| Project by SteveC | posted 1228 days ago | 2508 views | 5 times favorited | 14 comments | ![]() |
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Another micro project in my endless list of tasks building my new home (from footings to the last finish nail pretty much solo).
These 1-3/8” pine doors have 1.25” solid panels raised on the shaper, cope and stick frames with 4” loose tenons at all joints.
Finish is spray only MLC Woodsong II, Vinyl sealer sandwiching a burnt umber glaze and 2 coats of post cat conversion varnish.
I had a problem with my supplier and they sold me the wrong sealer which caused me to have to strip and totally re-finish TEN of the 14 doors …GRRRR. Took about 2 months to strip and re-do… I was GLAD to see that end for sure!
-- Steve in Kemptville On. Canada
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14 comments so far
Dennis Fletcher
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455 posts in 1251 days
#1 posted 1228 days ago
Wow, very nice. I wish I knew how to build doors, all of ours in my house would eventually get switched.
-- http://www.ahomespecialist.net, Making design and application one. †
jayjay
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639 posts in 1243 days
#2 posted 1228 days ago
That’s a heck of project to take on. The color on the doors looks great.
-- ~Jason~ , Albuquerque NM
Bob #2
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3808 posts in 2218 days
#3 posted 1228 days ago
Steve, as always your dedication to detial and super raftmanship sets your wrlk apart from the rest of us.
Those doors look worth the effort you extended to make them and would abe a welcome addition and any home.
Bob
-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner
SgtSnafu
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956 posts in 1468 days
#4 posted 1228 days ago
Very nice doors there – that was quite a job.. Well done
Thanks for sharing
-- Scotty - aka... SgtSnafu - Randleman NC
RandyMarine
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235 posts in 1566 days
#5 posted 1228 days ago
I like pine and your talent shines with this very soft material.
-- Semper Fi, Randy Sr.
a1Jim
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89049 posts in 1774 days
#6 posted 1228 days ago
Lets GET that supplier, doors look great
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
BigSissy
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15 posts in 1835 days
#7 posted 1228 days ago
Why did you decide to to put the shorter panels on the bottom instead of the top?
spanky46
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969 posts in 1587 days
#8 posted 1228 days ago
Very impressive!
-- spanky46 -- Never enough clamps...Never enough tools...Never enough time.
Beginningwoodworker
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13238 posts in 1870 days
#9 posted 1228 days ago
Nice looking doors.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
Stanley Coker
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195 posts in 1392 days
#10 posted 1227 days ago
Wow, GREAT job.
-- Stanley, North Georgia
RexMcKinnon
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2591 posts in 1392 days
#11 posted 1226 days ago
Beautiful doors.
-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!
BTKS
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1916 posts in 1661 days
#12 posted 1226 days ago
WOW, what a tall order. Great work!
-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)
SteveC
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23 posts in 2073 days
#13 posted 1225 days ago
Big sissy…
The panels are dictated by the latch rail height.
Typically that is 36” o/c so the lower panels must fit between the kick rail and the latch rail.
Look at any commercially made panel door and you will see the same thing.
Generally speaking things ‘look right’ when heavier on the bottom than the top. The tall panels appear narrower because of their height contributing to this illusion.
Pine isn’t my favorite wood but I just so happen to have 5000BF of it lying around so what they heck’;)
Much of it is 6/4 or better so perfect for doors. Had I 8/4 these doors would have ended up as 1-3/4 rather than 1-3/8 but no biggie.
Trim will probably be same material, 1-1/4 thick baseboards/casing (like I said, I have a LOT of 6/4 pine) ;)
Thanks for the kudos.
Steve
-- Steve in Kemptville On. Canada
SteveC
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23 posts in 2073 days
#14 posted 1225 days ago
Denis, Building doors isn’t as intimidating as it looks.
If you want cope & stick look it’s trickier but a shaker style door with flat panels and butt joints would be very easy. Just get a good dowel jig like a Dowelmax and do your joinery that way then rout or Dado the grooves for panels. Flat panels could be 1/2” glue up solids or even ply for that matter.
Of course M&T would be better, floating like I did or true M&T but it’s not necessary IMO for an interior door like this, dowels or dominos are more than strong enough.
From my experience one will never “know how” unless they TRY IT ;)
-- Steve in Kemptville On. Canada
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