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"Mollusk" Bandsaw Box

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Project by CreekWoodworker posted 1562 days ago 3839 views 4 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Just for the fun of it and a little practice with my bandsaw, I built a bandsaw box. This box is red oak, stained gun stock, and finished with 3 coats of tung oil and polished with paste wax. I used medium blue flock in the drawer. This was also my first time to use flock. It was a project I was doing for practice but it turned out really nice, so decided to give it to my wife. She wasted no time filing it with ear rings. LOL

I got the pattern from “Scuplted Band Saw Boxes” by Lois Keener Ventura. This box is called “Mollusk” so I guess it should be good to store pearls. I was inspired by LJ CDCJR to give it a try after after seeing his post. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/24318#comment-513746

Cheers,
Mike

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction





10 comments so far

View SawDustnSplinters's profile

SawDustnSplinters

321 posts in 2282 days


#1 posted 1562 days ago

That is a sweet box, I like the blue felt, really pops… I think I have that book but never tried to do one of those designs yet, but it is on that long list :)

I was curious were you able to accomplish that box using one size bandsaw blade, or did you have to change sizes?

I played around with bandsaw boxes a little, Been mostly doing boxes like that out of natural edge logs…
I found you can cut a secret compartment in the back of the drawer, PM me and I will tell you how for your next one…

Nice looking project and thanx

-- Frank, Dallas,TX , http://www.allthingsrustix.com , “I have a REALLY BIG chainsaw”

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1798 days


#2 posted 1562 days ago

Frank, I use a 1/2” blade to square up the block but later wondered why I needed to. I had two flat surfaces after glueing the boards together, the front and the back. Since the back surface is on the table when cutting out the pattern I’m not really convinced I need to square it up. Anyway, I switched to a 3/16” blade to cut out the box body and the drawer.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View SawDustnSplinters's profile

SawDustnSplinters

321 posts in 2282 days


#3 posted 1562 days ago

Hey Creek, naw that makes sense, the 1/2 inch is a good stable blade for medium scale resawing, and then the 3/16 to make the radius turns….Yea even if you had a little drift the log or blank goes back the way it was cut ? A little sanding or filling and you can not even tell…Pretty much my method is similar, I cut or plane a flat bottom side, then cut about 3/4 off the back, set it aside, switch to a 1/4 – 3/16 blade find a good spot to do an entry cut (like an existing knot or discoloration), cut out the cavity, glue the back, back on the main box and sand and fill and hide all seams as well as entry cuts.. :) And I perty much do the same with the drawer or drawers, I cut the back and front off, cut/carve my cavity out, (Now at this point you can cut the drawer shallow, and cut a hidden drawer that slides out the back underneath it, kinda of horseshoe shaped, but you have to glue the back on first? cause the cut will go thru it to the back, so you can slide it out from the back of the drawer when open and out in your hand…) glue the front on, sand, fill, hide cuts, etc..

Sometimes after all this cutting fronts and backs off I lose some due to kerf, I sometimes glue 2 to 3 .5 inch x .5 inch 1/16 to 1/8 thick shims against the inside back of the drawer cavity so it evens out with the log/body edge to the front..

Ok I got myself confused, hehe, anyway good job on your project Mike and Be well….I need to go light the fire it is going to get darn cold tonight :)

-- Frank, Dallas,TX , http://www.allthingsrustix.com , “I have a REALLY BIG chainsaw”

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109273 posts in 2077 days


#4 posted 1562 days ago

nice work

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View bamasawduster's profile

bamasawduster

314 posts in 2094 days


#5 posted 1562 days ago

Mighty fine box there, Mike

-- Gary, Huntsville. Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do.

View Indiana_Parrothead's profile

Indiana_Parrothead

108 posts in 1656 days


#6 posted 1562 days ago

Nice box Mike, getting some good use out of that new bandsaw. So what else you working on now?

-- We are the people our parents warned us about.

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1798 days


#7 posted 1561 days ago

Hey Parrothead, I love that bandsaw. I’ll be building more bandsaw boxes, but first I’m going to build a napkin holder like the one posted by LJ ProbablyLost http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18513. I purchased the plans and will use Cherry and Purple Heart. I’ve finally complete the DVD/BD hutch I started in September. I’m waiting for the finish to cure before delivering it to my son. I’ll post pictures then.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1798 days


#8 posted 1561 days ago

Frank, I just checked out your website http://www.allthingsrustix.com. You have some awesome bandsaw boxes! I’ve never seen designs like those before, you have a unique talent. I like your idea for creating a secret compartment.

I also like your idea for leveling out the bottom of the drawer with shims. I was wondering about how to correct for that when I built this box. I was thinking maybe rounding the bottom of the drawer on the bottom more than the top to make it look even. Thanks for the suggestion.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1108 posts in 1560 days


#9 posted 1560 days ago

Hey Mike,

Sorry I’m a beginner.

How did you achieve this? Is the entry point on the left?

Thanks,
Steven

-- shdesign3.com

View CreekWoodworker's profile

CreekWoodworker

409 posts in 1798 days


#10 posted 1560 days ago

Steven,
I’m a newbie and this was my first bandsaw box. Yes the entry point is on the left, I basically cut the core of the box coming out through the entry point. In this box I glued and clamped the entry point back together, but that is not necessary. Some boxes use the entry point as a design feature by rounding over the entry cut line. Either way looks very nice. The concept behind a bandsaw box is to cut off the backside first (although I think you probably could leave it on until after the next step), then cut the outer edges, then cut the front off, cut out the drawer core. Follow the same process to cut out the drawer cavity except cut both the back and front off first. Then glue the fronts and backs on and trim the back to the box. followed by a lot of shaping and sanding. I don’t have a spindle sander so I use a #50 Nicholson rasp to get the shape close then sanded by hand.

If you are really interested in bandsaw boxes, I highly recommend “Scuplted Band Saw Boxes” by Lois Keener Ventura. This book contains step by step directions and patterns. I made a copy of her pattern and use spray on adhesive to glue it to the box. The pattern even has arrows to show you which direction to saw.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing your projects.

-- Mike ...Success is often the result of taking a misstep in the right direction

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