|Project by LittleBlackDuck||posted 09-12-2016 03:34 PM||1856 views||3 times favorited||21 comments|
Boys and Girls,
Not in the too distant past, I built a circle cutting, come disc sanding jig dedicated for T & J models’ wheels. While it served it’s purpose well (and still does) I found it just a tad limited and not that good for cutting my fingernails.
While it had longitudinal adjustment, which was sufficient for wheels, it sadly lacked latitudinal adjustment required for the fine tunning of the cuticles of my fingernails.
I just happened to have a lazy good for nothing “Two way cross slide vice” gathering dust in a corner of my workshop.
Much as I tried to shrink it, flatten it and even dug a hole under my disc sander, I couldn’t find any way to incorporate the vice with the sander and still manage to contact the sanding discs with the timber on the vice. I then had a revere blonde moment and thought that the vice would sit comfortably on my lathe bed if only I could somehow connect my disc sander to my lathe spindle.
That being too arduous a task, I decided it might be easier to make a sanding disc for my lathe and mount that to the spindle. Rather than stuff around with screw on faceplates, I considered making a threaded faceplate attached to the disc out of wood as I had a 33mm thread maker for my lathe spindle. To cut a thread for a 33mm spindle I needed a 1 3/16” hole which was not too easily made with a 1 1/2” forstner bit so I conceded and used a 1 3/16” one instead. To facilitate the fitting of a 1 3/16” hole over the 5mm spindle of my bandsaw’s circle cutting jig I designed and 3D printed an adapter insert (the green thingy in the picture). One could always turn one on the lathe out of wood but this one could print one so he did.
I then made a mounting block out of timber with the same bore (actually a different bore but the same size) and used the 3D printed adapter to align the two pieces for glue up.
After the glue had set and eventually melting out the plastic (as it got glued to the wood), I mounted the assembly to the lathe using the chuck. To save you grief, I suggest you try the small block first as I quickly found the large disc was too big to fit.
I then aligned the thread cutter and braced it with the tailstock which also ensured it went in straight.
Then very deftly, preferable with both hands and the feet kept on the ground, I turned the threader with a shifter while extending the tailstock to advance the threader to assist the newly cut thread’s “pull”.
Once I hit the chuck, I quickly realised I couldn’t cut a thread in it so I moved the operating over to my work bench (leaving the lathe on it’s stand).
I then proceeded to work the threader all the way through. If you do this, make sure you’re not wearing thongs (flip flops) as the threader dropping on bare toes hurts.
Then using the wooden disc I traced it’s image on a piece of “starter” (that’s what sheets of the hook with the adhesive backing is called). After realising the hook side would not stick to the wood, I removed protective backing (off the starter… the wood does not have adhesive unless you apply glue… DOH!) and stuck it to the disc. I was a bit generous with my overlap so I could trim it to size using a box cutter.
I then measured up my lathe bed and created a carrier for the vice. I made a runner to fit down the centre of the lathe bed and made two hold-downs to the profile of the lathe bed channel.
At this stage, or before, and if neither then after, you need to decide how you want to mount the vice. If your a southpaw then it’s a simple matter of orientation, however, if you are a normal person…(right handed) decide on the orientation as if you choose longitudinal you will have to reverse the lateral motion of the vice.
If you are now confused, become a left hander and you don’t need to worry further. IF you take on this project, rest on the knowledge that it can be changed to suit. I chose lateral mounting as it seemed more stable, however, it does have the longitudinal control close to the lathe bed. Lateral mounting would have the longitudinal control off to the lathe’s side and the lateral control well above the lathe bed.
Now you need to decide on the vice tables design and mount. As a pilot exercise, I used a very basic table with a piece of timber that I mount in the vice jaw (actually that’s not true, I used the original vice table I designed years ago). You may need to do some out of square thinking if you plan to do vertical mitre sanding. If you don’t know what I mean then you’d probably never want to do it.
Now for a test piece. Rather than use my finger nails, I chose a bit of timber.
I then clamped one of my early prototype of my circle cutting jig (remember the opening sentence) to the vice table. I position the work as close as I can but exactness is not necessary. Now I can micro control the movement of that (latter) jig with the vices longitudinal and lateral control.
When you are finished… TURN YOUR LATHE OFF… or explicitly mark on your jig the direction of travel.
Nothing worse than advancing the finished product into a spinning sanding disc to create that unsightly flat spot….
PS. Future enhancements will be a dust collection add-on and a table with T-tracks.
The follow up to the table with T-track.
PPS. I haven’t provided any plans or measurements as this article is more a proof of concept rather than following the bouncing ball (and I misplaced my tape measure).
For all you nosey parkers that paid attention, here are some pickies of the original circle cutting, come sanding jigs,
-- There's two ways to do things... My way or the right way.. LBD