|Project by mummykicks||posted 03-12-2017 02:50 AM||371 views||1 time favorited||4 comments|
My daughter just graduated college and wanted mirrored night stands and a dresser along with a pilllow type headboard.
Built the headboard out of a 1/2” sheet of ply and created a bunch of boxes that screwed together with beveled edges. She got some matress foam from wallmart and some batting and we cut the fabric and stapled it.
First attempt was to pull it tight, but that didn’t work well at all, it has to be just barely tight to work. Trimmed with 3/4 oak hardwood.
They can be unscrewed to replace a torn piece and then screwed back together.
The dresser/night stands are 3/4 oak ply trimmed with oak and everything is stained with general finishes cranberry red (which I can’t find anymore) with java after that on top, shellac, and wax. The red comes through the black here and there and makes for a nice effect. Night stands have a ‘hidden’ drawer at the bottom, and I used real drawer slides for the build. I was going to put a hidden drawer under the dresser, but it sagged too much in the middle and needed support. That dresser weighs about 200lbs fully loaded I think…
The dresser is doweled and pocket screwed together, no glue. I cut the dowels from dowel stock and glued them into the edge hole pieces. Dowels and pocket screws make a great joint, the dowels keep everything aligned and provide lateral strength and the pocket screws provide tension. I wasn’t sure if I’d be moving this thing alone, so wanted to be able to break it down just in case, given that it was going up a flight of stairs.
The mirrored fronts were a bit of a challenge. First attempt was 1/8” stuff cut to size at Lowes and glued to the drawer front with loctite pl construction adhesive. It was fine for a while but then cracked, first just the coating on the glass, then the glass itself on a couple of the drawers. The wood obviously expanded and the PL is just too rigid.
I was going to try more glass but with contact cement in the hopes it would give a bit, but Lowes had issues cutting it since one of my dims was 5/8” under 36” – the width of the mirror sheet – and they had issues with their glass cutter.
The mirror stock from Lowes is cheap enough, but I would enclose it with a wood frame and not glue it if I were to go that route. My daughter wanted the naked edge look, so that wasn’t an option.
Next attempt was 1/8” acrylic mirror from HD which was expensive, but the best solution. I cut it on the tablesaw, didn’t think it would be conductive until my sawstop brake engaged about 8” into the first cut, sigh. New brake, new blade and other than being $150 poorer none the worse for wear.
It cuts fine with a high tooth count cross cut blade (diablo is what I used) but you can’t take narrow cuts with it or it chatters BADLY. I ripped it on the table saw and cut it to width on the miter saw, clamping it down on both sides of the blade with some plywood to distribute the clamping force and get it clamped right up near the blade. That stuff gets everywhere, and dust collection just doesn’t work as good. As long as you don’t try to push it through really fast it leave a very good edge.
I used contact cement to bond the acrylic to the drawer front, and then screwed that to the drawer. The drawers are all 3/4 ply sides and 1/2” ply everything else, dado’d and glued/nailed together. I bought the ryobi one cordless nail gun and am really happy with it, since I don’t have or want compressed air tools.
I stained the edges of the acrylic, and it took a couple of coats but worked OK. Fall back plan is plasti-dip, but with the acrylic I can’t trim the edge with a razor like I could with the glass. The shellac seemed to seal it well and I think It will work long term.