|Project by splintergroup||posted 11-15-2016 04:34 PM||645 views||1 time favorited||9 comments|
These boxes are the result of looking for ‘cheap’ items to make/sell for consignment at the local gift shop/gallery.
The dimensions are 4-7/8”h x 3-7/8”w x 1-1/2”d.
The interior is sized to just fit an unopened pack of standard playing cards (standard cards are 2-1/2” x 3-1/2”). The bottom is 1/4” lauan plywood, of which I seem to have a lifetime supply of. The tops are the copper etchings from my blog on making etched copper panels
Various woods were used, mainly to help clear out some of the smaller cutoffs in my scrap stash.
Cherry, white oak, lauan, tamarisk, apricot, and spalted maple, all cut to 1/2” thick. The mitered corners are reinforced with walnut splines (12 per box).
I built the boxes for a slip-fit of the top. This avoids the hassle and expense of hinges, but requires a bit of hand fitting.
It all begins with strips of wood planed to 1/2” thick. Next time I’ll probably go for 3/8”. The wood is cut to length with 45 degree miters, then cut to width.
I marked the pieces so I could restore the cut order and align the grain. This gives a bit better ‘flow’ around the box.
Next step is cutting the grooves for the top/bottom panels. I like the mitered corners when I use inset panels. The miters hide the grooves and no chisel cleanup required to square the corners.
The wide groove is cut with a FTG rip blade. The copper panels are 0.062” (1/16”) so an inexpensive circular saw blade cuts perfect width slots.
All ready for assembly!
The sides are placed onto a strip of tape, the stretchiness acts as an initial clamp and keeps things aligned.
I cut the panels for a nearly exact fit to help keep everything square. This has the benefit of allowing the lid to be installed in either direction.
A few clamps help squeeze close the miters without fear of loosing square.
I spline all the corners for strength then slit the box sides with the thin blade.
The height is set to not fully cut into the box interior, this keeps the box intact when making the final cuts. The lid is separated from the bottom by cutting the final depth with a box cutter. Some cleanup with a sheet of sandpaper attached to a granite slab gives me perfect surfaces for a tight seal.
Some 1/8” maple strips are fitted to the interior to act as a lip for the lid.
A few strokes with a sanding block and 240 grit allows me to get a smooth, yet secure fit for the lid. All edges are chamfered on the router table.
Definitely a project that you want to set up for mass production steps if you plan on more than one (lots of blade changes, miter angle changes, etc.).
Thanks for looking!