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Amboyna Burl Pen

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Project by grub32 posted 01-21-2010 04:28 AM 3154 views 1 time favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Amboyna Burl Pen
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This is a picture of two Jr Gent Pens that I made using my CA Glue finish. I love using the CA finish, it really makes the grain and eyes of the wood stand out. Amboyna on the Left and Thuya Burl on the Right. Sorry about the nasty photos, I need to get my lighting fixed up to take better photos. More pen photos to come.

Thanks for Looking,

Grub

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!





14 comments so far

View ohwoodeye's profile

ohwoodeye

1106 posts in 1897 days


#1 posted 01-21-2010 05:38 AM

Turn the pen, sand the pen, apply CA Glue. Do you resand or buff the CA glue? How many coats to you apply and how long do you wait between coats. Do you apply the glue at high speed and burn it in or just apply it at no speed etc?

-- Directions are just the Manufacturer's opinion on how something should be assembled. ----Mike, Waukesha, WI

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14134 posts in 2334 days


#2 posted 01-21-2010 02:38 PM

Very nice!

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View Richard Alexander's profile

Richard Alexander

78 posts in 1824 days


#3 posted 01-21-2010 09:39 PM

I can’t speak for grub but I apply it at a fairly high speed. Rather than try to explain the process, here is a video that I would just be repeating anyhow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

I’m not big on watching videos to learn something but this one is great.
Richard A.

-- Richard- Tulsa, Oklahoma

View Karson's profile

Karson

34911 posts in 3144 days


#4 posted 01-21-2010 09:50 PM

Beautiful looking pen. Nice job.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View grub32's profile

grub32

210 posts in 1792 days


#5 posted 01-21-2010 11:36 PM

My finish is rather simple…Sand to 600 grit…Wipe with DNA, no matter what…4 coats of this CA, let cure or add accelerator btwn coats…All at SLOW speed…I dont want the paper towel or plastic bag to stick to the finish and mess it up…I then MM to 12000 and then polish with Novus II or mylands auto polish…I am getting good at making it happen, so now it takes about 10 mins start to finish. Not bad at all. I shy away from processes that say use heat and high speeds. I will be posting a youtube video of my finish later in the week.

Thanks for looking,

Grub

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!

View Jeff's profile

Jeff

95 posts in 2041 days


#6 posted 01-22-2010 02:13 AM

Grub,

I do just about the same finish and process with the exception of using accelerator. I only sand the wood to 400 at best, 320 is probably good enough since the glue will fill in all the fine scratches anyway. Sometimes I start with a high viscosity(watery) CA with only one or two coats to “seal the wood”. Then I use a medium viscosity CA glue and apply it lightly always with a paper towel and no sanding between coats, usually just let air dry. I find that the lighter the coats the less sanding it takes to smooth it out before polishing. You are right about the high speed. If you are touching it when it sets up, it will catch the paper towel or plastic and you have a mess. Initially I started by using a high viscosity (thick) CA glue and found that while you get a nice quick build up, it usually needs to be sanded starting at 150 because it just doesn’t go on very smooth. Maybe I was just putting too much on.

Anyway, those look great. I made the same pen kit with Amboyna burl(my favorite), turned out great. It was a commission, I think I got about $150 for it.

Jeff

-- - In the end, everything will be okay. If it isn't okay, it isn't the end yet.

View Hix's profile

Hix

161 posts in 2022 days


#7 posted 01-22-2010 02:51 AM

Great looking pens! Thuya burl is one of my favorites to turn and is a great seller for me.

As 20 turners for their CA process and get 25 answers…...I apply like most folks but skip the micro mesh and as long as it is smooth, I let is cure overnight ususally, buff it w/ EEE and white diamond. Total finish time is about 10 minutes one day, 5 minutes the second day.

-- ---call me---- Mark

View grub32's profile

grub32

210 posts in 1792 days


#8 posted 01-22-2010 02:57 AM

Thanks Jeff…150$ sounds good…I think that everyone needs to find something that works for them and stick with it. Mine works good…It doesnt take much effort to finish it up so thats what I use.

Grub

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!

View grub32's profile

grub32

210 posts in 1792 days


#9 posted 01-23-2010 04:47 PM

I uploaded a video of my CA Finish to youtube. Its at http://www.youtube.com/grub32

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!

View Padre's profile

Padre

930 posts in 2232 days


#10 posted 01-23-2010 07:56 PM

Do you use the ca finish on non-porous woods? Where do you get your burls from?

-- Chip -----------http://www.penmanchip.com-----------------Micah 6:8

View grub32's profile

grub32

210 posts in 1792 days


#11 posted 01-23-2010 08:06 PM

I use the CA Finish on all my pens that are wood…even some that aren’t…I had to use the CA Finish on my christmas pen to seal the maple that was impregnated in the Polyester Resin. It works great. The finish on that pen is the same as the one in my video.

I buy a lot of my burl blanks from Woodcraft. Only because I can actually see the eyes of the burls when I buy…I love em…they are also available for sale from individuals on the penturners.org website under individual classifieds.

Thanks for Viewing,

Grub

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!

View Padre's profile

Padre

930 posts in 2232 days


#12 posted 01-24-2010 07:10 PM

From your video it seems you pour on the thin CA all over. Does this also glue the bushings to the pen blanks? Or any trouble actually gluing the blanks/bushings to the mandrel?

-- Chip -----------http://www.penmanchip.com-----------------Micah 6:8

View Richard Alexander's profile

Richard Alexander

78 posts in 1824 days


#13 posted 02-11-2010 01:33 AM

Took me a while but I finally watched the video. Thanks for posting it Grub. I’m looking forward to trying out this process when my garage gets warmed up. Question for you if you are are keeping up with this page. Do you let the pen set overnight while still on your mandrel? If not, how do you move it off without messing up the finish?

@Padre, Usually the bushings come off with no problem. Occassionally it takes a little pressure. You can dab a little wax on the pen ends before putting the blanks on the mandrel if it becomes a problem for you.

-- Richard- Tulsa, Oklahoma

View grub32's profile

grub32

210 posts in 1792 days


#14 posted 02-11-2010 06:08 PM

I usually cut them off with a knife…I hear that the wax idea works good. I do not usually leave overnight…I have done it a few times but doesnt seem to make a difference to me unless the humidity is extreme or temp is extremely cold. In those cases, I certainly do. The leopardwood pen that I made in the video was left overnight before breaking because it was 40 F in the workshop…I really need to get a wood burner. After taxes, that will hook me up for next year.

I use a really sharp exacto knife to get it off. If you have any more questions, let me know…

Grub

-- Science Teacher by Day, Wood Butcher by Night!!

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