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Shopmade Tablesaw Splitters

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Project by Bricofleur posted 1561 days ago 3835 views 14 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Shopmade Tablesaw Splitters
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Since I don’t use the original blade guard and splitter of my tablesaw, I made my own splitters to get the most safety as possible. As shown on the photo, my shopmade splitters are made from pieces of steel I bought at my local hardware store for about $0.50 each. I drill a hole to fit the bolt of my tablesaw then I cut with a hacksaw and file a lateral slot for fast and easy installation without removing the bolt. The front of the splitters are chamfered so the stock won’t catch when feeding. I have a 1/8” splitter for my regular combination saw blade, one thinner for my thin kerf blade and a short splitter to use with my dado set blades.

They are a must to prevent from any kickbackl when not using the original blade guard. Safety first, right?

You can admire them on my website also.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. -- http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com





9 comments so far

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3149 posts in 2429 days


#1 posted 1561 days ago

Nice work Serge on a very important element of safety. Might be the best 50 cent purchase any shop could make. I hope that other take your lead because kickback smarts and hurt and is very costly….thanks for sharing Blkcherry

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2603 posts in 1656 days


#2 posted 1561 days ago

This looks like a nice solution, and an affordable one at that.

I need to install a splitter on my tablesaw. I might end up trying your method, but I want to try the old drill bit trick first. I just bought a drill press, so I think I’ll use a 1/8” drill bit and line that up with the slit that the saw blade cut through my ZCI, then slide the insert over, change the 1/8” bit out for a 3/32” bit, drill a hole behind the blade slot, then use an old 3/32” bit upside down in the new hole I just drilled.

Sorry to hijack your thread there.

I do have a question though: It looks like everything lines up the way you’ve done this, but it’s hard to tell from a picture. Have your measured any difference this way on where the saw blade is, versus where the splitter sits? I’m just thinking that since your blade is 1/8” and the splitter is also 1/8”, you don’t have much room for error. I know you said the front of the splitter is chamfered though, so I guess that should help correct any minor differences (say, a few 1/1000s of an inch).

Thanks for posting this. It’s a nice alternative, and as you said, safety first!

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

View mikethetermite's profile

mikethetermite

422 posts in 1872 days


#3 posted 1561 days ago

Thanks for sharing your great ideas.

-- Mike The Termite ~~~~~ Working safely may get old, but so do those who practice it.

View Bricofleur's profile

Bricofleur

1118 posts in 1799 days


#4 posted 1561 days ago

Johnathan,

The splitter holder on my Delta contractor saw has a side adjustment feature. If you look closely at the picture you will see the cap screw (in line with the saw blade and the splitter – towards the front of the saw) that sets the side adjustment. If you save the picture on your computer and enlarge it you will be able to see the cap screw and the triangular support that can be moved up and down for latteral adjustments.

Hope this can help.

By the way, I remember having seen the drill bit tip somewhere. I remember that you must make the kerf first in the throat plate of the table saw, then you drop the side of the throat plate againt the fence of your drill press and you align the drill bit with the kerf and lock the fence, then move the throat plate sideway to drill the 1/8’’ hole, which should end up at the appropriate distance in line with the kerf. But here there is no latteral adjustment. Your idea of using a 3/32” drill bit should be the answer.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

PS: No problem about hijacking. We’re here to share, right?

-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. -- http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

View bigike's profile

bigike

4031 posts in 1894 days


#5 posted 1561 days ago

very nice idea, simple and cheap i love it.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View DaveInMontana's profile

DaveInMontana

23 posts in 1972 days


#6 posted 1561 days ago

I like it. I have been running without the blade guard and always worry about kickback. I just bought a milling machine and this will give me some practice learning how to use it and make me safer! Thanks for the tip.

View Joe's profile

Joe

185 posts in 1999 days


#7 posted 1560 days ago

Got to love it. I made one couple years back for my old TS. It worked great but I had to do allot of hand sanding to get it the same kerf as the blade.

-- Senior Chief

View Bricofleur's profile

Bricofleur

1118 posts in 1799 days


#8 posted 1560 days ago

Thank you Autumn and thanks for the link to the video. It was worth seeing it. Brrrr!

I went a step further and made a shallow splitter that I use when ripping grooves and rabbets. See 4th picture on this page of my website. Here the splitter keeps the stock safely against the rip fence, but staying whitin the groove. Note that it must be in straight line with the right side of the blade if the rip fence is to the right, and vise versa.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. -- http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

View WistysWoodWorkingWonders's profile

WistysWoodWorkingWonders

11908 posts in 1762 days


#9 posted 1557 days ago

nice work… something I need to build for mine…

-- New Project = New Tool... it's just the way it is, don't fight it... :)

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