Wide miter fence for shooting board

I’ve not made a shooting board for mitering in the direction yours does, just one for picture frame miters. I’ve been looking at the donkey ear style but really like what you have done. Building in adjustability sounds like a very good idea, something to keep in mind when I build mine. Thanks for the post.

-- There's no such thing as mistakes, just design changes.

Very nice, that is something on my list of ‘must have’ jigs… you’ll get a lot of use out of it! That FLWoodRat dude is a great guy isn’t he!

-- Scott, Colorado

He is a prince among rodents, err men. :) LOL!

Did some more test miters last night. A set of 4 to make a box. I need just a poofteenth more adjustment on the angle and it will be dead on. Angle was just ever so slightly less than 45, enough that I couldn’t detect it until I’d gotten all the way round the box and could see just a smidgeon of daylight in the last miter.

@velo_tom -
I considered making the donkey’s ear style but the more I thought about it, the more complicated any adjustment mechanism became. For this one, I could have left out the leveler screws and just use blue tape and it would work as well

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

“Thanks for your reply to my post. This sled looks like the perfect solution for making small boxes. Just one question what type and size plain would you recommend?

You can use pretty much any bench or block plane with a shooting board.

For me I get my best results from the heaviest planes I have, usually a #7 no-name copy. For smaller pieces I use a #4.

Some people really like the bevel up jacks (#62) and jointers from LV and LN and Stanley (if you can find a vintage one without a cracked sole) for shooting edges. Or you could go all out and get a #9 (new or used). Even a little 60-1/2 works fine for small stuff. And I know some people who use old woodies for their shooting boards.

The momentum I can build up with the heavy #7 powers through longer edges easily.

Sharp blades make all the difference. And remember to check that the blade is perpendicular to the workpiece, you can use the lateral adjuster to tweak this for iron body planes. So long as you can adjust the blade to be perpendicular it isn’t so important that the sole and side of the plane be at a perfect right angle.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

Thanks for all your help.

great looking shooting board
thank´s for sharing the idea
about making it adjustable

Dennis