Hey, Wayne, I did it!!!

Outstanding. I really like it. I will have to build a smoother over my vacation. Did you see the Lie-Nielson shooting board plans? They would be a good place to start if you do not have any plans. Although, by the time you read this you will probably already have one done…

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/shootingboard.pdf

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Naw I’m sitting right here. I’ll just wing it like I did on this. I’ve kinda seen several chute boards and have a pretty good idea of what I want. I’ll post it when I get it done. Thanks

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Blimey; I’d never have thought it possible! (Making it in that time AND getting into the workshop by 6 a.m.) That’s a delight.

-- Res severa verum gaudium - True pleasure is a serious business.

I agree Stewart. Especially for a first plane.

Tom, I’m thinking about building a number of shooting boards for miters and such. All I have now is ones for 90 degrees. The nice thing about the Lie-Nielson plans are the two attachements to the basic shooting board.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne, I think I’ll build two. One at 90 and one for both 45’s. I’ll only use it for small stuff so I just need one with the bench hook like the LN plans show. I’d rather have them solid. They don’t take up much room. And I can screw up anything that’s loose.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Sounds like a plan. I’m also planning to build a couple of bench hooks for sawing. One for western and one for Japanese saws.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Hey Tom;

Ah chute, that’s just plane beautiful!

Sorry about the play on word’s, sometimes I just can’t help myself.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Hey, Lee I think you should be PUN-ished for that ! Thanks
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Beautiful job! I’ve got enough trouble using a plane, much less making one.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

By gosh! You did do it. Amazing what can come out of a palaver sometimes. I need to go garage sale hunting for some planes.

Tom,

Great job on the plane. Maybe it will sapawn a whole bunch of new planes, like the wave of cutting boards that have recently been made. I know I wouldn’t be able to craft one in (3) hours, but even if it was (8), that would be OK!

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

Tom,
Thanks for the compliment. It really isn’t that tough. Believe me, this one isn’t rocket science. Now the ones Phil builds are pretty complex. I do need to go get a piece of brass dowell to replace the wooden one. I don’t think it works quite right. This is just a quick one to get it going. I’m still tweaking it here and there. You can do this.
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Have you seen these plans Tom?

http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/sitelinks/howplane.html

Some interesting information here.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Also, you could consider shoulders for the wedge like Phil did…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I hadn’t seen those plans, Wayne. I had seen some similar in the past. I looked real hard at how Phil does his wedge and the shoulders on his planes. The way I did this one is sorta like Krenov does his. I just didn’t have a brass rod. I’ll get some next time I’m in town. I think the way Phil does his clears the shavings away better than with the rod across. I also think I will make the wedge smaller. I had to hurry this morning so I could get back on the cabinets.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Given the amount of time you spent on it, you did an amazing job. Just thought you might get some ideas from the link.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

From…”I think I’ll build a plane” to shavings in 3 hours? I think I’ll go hit my thumb with a hammer. I’m good at that.

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

Wayne, I printed off those plans from College of the Redwoods. It gives a way to place the rod that holds the wedge. It also mentions a sole. On the ECE planes that is hormbeam and pretty thick. I’m not sure what should be used for a sole. Maybe Hickory? Probably Liptus would wear well. The Ash I used is not going to be very good. I tried to use it to chamfer an edge and could feel a groove in the sole. I did get a chute board made amongst every thing else tody. It’s a 90 but seemed to work about like I thought it would. Not as good as a sharp table saw.LOL

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I have some Jarrah set aside for soles. It is what Hock uses in their plane kits. I think that if you get the plane tuned right, you can match the table saw. I need to hone the blade on mine some more to make that determination. I’m also going to tune up my #7 and give that a shot. I just picked up a hock blade and chip breaker for it. Need to flatten the back and hone the blade, then will be good to go…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Also, I will check my plane making book when I get home (Friday) and see what woods are recommended for soles.

http://www.amazon.com/Making-Mastering-Wood-Planes-Revised/dp/140272022X/ref=sr_1_3/002-9183345-2218432?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1190691618&sr=1-3

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

A great job Tom.
Ash might not be the best, but its sure pretty!

-- Dick Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

OK, Wayne, maybe I’ll grab some Jarrah next time I’m in town. My supplier has some. Maybe Purpleheart. They use it for lowboy floors here. I guess if it will hold up a cat it ought to work for a plane sole. When I get a minute or 5 hours or a day, I want to make a #4 size smoother. I think maybe I need a hunk of real beech for that. I also want to try one of Phil’s brass bottomed shoulder planes. Oh crap, this is how I’ve gotten into everything; I can’t afford it so I try to make it. Oh, well, we’re still having fun!

