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Here's a slew of new cutting boards...It's that time of year...

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Project by UncannyValleyWoods posted 10-21-2016 01:02 AM 2276 views 8 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Except for the pin stripe boards, the clear wood is actually beech. This is the first time I’ve used beech instead of hard maple and I have to say, I love it. Gotta go back to the sawmill guy and buy a stack of it before it’s all gone.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods?ref=hdr_shop_menu





12 comments so far

View wiser1934's profile

wiser1934

498 posts in 2609 days


#1 posted 10-21-2016 01:51 AM

love those stripes. yes the beech color is beautiful. i might copy your idea if you don’t mind. thanks for posting
one question. was there any glue up problem in as much as there is end grain??? thanks

-- wiser1934, new york

View oldwood's profile

oldwood

56 posts in 706 days


#2 posted 10-21-2016 02:31 AM

I have the same concerns as wiser. I have always been under the impression that end grain glue joints were weak. Are you using glue or epoxy?
Great designs and great work.

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

441 posts in 1326 days


#3 posted 10-21-2016 02:55 AM


I have the same concerns as wiser. I have always been under the impression that end grain glue joints were weak. Are you using glue or epoxy?
Great designs and great work.

- oldwood

I’ve never had any problems with end grain glue ups, aside from one board that the owner allowed to sit in a puddle on the counter for several days. I actually repaired that board and it’s lasted years for them.

I see people make this claim about end grain all the time, and frankly, it’s always been my impression that folks aren’t allowing their projects to cure clamped long enough. I sometimes leave these boards clamped for as many as 36 hours and I will often let them sit for a few weeks before I start sanding on them.

When I glue them up, I make sure I’ve got good clean edges with no burn, I use only titebond 3 and I give instructions with the boards to be gentle and do not leave them lying in puddles. I also use a lot of mineral oil…not just a light coat…and my oiling process lasts several days.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods?ref=hdr_shop_menu

View majuvla's profile

majuvla

9120 posts in 2330 days


#4 posted 10-21-2016 03:47 AM

Nice collection and patterns. I bet they will be lovely presents for X-mas.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

View brian67's profile

brian67

6 posts in 48 days


#5 posted 10-21-2016 11:37 AM

Very good looking boards! I especially like the pair with the smaller walnut squares in them. It’s a nice change from the usual checkered pattern.

-- -Brian

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

441 posts in 1326 days


#6 posted 10-21-2016 11:50 AM



Very good looking boards! I especially like the pair with the smaller walnut squares in them. It s a nice change from the usual checkered pattern.

- brian67

Yeah, it’s a pretty easy trick to pull off too. I was really pleased with the way it turned out. Thanks!

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods?ref=hdr_shop_menu

View 54curly's profile

54curly

36 posts in 1257 days


#7 posted 10-21-2016 01:45 PM


Very good looking boards! I especially like the pair with the smaller walnut squares in them. It s a nice change from the usual checkered pattern.

- brian67

Yeah, it s a pretty easy trick to pull off too. I was really pleased with the way it turned out. Thanks!

- UncannyValleyWoods


So I have to ask what’s the trick to the smaller squares?
54curly

-- Curly, South Dakota! Now where did I put that board stretcher?

View Terry's profile

Terry

194 posts in 3096 days


#8 posted 10-21-2016 01:46 PM

I have never had a problem with end grain gluing using Titebond 3. I apply a very thin amount of glue to the end grain and let it dry before final glue and clamping. As said, leaving clamped until the glue cures is the key. If your really worried about it you can always use biscuits or dowels.

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

441 posts in 1326 days


#9 posted 10-21-2016 02:31 PM


I have never had a problem with end grain gluing using Titebond 3. I apply a very thin amount of glue to the end grain and let it dry before final glue and clamping. As said, leaving clamped until the glue cures is the key. If your really worried about it you can always use biscuits or dowels.

- Terry

Yup! I would say that end grain to end grain is typically a bad idea, but like Terry said, edge to end done properly is not a problem.

So I have to ask what s the trick to the smaller squares?
54curly

- 54curly

It’ll blow your mind how easy it is… So basically, all you need to do is take your stock, say a stick of walnut 1 inch by 1 inch + your length, then take your contrast wood and glue half inch or quarter inch strip to the top and bottom of the walnut. Then collate it within your first glue up just like any of your other boards. When you cross cut it, out pops your walnut square.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods?ref=hdr_shop_menu

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

441 posts in 1326 days


#10 posted 10-21-2016 02:35 PM

I should also probably note that when I do glue ups, I glue faces not edges. I cut my stock so that it is anywhere between 1.5 inches to 2 inches high. You cannot get this effect the same way if you are doing edge to edge glue ups.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/UncannyValleyWoods?ref=hdr_shop_menu

View JimRochester's profile

JimRochester

376 posts in 1077 days


#11 posted 10-21-2016 06:55 PM

Very nice collection. When I make boards from scrap I glue up every which way, end-grain, to long grain, to flat grain. Never had one come apart. Here in the northeast we are fairly stable in humidity. I too usually leave things in clamps for 24 hours before I start any machining.

-- Schooled in the advanced art of sawdust and woodchip manufacturing.

View oldrivers's profile

oldrivers

733 posts in 1029 days


#12 posted 10-22-2016 01:55 AM

Great collection~good work

-- Soli Deo gloria!

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