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Retro Fitted 1950 Craftsman TS

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Project by UnionLabel posted 01-18-2010 05:23 AM 2360 views 2 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

These are pictures of my hard working TS. Has a 1 1/2hp Leeson motor, Link belt, machined pulleys and fresh bearings on her arbor. I also have installed a Shop Fox fence system. This fence was no picnic to install. First, my son and I had to level the table saw to the floor. Now the angle iron tracks are heavy and awkward, so we used a come-along as a hoist and suspended the angle iron using straps. We drilled and tapped the cast iron top for 3/8-16 bolts and attached the tracks to the saw.
This saw was heavy to begin with, but now it is an elephant. Next project is to build a tablesaw cabinet with 4” casters to make it easier to move.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.





16 comments so far

View anson's profile

anson

35 posts in 1716 days


#1 posted 01-18-2010 05:40 AM

do you know how to set up frence silo table

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4826 posts in 2547 days


#2 posted 01-18-2010 03:08 PM

I had that saw. What a work horse. My father bought it for me on the day I was born in 1954. He used it to remodel two homes, as did I. It went through several motors, bearings, fences, etc. I finally retired it two years ago. I gave it to a friend, and he hopes to take it to the next generation.

(If you ever need an excuse to buy a new tool, use the one my Dad did and buy it “for the children”).

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14125 posts in 2256 days


#3 posted 01-18-2010 03:38 PM

New Fence System – Ok, I believe it was no picnic work, and you did very well.
My question; can’t we use the old bolts ( the bolts come with the original fence) if we opt not to drill and tap the table top but drill the new holes on the angle irons instead? Because I intended to buy aftermarket fence that may not have bolts’ mounting hole of the same size & position.
Thanks for sharing.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4826 posts in 2547 days


#4 posted 01-18-2010 03:48 PM

WoodWorm,

I drilled the saw, not the fence when I did mine. It is really easy to drill. I was amazed.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1865 days


#5 posted 01-18-2010 04:51 PM

I really thought about drilling the tracks to use the old bolts, but the reinforcing webs were in the way, the old bolts were 5/16 diameter. I called Grizzly, they stated that since the tracks were 84” long, they required 3/8-16 bolts and also up graded to grade 8, which is case hardened. This system weighs over 150 lbs. with the legs. To me it made more sense to drill the saw than the rails. We slotted the rail holes slightly anyway because it needed to be adjustable up and down. We also used Locktite blue and torqued each bolt to 40 ft lbs to gaurd against vibration

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1168 posts in 1747 days


#6 posted 01-18-2010 07:02 PM

I also have the same saw. I need to replace the bearings as the run out is approaching .015”. I use the saw as a 2nd table saw and a base for my home made router table. I put the saw on a plywood base that acts as dust catcher and storage for stuff.

Great to keep the old working!

-- Chris K

View Mean_Dean's profile

Mean_Dean

1499 posts in 1812 days


#7 posted 01-18-2010 09:23 PM

I have pretty much the same saw myself!

Which leads me to a queston. Is that a zero-clearance insert you’ve got there? if so, where did you get it, or did you make it yourself? I’d love to have one on my saw!

-- Dean

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1865 days


#8 posted 01-19-2010 03:51 AM

I purchased mine through Peachtree Tools.com a while ago. At that time they were 17.99 bucks each. now they are 26.99. The model # is CR-3. If you find them cheaper, please let me know. Thanks.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View ChuckM's profile

ChuckM

501 posts in 2332 days


#9 posted 01-20-2010 01:44 AM

To minimize kickbacks, I recommend adding a splitter on your zero clearance insert if you don’t plan to use the blade guard and splitter.

Mean Dean: to make your own zci: check out this Shopnotes step by step vid:

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/097/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-insert/

For dado users:

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/146/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-dado-insert/

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1865 days


#10 posted 01-20-2010 03:24 AM

Unfortunately, it is a bigger pain in the butt to build one for this saw. There are 4 major relief areas that are only 3/16” thick, also 2 side inserted adjusters to take-up slack. I could make my own I guess, but I would have to deal with phenolic stock so I can mill the various places necessary for the fit. Guard?? This saw never had a guard that I can remember and I’ve been around this saw for over 50 years. I have thought about installing a brass pin as a splitter in the ZCI. I mainly rely on a push block system my grandfather used. It consists of 2 – 2×2’s, a handle and a 1 1/4 strip of hardboard. The 2×2’s are about 6” each, join them together to form an “L”. Now with the “L” facing in the opposite direction, put your handle on, then attach the hardboard to the back leg of the el with it proud of the bottom of the 2×2 by a 1/4” with double sided tape. When the saw blade gets done chewing up the hard board just pull it off and replace it. If the 2×2 won’t fit between the blade and the fence, then maybe you should be trimming this with a router table, feather board and a fence.
I still have all of my fingers. I don’t wear gloves, jewelry, head phones or loose clothing. I do wear safety glasses and a mask and the dust collection system runs anytime there is a piece of machinery running. I am never complacent while any of my machinery is running.
This saw has cut alot of wood in its days and I hope it cuts a ton more before I give up the ghost.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View ChuckM's profile

ChuckM

501 posts in 2332 days


#11 posted 01-20-2010 04:05 AM

Hi UnionLabel,

Understandably an old machine like yours must have its limitations. May be this would help address the splitter concern:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=51151&cat=1,41080,51225

I think that splitter is also available at other stores like Rockler or Woodcraft.

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2965 days


#12 posted 04-02-2010 09:49 PM

I think a lot of kick back is caused by sawing with the blade too high.

I always adjust it to about 1/8” above the work piece.

That prevents it from grabbing, & picking up the piece, & throwing it.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1865 days


#13 posted 04-02-2010 10:00 PM

I agree, I use a stop block against the main fence when ever I can, and try and never run the saw blade more than 1/4 inch above the material I am cutting.

I also like to make my trim cuts with the waste to the left of the blade.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2965 days


#14 posted 04-10-2010 12:38 AM

V belts come in 4 widths, A, B, C, & D.

A is 3/8”

B is 1/2”

C is 5/8”

D is 3/4”

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1865 days


#15 posted 04-10-2010 01:01 AM

Ok, you want the pulleys # MSP2058 and MPS2358. The 2 1/4 goes on the saw arbor and the the other to the electric motor. The V-belt, you need to measure your pulley. The belt does not have to sit all the way in the pulley any way.

However, your saws performance will increase, while the noise level will dissipate with a link belt 21/32 in width.

Also when you set your motor tension, make sure there is a little slack in the belt but the motor pulley should not spin for a long time so the belt can catch up either.

I hope you got the web addresses for the suppliers.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

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