outline of the handle/fence assembly onto the bottom of the base. Turn the base over and clamp the handle/fence assembly to the base. Using the lines you just traced, locate and countersink one hole into each handle and two holes into the fence taking care to avoid the screws that are holding the handles to the fence.
Cams to Fence: Pass the machine screws through the cams and through the fence, and secure them with the wing nuts. By switching the cams from side to side, you can make them tighten either by lifting by pressing down the handles.
I hope this is clear, but if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --































35 comments so far
David
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1982 posts in 1017 days
posted 737 days ago
Peter -
Very nice! Great design.
-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com
Max
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13972 posts in 1152 days
posted 737 days ago
That is pretty slick. I like it….
-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT
ChrisBabayco
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65 posts in 806 days
posted 737 days ago
That is a great jig! Definitely something to remember.
Thos. Angle
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4015 posts in 841 days
posted 737 days ago
Great Idea, Peter, I’ve been meaning to build one of these and didn’t know quite how I wanted it. This looks like a good solution. Thanks. It makes getting those arch top doors done easier and quicker than the tape. Not to mention easier to register each time.
-- Thos. Angle
CharlieM1958
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7466 posts in 1097 days
posted 737 days ago
Nice jig. I may have to steal that one.
-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"
mot
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4901 posts in 915 days
posted 737 days ago
Yup…gonna have to add this one to my list! Nice
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
dennis mitchell
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3785 posts in 1193 days
posted 737 days ago
Thanks for the edit…nice jig!
-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com
Mark Mazzo
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343 posts in 791 days
posted 737 days ago
Peter,
Great idea for this jig. I remember seeing an older video of Frank Klaus doing tenons with a jig on the table saw where he had cams as clamping mechanisms on the jig. Great solution to the pricey double-stick tape.
-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com
cckeele
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76 posts in 751 days
posted 737 days ago
Very well executed. Definately looks like it will give you very good control over the workpiece and still remain safe. Job well done sir.
-- All donations should be made out to me and in the form of wood or tools ~Chris
USCJeff
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899 posts in 947 days
posted 737 days ago
Love it, I use a similar jig for bandsawing with a template. I always have to clean it up with a router, so maybe your jig will do both at the same time. Worth a shot. Nicely done.
-- Jeff, South Carolina
Todd A. Clippinger
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5590 posts in 978 days
posted 736 days ago
That looks like a great jig. Nice looking and added safety, another sign you are an “American Craftsman.”
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
Andy
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562 posts in 787 days
posted 736 days ago
Great idea,will need to make one for a project I will be doing soon.
-- " If I can make it,so can you" Andy in Oregon
cajunpen
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5970 posts in 944 days
posted 726 days ago
Great idea – thanks for sharing it.
-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/
jerryw
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96 posts in 794 days
posted 725 days ago
Thanks for adding the plans. I had already made one of the jigs to use on my router tables. it worked great first time and every time. Thanks again for sharing with us.
-- jerryw-wva.
Dick, & Barb Cain
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6991 posts in 1178 days
posted 725 days ago
Thanks for sharing a great jig!!
-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1
Douglas Bordner
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3415 posts in 942 days
posted 724 days ago
Very conscientious of you to add the plan and notify of the update, Peter. Thanks for posting this, now I have no excuse not to gin one up. ;^D
-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.
bryano
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546 posts in 812 days
posted 724 days ago
Im with Douglas. will build one this weekend.
-- bryano
porrapai
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10 posts in 761 days
posted 718 days ago
Peter
Great Idea.
Some of us aren’t selfish. Thanks for sharing.
I like the clear way you have made your statement.
Carlos Castanheira
porrapai
porrapai@gmail.com
South Africa
-- carlos castanheira, South Africa
shaun
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361 posts in 784 days
posted 718 days ago
Oh ya, this is getting added to the “to do” list. Thanks for sharing Peter.
-- I've cut that board three times and it's still too short!
Bob #2
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2991 posts in 900 days
posted 718 days ago
Good one Peter.
One jig for several tasks is really getting important around here.
I’ll make one up shortly.
Thanks
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
MsDebbieP
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14096 posts in 1039 days
posted 718 days ago
There has been lot of talk about jigs lately and, not ever having seen one or used one, I’m sure there are tips and tricks to process behind the finished product and to using them.
This would be a great blog discussion as a resource for people like me with limited skills/experience.
-- ~ Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)
LJ
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100 posts in 946 days
posted 703 days ago
Peter, A nicely designed jig. I’m not bashful… I’ll make it and put it to plenty good use. Thanks for sharing!
-- Peace, LJ http://beam.to/4goldens.org
Karson
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25274 posts in 1279 days
posted 703 days ago
Great Jig Peter. Nice design and thanks for posting this.
-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †
Hawgnutz
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522 posts in 955 days
posted 703 days ago
Very nice jig, Peter! I will have to make one for my pattern routing. I get tired of peeling (sometimes) the double-sided tape and fionding it left a sticky residue behind.
Another jig on my to-do-list!
God Bless,
Hawg
-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards
gbvinc
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526 posts in 825 days
posted 703 days ago
Nice Peter. Thanks!
Jiri Parkman
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602 posts in 691 days
posted 669 days ago
Very nice jig. Enjoy it.
-- Jiri
Dusty56
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3401 posts in 566 days
posted 475 days ago
Any more tune ups to the jig since you posted it last ? Looks like a great idea : ) thank you very much !
-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .
jeanmarc
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1750 posts in 595 days
posted 463 days ago
Great Idea..Nice jig.
-- jeanmarc manosque france
Peter O
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1005 posts in 753 days
posted 428 days ago
Hey, Dusty – one change I would recommend: make the diameter of the cams larger. Leave the pivot hole about ½” off-center, but make the radius of the cam more like 2”. My cams tended to loosen up at the 1” radius, but no problem at the larger radius.
-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --
mleedix
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54 posts in 429 days
posted 418 days ago
Very nice Jig. Thanks for sharing.
-- - Michael [..for God's glory." 2 Cor. 10:31] Over 300000 species of trees, yet we take the credit for their beauty...
tooldad
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446 posts in 593 days
posted 284 days ago
Thanks for the plans. This jig is not only functional but safer. We build adirondack chairs as a mass production unit in our general shop class. we use the router to make the legs and arms from a pattern. This will increase the safety aspect of that operation. Thanks again.
John Gray
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1722 posts in 764 days
posted 284 days ago
THANKS, I favorited it.
-- Only the Shadow knows....................
cabinetmaster
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7999 posts in 437 days
posted 267 days ago
Thanks for the plans. I needed of these.
-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps
Chris
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300 posts in 236 days
posted 229 days ago
I just tripped over this because of your post on the ‘jigs’ thread. I absolutely need this jig and didn’t even know it. I’ve been doing the double sided tape thing and grumbling. The benefit of that post is that I’ve found this jig, need it, but never would have been looking for it (maybe not never, but I can grumble for a long time!).
-- Chris
PurpLev
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2675 posts in 527 days
posted 229 days ago
Splendid Jig indeed! thanks for the post. one thing that is possible to do, is maybe set some tracks on the base of the jig to allow for the fence to move back/forth? which will accomodate different depths of patterns? (or one could make a couple of those with common depth fences I guess) – just an idea. something similar to the holes you setup for the holddown clamps – but on the base for the fence to be attached with.
-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.