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

That’s funny, Dick. We all see differently. to me Ash is just a using wood. I makes good gates and double trees and is Ok for single trees and mower tongues. It even makes pretty good spokes for wheels but to me it isn’t pretty. Good thing too, or we’d all be fighting over the same woman.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Tom, if you decided to join the sole to the body with joints like an ECE, it would probably only take you an extra 20 minutes or so at the rate you work. Outstanding job. And here I been fiddling around with the same damned box for 3 weeks.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Douglas,
From looking I think the soles on ECE planes employee sliding dovetails. I think that once you had the jigs and setups done it wouldn’t take that long to do. How many days it would take to get the setup done is another question. I’m sure they didn’t get in in an hour. You know that Incra thingy you’ve got will do incremental moves, won’t it? See, you have the solution. What was that thing, ROTFL somethimg or other?
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Wow, I am betting it is not as easy as it looks. Making your own tools sounds like the most enjoyable project, other than using the tools you made and enjoying the finished products.

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

Yeah, Snowdog, but it’s not as hard as it looks either. Remember it’s just something to work with.
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

A nice piece of Blackwood for the sole would be great. But then you have spent as much for the wood as buying a plane.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Did you all see the Hock video of how to make a Krenov style plane?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLNRkyCTlT4

Also, a good source of Plane Blades is Craftsman Studio. They discount Hock products. I’ve placed a couple of orders with them.

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/hockblades.htm

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne, I’ll have to watch that video. This is my morning break and don’t have time right now.
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

At least your in the shop. I’m in a teleconference…. Bah.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

AND ON YOUR LAPTOP,RIGHT?

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

My laptop and I are together 14 hours most days…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

such a love affair

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Not exactly, my shop (and family) are missing me.

I did bring my plane making book with me. Some woods to use Hard Maple, Beech, Oak or Ash if it has closely packed growth rings, osage orange, cherry or walnut for large planes, Bulbinga, coco bolo, goncalo alves, are some examples in the book.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

That was ROTFLMAO (Rolling on the floor, laughing my keester off), Tom. Yup the Incra will allow evenly spaced or variably spaced sliding doves. Looks like you might have thrown down the gauntlet for my plane project, but I know at least my first wooden-bodied will be one like yours. I think Lignum Vitae is what Emmerich uses for it’s soles, super dense and oily. Probably a challenge to machine.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Lignum is a good choice if you can find it. I have a few pieces set aside that I have accumulated along the way. Anyone have a good source for lignum that would work planes. 3” x 3” stock or larger, material that would work for soles?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne,
I watched the Hock plane making video. That is basically how I did it. Minus the sole of course. I think he did it in less than 3 hours and there is no reason not to. Anyone who wants good planes can have them. These are as good as anything on the market. They are not as pretty or as easy to adjust but they will get the wood shaped. You can make them any pitch you want and have one for every occasion.
Tom

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I think if you could master making the blades like Phil has done, you could have a good supply for the cost of materials. I do not belive tool steel is that expensive.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I’ve done some forge work and my son-in -law is very good with one. At the moment neither of us has one. Like a dummy I sold my acetelene outfit to a friend when I sold the ranch. We do have everything out at the irrigation district shop. He’s the manager. Main thing we don’t have is a surface grinder or a big belt sander. I don’t want to file A2. Of course any mild steel will work if it is tempered after it is shaped. We do have plenty of grinders both bench and hand. One thing about ranching, you learn a little of every thing. Some where I’ve got a really good book on forge work and it gives the heats to temper to pretty close to the Rockwell scale. You could probably make a plane iron out of a horseshoe if you had to have one. There’s a project, Wayne, find a block of Maple or Beech and a hunk of iron and make a plane. LOL My anvil is sitting in the shop and there is a welder just inside the door. Phil describes a little tempering outfit he uses. It is pretty simple.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I’ve got some hard maple, a hunk of Osage orange and two Krenov style hock blade/chipbreak combinations. Think I will avoid the metal work for now. Perhaps someday in the future. Hopefully I will get some time in a couple of weeks when I am on vacation.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I made a custom molding cutter for my Belsaw planer. I took a piece of 1/4” tool steel painted it with die makers dye, traced the pattern on it and use a 1/8” thick metal cutting blade in a grinder. got the shape I wanted and hand filed to the line.

Heated the sucker up red and dropped it into a can of motor oil.

Sharpened er up and cut the wood, It might not have been the most accurate tempering job but it sure let me cut the molding.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Very nice. I should take some metal working classes. I’ve never done any.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I’ve used a forge shoeing work horses and working plow shares. It is hot and dirty. That was a coke forge. I think the new acetelene ones are cleaner. The metal is still dirty but there isn’t the smoke. Read a book on it and work for three days studying the various heats and it would be easy for you .For just tempering you could use charcoal and I hair dryer for a blower.As I remember it most tempering is done at a straw heat and some at cherry then let it cool until it blues and quench in oil or what ever you use. It’s pretty straight forward.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I’ve actually got some of the right books. I’ll have to give it some thought.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Saddlery, plane making, ranching. It’s all just launched you onto my buddy list—I’ve got to keep an eye on you!

-- There's no tool like an old tool...