Ridgid R4512 Tablesaw Outfeed Table

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Project by Mikemccind posted 10-10-2016 12:57 PM 4900 views 10 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Finished this outfeed table for my Ridgid R4512 tablesaw based on ideas from other projects and designs from lumberjacks postings. I designed the support knee brace to come off the rear axle of the casters so it is always set at the right height regardless of the shop floor. No leveling of support legs required. I used oak plywood for the 24” x 48” table and framed it in oak trim. The mounting to the saw is with an angle iron attachment to the bottom T-slot on the tablesaws back fence rail guide. I set the spacing so the rip fence movement is not impeded. There is just enough movement in the angle iron slotted holes for fine height adjustment of the outfeed table to match the tablesaw’s cast iron top. I used a long piano hinge to allow the outfeed table to swing down and out of the way when not needed. I store the support brace separately in the corner of my shop. A coating of paste wax is the only finish I used. The outtable is proving to be plenty sturdy and I can move the tablesaw around when needed without lowering the table or needing to readjust the support brace.

-- Mike, North Webster, IN

11 comments so far

View bushmaster's profile


3344 posts in 2483 days

#1 posted 10-10-2016 02:01 PM

That is strange, Usually it is photo’s that lays down because they do not resize them smaller. This baffels me.Too bad to have this happen on your first project listed, don’t give up posting as we want to see your future work, you did a great job on this one.

-- Brian - Hazelton, British Columbia

View jayseedub's profile


136 posts in 2166 days

#2 posted 10-10-2016 03:25 PM

I find that since this website is hosted in the Northern Hemisphere, photos that are routed to the server from the Southern Hemisphere naturally orient themselves upside down. Are you loading these from down south?

It’s not a big problem for me—I just take my computer down south of the equator to view these specific pictures, and all is good!

If I need to view the pictures faster than a plane flight will allow, I rotate my body 90 degrees, while rotating the monitor 90 degrees the other way (or vice-versa, depending on what I had for breakfast), and that solves the problem, too.

View jayseedub's profile


136 posts in 2166 days

#3 posted 10-10-2016 03:26 PM

On a serious note, what did you bolt it to? I’d love to see some detail of that connection, please!

View htl's profile


4230 posts in 1360 days

#4 posted 10-10-2016 03:59 PM

-- An Index Of My Model making Blogs

View lndfilwiz's profile


108 posts in 1801 days

#5 posted 10-10-2016 05:19 PM

Thank you HTL!

-- Smile, it makes people wander what you are up to.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 3432 days

#6 posted 10-10-2016 05:46 PM

Your project looks good – upside down or right side up.

Since you are using a phone, next time, edit each picture by cropping the pic (even if ever so slightly), then save it. Then they should post normally.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Mikemccind's profile


13 posts in 795 days

#7 posted 10-10-2016 08:22 PM

Got the posted pictures loaded (edited) with correct side up. Thanks to MT_Stringer input on suggestion to doing picture cropping first. Did the trick. Thanks to Mike.
I’ll get a close up of the bolt up mounting details as requested by Jayseedub when I’m back at my shop next week.

-- Mike, North Webster, IN

View Mikemccind's profile


13 posts in 795 days

#8 posted 10-10-2016 09:22 PM

Searched my photo collection on the outfeed table and found a couple of close ups showing mounting and bolt up details for attaching the outfeed table to the tablesaw T-slot on the back fence rail guide. I used eight 5/16” bolts spaced over the full 4 foot length of the table in the T-slot and eight more on the oak mounting board offset a few holes on the steel angle to allow the needed clearance between the two rows of bolts. I oriented the slotted steel angle (1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 4 ft. – 14 gauge) so that the slotted holes would be used by the bolted side into the oak board with the continuous piano hinge (1-1/2” x 4 ft. – nickel finish) This then allowed for a small vertical adjustment capability to fine tune the outfeed table’s final height to match the tablesaw’s cast iron deck. The 5/16” hex bolt heads slid nicely into the tablesaws fence rail guide T-slot and the steel angle seated solidly on the bottom of the rail. The continous piano hinge was attached with the supplied wood screws (18) that came with the hinge. I counterbored the bolt holes in the oak mounting board to recess the heads allowing the table to swing to the down position without issue. I made the counterbore hole diameter sufficiently large to get my socket head on the bolt heads for assembly.

-- Mike, North Webster, IN

View LittleBlackDuck's profile (online now)


2088 posts in 1022 days

#9 posted 10-11-2016 06:07 AM

Hi Mike, Nice and neat job on the out-feed. However, to play the devil’s advocate, you may need a dado groove(s) to accommodate the runner(s) of a mitre sled (if you use one).

I’m no expert, but believe that the picture orientation may have something to do with “metadata” which is stored with the JPEG picture. Once you edit it and re-save it, you also change the metadata info which may include orientation (I do stand to be corrected).

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View Mikemccind's profile


13 posts in 795 days

#10 posted 10-11-2016 05:05 PM

I though long and hard about the dado grooves for the outfeed table during design. I decided I’d have the outfeed table in the down position most of the time anyway to conserve space in my small garage shop. There is just the right amount of clearance space with the table down to allow the mitre guides to pass over the top edge of the table when I’m using my crosscut sled/mitre gauge. When I have the outfeed table up its all about ripping long pieces or plywood sheets with the fence. Just have to lower it when going back to using the sled. If/when I find I need the grooves, believe (hope) I can cut dado slots with my router in the 3/4” ply.

I agree on the metadata on the pics as the root issue with the camera phone.

-- Mike, North Webster, IN

View JCinVA's profile


148 posts in 1031 days

#11 posted 10-12-2016 03:54 AM

Really nice setup. Attaching the brace to the saw is an idea I’m copying.

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