Jointer Plane Fence.

That looks like a very useful accessory, Tom.

I’m glad I’m not the only one who looks back on earlier projects and can’t always remember exactly what methods I used. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

That a great modification to a working man’s tool.

Good design

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Great fence, Tom! I can see where it would all but eliminate sloping jointed edges. Gonna make one from your design, if you won’t mind. There is just something pleasing in using a p[lane and watch the wood sliver and curl of the breaker!

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

Very nice Tom. Functional and good looking. I’ve only seen a few origianl iron versions of this and I am not sure they would work as well as this.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I see you took the time and trouble to add the pleasing curve at the top. Just the sort of fine workmanship I associate with Thomas Angle. Good show, Partner.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

The simple ideas are the best – Nice one to remember

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Thanks for the nice words, fellas. If you build one of these, you will still have to hold on to it to keep the plane in the right place. I just wrap my hand around it like I would if I was jointing an edge without it. That way you keep it in register. You can bump the magnets loose if you are not careful. The curve at the top matches the shape of the plane side panel so you can have a better hold. Of course, if you make a mistake it is only the thickness of a shaving . I start an edge with a #5 jack and plane by eye to get it close then bring out the #7 and start finishing and squareing. I keep a try square handy and check as soon as I get a shaving that runs the full length of the board. Recently I needed a piece of counter edge that was 11 feet long. That doesn’t work on the jointer. I started with a 14 foot long piece of Sapele 10 inches wide. I clamped it in he vise and started walking. First with the #5 and then then the #7. It took about 15 minutes to walk a straight edge on the board. We then moved to the table saw so we could run the 14 foot board and ripped a 2 inch piece. It took two of us. Then we ran it through the planer to 3/4 inch thickness. We then ripped it again to 1 1/2 inches for the counter edge band. This little tool gets used any time I need to joint a board that is over 30 inches long. A 6 inch jointer is just too short. The ones Stanley made are adjustable and hook onto the plane with screws. They are more solid but must be set each time because they are adjustable. The Veritas version works like mine. The Stanley’s are going for upward of $80 and the Veritas from Lee Valley is in the $45 range. Some version of these fences is the only real way to assure you have a square edge without checking with the square every few seconds.

Tom

-- Thos. Angle

Tom;

A perfect example of necessity being the mother of inventions.

Great idea, yet as is often the case with great ideas, so simple.

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Thanks a lot for posting this, Tom. I have seen you reference this in some earlier posts and wanted to ask you how you keep your boards at 90 degrees with a hand plane. So this is the handmade accessory that does it.

Great! I’ll be making mine soon.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

you guys have inspired me to drag them old planes down and sharpen the irons on them and give them a go. I have five , a couple of block planes thru a joiner plane that was my grandfathers. I use the block planes daily, and have most of my career, them young guy use to make fun of me for carrying one till they noticed I wasn’t running back to the saw to adjust my miters all the time and my joints always looked nice and tight. I have a couple that I would love to make myself like a infill and rabbit plane. I hope to do at lease one of those this winter. well thanks for the inspiration…..Joey

-- Joey~~Sabina, Ohio http://sleepydogwoodworking.blogspot.com/

Joey, check out Phil's work if you have not see it.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I just saw a Stanley version of this on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stanley-No-386-Jointer-Guage-Use-with-Stanley-Plane_W0QQitemZ300156177971QQihZ020QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Yeah, Wayne, they’re fairly common. They just bring a lot of money for what they are. They do work well. The one Veritas has is magnetic like mine. The old ones almost need a dedicated #7 plane but they will make any angle you want.

-- Thos. Angle

I’ve only seen a few. I will have to keep my eyes open. Having a dedicated #7 is ok, I have several.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I keep looking as well but the price is quite a lot for what you get. I would prefer to get one that I can get my hands on first. Because they have so many moving parts I’m concerned that they might come bent in the wrong place or with stripped screws, etc. It is also possible to flip the guide up and use the plane as usual.It would be kind of neat to plane a 30 degree edge. The problem is keeping it even all across the edge. It would take a lot of patience and care to get it right. Cross grain would be a rip.

-- Thos. Angle

great idea

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon