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Walnut Bar

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Project by Ryan Corrigan posted 02-11-2010 11:48 PM 4124 views 1 time favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This bar is in downtown Lexington near UK’s campus. It is 21’ long and 30” wide. Natural edge walnut slabs seamed together with splines. It was a real pain to transport. It is a poured System Three two part finish and I hate doing that because I never get out all of the bubbles and then have to repair them after the fact. I don’t want another job like this one that’s for sure. Restaurant is Mellow Mushroom for you local Jocks.

-- Ryan Corrigan Sadieville, KY http://www.CelticCrossWood.com





16 comments so far

View Moffett77's profile

Moffett77

32 posts in 1724 days


#1 posted 02-11-2010 11:56 PM

That looks like a damn fine one to belly up to. Nice work

-- Moffett, Sacramento CA

View ohwoodeye's profile

ohwoodeye

1059 posts in 1850 days


#2 posted 02-12-2010 12:07 AM

Too pretty to set my drink on…....I would just have to chug it really fast and hand the glass back to the bartender. Hmmmmmm, where is this restaurant again?

-- Directions are just the Manufacturer's opinion on how something should be assembled. ----Mike, Waukesha, WI

View cedarcanoeman's profile

cedarcanoeman

46 posts in 1791 days


#3 posted 02-12-2010 12:21 AM

I would drink a beer at that bar anyday. I love this top. I have been asked to build a bar top out of cedar and am curios about a high quality finish. I have not used system 3, any suggestions on any other quality bar top finishes?

-- Lance, southwest Missouri, cmkld@yahoo.com

View Cozmo35's profile

Cozmo35

2198 posts in 1733 days


#4 posted 02-12-2010 01:01 AM

I’d belly up to that bar anyday!

-- If you don't work, you don't eat!.....Garland, TX

View RexMcKinnon's profile

RexMcKinnon

2593 posts in 1892 days


#5 posted 02-12-2010 01:02 AM

Now that’s a bar top!

-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112367 posts in 2274 days


#6 posted 02-12-2010 01:09 AM

Why were the skimping on thin material NOTWow what a bar fantabulous.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View ropie's profile

ropie

3 posts in 1741 days


#7 posted 02-12-2010 02:43 AM

I am new to this site and have to say that there is a lot of material for future projects here. That bartop is excellent workmanship. I work at a custom table top manufacturer and we build and install bars also. When using two part epoxy systems you will have issues with bubbles. The only way we have been able to at least rid ourselves of the majority of bubbles and or haze from micro bubbles is to utilize thin pours (50 square feet per gallon) until there are a minimum of bubbling, then go to a medium pour (20-25 spquare feet per gallon), then if everything is good do a final pour (15 square feet per gallon).. We have had good luck with Polytex by B.D. Classic out of California for the starter coats and then use their standard blends for the final coats and torch the hell out of the epoxy for the first 15 minutes of application.

View SignWave's profile

SignWave

135 posts in 1732 days


#8 posted 02-12-2010 03:09 AM

That’s making me thirsty…

Very nice work.

View WistysWoodWorkingWonders's profile

WistysWoodWorkingWonders

11908 posts in 1854 days


#9 posted 02-12-2010 03:19 AM

that’s a great looking bar top… wish I had a bar big enough to house something like that…. hmmmm, time to build a bigger house? great job…

-- New Project = New Tool... it's just the way it is, don't fight it... :)

View dfdye's profile

dfdye

372 posts in 1734 days


#10 posted 02-12-2010 05:48 AM

That may have been a pain, but it looks amazing. Thanks for sharing.

-- David from Indiana --

View swied's profile

swied

74 posts in 2459 days


#11 posted 02-12-2010 08:00 PM

Try using a heat gun to get rid of the bubbles while the epoxy is still wet. Make sure you babysit the piece until the epoxy sets. As soon as you walk away you’ll get more bubbles. You can get rid of the blush by using a surfacing agent. I use an ultra clear expoxy called Resin Research, which was designed for use on surfboards. They sell a surfacing agent with it called Additive F. It eliminates the blush, and greatly improves sandability. You can start sanding the next day.

-- Scott, San Diego

View Ryan Corrigan's profile

Ryan Corrigan

68 posts in 2780 days


#12 posted 02-13-2010 02:52 AM

Thanks Scott I’ll try that next time. I use a propane torch as recommended be the manufacturer but the length of this peace made it nearly impossible to get all of the bubbles out and it take three days to dry completely before any surfacing. Next day would be nice.
Ryan

-- Ryan Corrigan Sadieville, KY http://www.CelticCrossWood.com

View swied's profile

swied

74 posts in 2459 days


#13 posted 02-13-2010 06:18 PM

Another tip is to heat up the wood prior to applying the epoxy. You want to be in an environment that is cooling down as the epoxy sets. If you apply the epoxy in the morning, and the room starts heating up as the sun starts shining in, then the wood may start outgassing—and make bubbles. It is better to apply at the end of the day as the temperature is cooling down.

-- Scott, San Diego

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19582 posts in 2548 days


#14 posted 02-14-2010 01:22 AM

Great job Ryan.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View jeffro's profile

jeffro

157 posts in 1389 days


#15 posted 03-30-2011 04:46 PM

Nice, what a huge pour,it looks great. I just did two bars one 15 and one 12 foot I like the look of a satan finish after the pour set up I hit it with 320 then 400 grit and super fine steal wool and them hit it with some car wax. Doing this too will make it easy to blend any spots you have to fix.
Great job it looks sweet.

-- Jeffro,knockonwood

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