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Wide miter fence for shooting board

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Project by rwyoung posted 05-12-2010 06:42 AM 4987 views 6 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Well, getting ready to prototype another small box to be constructed all with hand tools. This one is for a demo session at the Kansas City Woodworkers Guild open house in June.

A while back FLWoodRat paid me in some teak boards for “renting” a custom beading router bit used on a blanket chest project. I’ve been sitting on the teak thinking about what to make with it. I decided it would be fun to make a little pencil box. I’m still working on some of the design issues but in the meanwhile I also decided that I’d use that box build as a live demo at the guild’s open house.

One idea I had was to mitre all the corners for the box. By hand the “easy” way to get a perfect miter is with a shooting board and fence. This fence is to make the wide miters. Its made from scrap 3/4” cherry ply and a few other odds-and-ends. It clamps onto the right angle fence of my shooting board.

The registration fence is adjustable for square and the whole appliance itself can be tilted using little leveler feet I made with some #10 screws on its underside. Likewise, it can be microadjusted into and away from the regular shooting board fence with another pair of #10 screws. These adjustments let me tweak it into making a perfect miter.

Remember, if you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable. :)

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.





7 comments so far

View velo_tom's profile

velo_tom

118 posts in 1763 days


#1 posted 05-12-2010 12:25 PM

I’ve not made a shooting board for mitering in the direction yours does, just one for picture frame miters. I’ve been looking at the donkey ear style but really like what you have done. Building in adjustability sounds like a very good idea, something to keep in mind when I build mine. Thanks for the post.

-- There's no such thing as mistakes, just design changes.

View SwedishIron's profile

SwedishIron

142 posts in 2388 days


#2 posted 05-12-2010 05:32 PM

Very nice, that is something on my list of ‘must have’ jigs… you’ll get a lot of use out of it! That FLWoodRat dude is a great guy isn’t he!

-- Scott, Colorado

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

369 posts in 2219 days


#3 posted 05-12-2010 06:24 PM

He is a prince among rodents, err men. :) LOL!

Did some more test miters last night. A set of 4 to make a box. I need just a poofteenth more adjustment on the angle and it will be dead on. Angle was just ever so slightly less than 45, enough that I couldn’t detect it until I’d gotten all the way round the box and could see just a smidgeon of daylight in the last miter.

@velo_tom -
I considered making the donkey’s ear style but the more I thought about it, the more complicated any adjustment mechanism became. For this one, I could have left out the leveler screws and just use blue tape and it would work as well

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View Chauncey's profile

Chauncey

17 posts in 1685 days


#4 posted 05-12-2010 06:46 PM

Thanks for your reply to my post. This sled looks like the perfect solution for making small boxes. Just one question what type and size plain would you recommend?

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

369 posts in 2219 days


#5 posted 05-12-2010 06:58 PM

You can use pretty much any bench or block plane with a shooting board.

For me I get my best results from the heaviest planes I have, usually a #7 no-name copy. For smaller pieces I use a #4.

Some people really like the bevel up jacks (#62) and jointers from LV and LN and Stanley (if you can find a vintage one without a cracked sole) for shooting edges. Or you could go all out and get a #9 (new or used). Even a little 60-1/2 works fine for small stuff. And I know some people who use old woodies for their shooting boards.

The momentum I can build up with the heavy #7 powers through longer edges easily.

Sharp blades make all the difference. And remember to check that the blade is perpendicular to the workpiece, you can use the lateral adjuster to tweak this for iron body planes. So long as you can adjust the blade to be perpendicular it isn’t so important that the sole and side of the plane be at a perfect right angle.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View Chauncey's profile

Chauncey

17 posts in 1685 days


#6 posted 05-12-2010 07:05 PM

Thanks for all your help.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1862 days


#7 posted 05-15-2010 11:06 PM

great looking shooting board
thank´s for sharing the idea
about making it adjustable

Dennis

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