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My R4511's ZCI With Replaceable Plate

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Project by Scott Hildenbrand posted 1636 days ago 2498 views 4 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Since I had a flub on this ZCI when I made it (tape slipped on the third one) I figured I’d use it to test my idea of using leftover laminate flooring as inserts for a ZCI, that way I can have a fresh plate any time I want just by slipping in a new insert and cutting through it.

All in all it turned out well. I’ve still got to add the back holding clip to the underside of the ZCI and also drill and tap it for leveling screws, but it’s basically done.

I used a 14 degree bevel bit in the router table to cut out the material on the ZCI itself.. Dang ZCI flew out of my hands twice while doing so before I figured out that I forgot to factor in the feed direction on a back cut.. Whoops!

Once the material was hogged out I cut the beveled blanks on the table saw out of a single 4’ long section of Pergo laminate flooring.. All in all, I have 4 four foot long blanks I can cut to size and use any time I need.

I’ll end up cutting them down to final size later on this week so they’re all sitting ready for when ever I need.

There are still some flubs in it where the router bit out the front left, but it’s more than functional, for sure.





12 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2244 days


#1 posted 1636 days ago

nice. very efficient concept.

I just hope that the thin area in the UMHW looking material won’t cause any issues in the long run. I would probably reinforce it at least in the back (behind the riving knife) for a little more rigidity (or ridgidity if you must…lol)

looks good though, and easily replaceable.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2172 days


#2 posted 1636 days ago

Looks workable

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Scott Hildenbrand's profile

Scott Hildenbrand

71 posts in 2337 days


#3 posted 1636 days ago

So far I hadn’t seen any issues. Once the ZCI is in place [snug fit] it doesn’t allow much flex movement, if that’s what you’re worried about.

Really, I’d love to have this made out of sheet aluminum, but I’m no machinist. Maybe I’ll get one of my buddies to whip me up one once I iron any issues out.

What are some of your concerns?

Thinnest part is 11/64th at the slot on the UHMW.. Insert measures in at 41/128th.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2244 days


#4 posted 1636 days ago

at little over 1/8” thick it’s on the thinner side of things- but I’ve seen entire inserts made of 1/8” material and although not ideal, they hold fine.

my concern would be the thin area flexing, which will make the rest of the UHMW bind against the flooring material and might move it left/right/tilt which will bind against the blade, and since this is already at zero clearance, might introduce it’s own effects.

sorry if I may sound critical, I like this design. it reminds me of the Tru-Cut inserts, but those are reinforced both in the front and the back. but on the Tru-Cut inserts they screw the sub inserts down, which on yours is toolless and easily slides in – which I actually like more (less tools, the better). but with TS safety, Its sometimes worth to take extra precautions. just trying to make the best of both world I guess. :)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Scott Hildenbrand's profile

Scott Hildenbrand

71 posts in 2337 days


#5 posted 1636 days ago

Oh not at all.. I like to look at things from all perspectives.. In fact I’d thought of the thickness already.. I just like hearing other people say how stupid my ideas are to verify in my mind if I’m nuts.. :D

I won’t know for sure how flex will play into it until I get the final levelers in place and the read lock down screwed on. Once that’s done I’ll feel more secure and run some stock over it..

Since the insert is slip fit (you have to PUSH, it’s not loose) then I do have to worry about shifting. However I can’t foresee anything catastrophic happening. If it does bind, it would cause the insert to push forward and should be no more than a possible friction burn against the insert.

The 14 degree bevel is enough to hold it in place in the UHMW plastic at the BACK of the blade as upward movement is trying to push it UP.. and at the FRONT of the blade, the movement would be pushing it DOWN.

Just for fun I sent a buddy a message to see what he’d want to make the base plate out of aluminum. IF this works out as it is, I’ll surely see about having it made out of metal. But I may change my mind about the insert thickness.

As it is, it only protects the ZCI from the kickback paws while the blade is at 90 degrees.. So if I plunge a new insert at 45 degrees, I won’t be able to use the factory shield and paws.

But then, I have a true riving knife to the side. But I want to get some better dust collection going, which involves above table collection.

View woodspyder's profile

woodspyder

80 posts in 2225 days


#6 posted 1636 days ago

I saw something very similar in I think ShopNotes magazine a couple of issues back. I have been wanting to make one for myself.

Nice job; Please post again after you add the holding clip I would like to see how you do yours.

On what PurpLev mentioned a “simple” cure might be to drill a 1/8 inch hole from one side to the other, at the bottom of the groove. Then install the insert and through the same hole drill a 1/4 inch hole and tap in a dowel. That should be enough to reduce any flex. The 1/8 inch hole is there to remove the dowel. Just a thought.

As I was typing this I thought if the insert is made slightly oversized it should stiffen everything up when inserted as well.

-- Measure three times, cut twice.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14575 posts in 2271 days


#7 posted 1636 days ago

Is cutting through the laminate a bit hard on the TS blades?

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View stefang's profile (online now)

stefang

12523 posts in 1929 days


#8 posted 1636 days ago

Thanks for posting this. I have a problem with my Euro saw in that the insert plate is real thin.it came with an aluminum plate, but far from zero clearance .I did manage to make a wooden zero clearance that is thick, but I had to cut out like you did to hang it in there. I have been thinking about using aluminum for stiffness, but I don’t want to have it around the blade. With your idea I might be able to figure out a way to get what I want. My table is Aluminum and only about 1/8” thick and the insert plate sits on little tabs that stick out around the bottom edge of the insert recess. If anybody has any ideas for me I will appreciate you letting me know. Now that I think about it, I will probably post it on a forum with some pics.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14575 posts in 2271 days


#9 posted 1636 days ago

Mike, you might make it of wood, thin down around the tabs and bed it with epoxy. Make sure to put a good coat of paste wax on the saw before the bedding process or you might end up with a permanent installation :-)

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View stefang's profile (online now)

stefang

12523 posts in 1929 days


#10 posted 1635 days ago

Thanks for the tip Bob, but I have already done all that. I am going to post some pics, and then you will see why it is so difficult. It’s totally unlike the saw tables over there.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Scott Hildenbrand's profile

Scott Hildenbrand

71 posts in 2337 days


#11 posted 1635 days ago

I’ve got a buddy from Norway.. Nice place, eh..

Look forward to seeing the pics of it (checking your page in a min to see if you posted) to see what you’re up against.

Far as cutting laminate being hard on the blade… Well.. Yeah.. But it’s only one cut.. Could make the inserts out of ply though, as well, but I’m not sure ply would keep the paws from digging in.. Which is why I went with laminate. :)

View stefang's profile (online now)

stefang

12523 posts in 1929 days


#12 posted 1635 days ago

Thanks Scott. Yes Norway is a nice place except it’s really cold this winter.-8 degrees C right now.There is only one photo that shows the throat plate on my saw in my workshop photos. You can just make out that my blade is only a little over a 1/4” from the edge of the throat opening. This is the main problem. I am going to post some better pictures, probably later today. The original insert was an aluminum plate that had a wide opening around the blade and it was only covering the throat on one side of the blade. The other side was left open to accommodate bevel sawing without removing the throat plate. To be honest, I’m not all that optimistic about being able to solve this problem.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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