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Here is a link to my tutorial.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9415

I am posting
more details on the Bad Moon Rising box as requested. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18017
There seems to be a glitch in how I was doing it on that projects, page so I am doing it this way. Please read my tutorial that covers the "Dunes" box, but should help you get answers to your questions on construction, both of these boxes are very similar. Feel free to ask any questions on the specifics of making a box like this. Its a challenge, but with a few tools and careful planning, anyone can do it.

( Type in "art box" to see what others have done so far, and more are on the way. )

Just do yourself a favor and cut out two sets of all the parts and machine them side x side, one in your wood of choice and one in poplar or alder, etc. A model box will help you relax and let you make adjustments as needed. I think you get the idea.
Andy

#1 picture= the lid with medallion and tray. The medallion and tray are upside down in this shot.

#2 picture= the lid with the machining done for the handle guide pins,the hole for the two magnets (one pulls the handle in and the other opposes the magnet that will be in the edge of the medallion.When the handle is pulled out a little bit, it brings the guide pins with it, which in turn releases the medallion.The opposing super magnets cause the medallion to pop up just enough so you can get the edge of a finger tip under one of the corners that has been cut away.
In the back ground you can see the holes for the two barrel hinges that fit into mating holes in the edge of the backside of the medallion. I did this by fitting the medallion to the recess in the lid and held it in place with double stick tape,stood it on edge against a fence at the drill press and bored holes through both pieces at the same time. I plugged the entry holes in the back edge of the lid with maple plugs I cut.

#3 picture=This was the original medallion, and is a piece of western big leaf maple, a chunk of burl. Though its pretty, I decided on that piece of Myrtle with the knot because I was trying to enter this box in both parts of the contest. ( I was too late by one hour )

#4 picture=Another picture of the lid after milling.

#5 picture= The handle after cutting the rabbits. I often will cit a piece long enough for 2-3 handles because its easier to work with, then I cut them to length after. To line up the guide pin holes in the lid and handle I drilled the ones in the lid first,inserted sharpened brass pins, and after shimming and clamping the handle blank in position, I tapped the pins in and this left the location marks I needed to bore the handle.

#6 picture= a shot of the back showing the hinges in the medallion.

Close up of the handle showing the magnet that keeps it in place and the pins that it not only slides in and out on, but they act as the catch keep the flip up medallion closed. Its not the best method but it works.
This is a full tenon and is more difficult to get the face of the handle to fit against the lid doing it this way. I mostly do a floating tenon now to hold my handles in place. It very easy to cut a flat edge on the lid and handle, then route a 1/4'' slot in both faces on the router table and insert a tenon of any wood you have.

Tip:
I make the tenon a little short in length so I can slide the handle sideways to center it in the lid. I also make it a little narrow so I am sure it will let the handle seat fully. I always dry fit all the parts. They should fit snug without forcing. Before gluing mark center on lid and handle. Once you put glue on the tenon you need to hurry and fit it all in place pretty quickly before the tenon swells and wont let it all draw together fully. This has happened to me and its fixable but not fun.

Please tag your box "art box", and everyones should show up on the same pages.
It would be great to see everyones in a group.
Andy

handle-fin

This shows the recess cut into the top of the lid where the medallion and tray set into. Here you can see the barrel hinges that lift the medallion.
routed-tray

This shows the medallion after the recess for the tray was routed out.

Rout-jig

Here I am routing the mortise in the lid to receive the tenon on the handle.
routing

This shows the unfinished right side of the box with a roofing nail hinging the tray. Still a ways to go yet.
side

Gallery

Comments

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Thanks Andy. I appreciate it.
I wish we could post more than 6 pictures for each project. I'd like to post pre finished pictures of my pieces too.

I wish I could pick out pieces of wood like I see you do. I have an automatic want to not choose the pieces with defects or anomalies. With an engineering mind I have a hard time not wanting everything to be perfectly clean and straight. I'm trying to pick the pieces with a little more character.
Thanks for the inspiration.
 

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Thank you Andy. That sheds a lot of light on the construction. Very fine piece of engineering. Thank you for posting.
 

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Wow Andy you have great talent for design and" how to "details ,a great job.
 

· In Loving Memory
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Too much detail Andy. I need it all on paper with a fit tab A. into tab B. and so on, you know what I mean. If you adopt me I could learn all this first hand. Heck all the kids are gone, it would just be me and the little women. I don't eat much. Think it over and let me know, just think of the tax breaks.
 

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You're so imaginative - cool idea, great details!
 

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Superb Andy, thanks so much for taking the time to share the details!!!
 

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Fantastic Andy. I want to grow up to be just like you.
I'm about to wind up a major project, so maybe I'll finally have time to try some of your great ideas.

Thanks
Kent
 

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Andy: Some great construction details. I'm glad that you pointed me to the original box, because somehow I missed it. Great job on your boxes.
 

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this box is sweeeeeeet i like the little tray under the medalion thats a neat trick. ;-) Hey Andy, is that a marble top on yaour router or is it just plastic laminate?
 

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Some cool designing going on here! Great to watch and learn, thanks….........
 

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Wow not just a simple box for sure! You really put alot of thought into this .
Great how too blog, Thanks for taking the time and posting it …

Where did you get the hinges?
 

· In Loving Memory
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Those details really have the WOW factor Andy. I think it is wonderful that you are willing to share your creative unique ideas with us. Great work. Keep it up!
 

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Andy, glad I caught on to this post as I had not seen the previous. Wanted to thank you for your detailed post. It is full of great inspiration… I have been turning bowls and pens, pencils etc…for presents…was also going to try to make a decorative box for a present - Your design would be quite a challenge to my skills…but would love to try a similar style….but I must say that this was an extremely clever design and the artistry is remakable. It is truly one of a kind…the knot is magical in its ability to look like something…I can see a face in there too…..I would suspect that it becomes an heirloom piece.
 

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It appears that there are more of you interested in the details than I thought. I am glad its of benefit to you all.
Code:
 Everyone,thank you so much for taking time from this busy time of year to voice your appreciations.
@Rick-you are doing just fine, you have great skills and a good eye for design. You will get a feel for using wilder woods as time goes on, or maybe not, that may not be your style. What matters most is that you are saying what you want to.
@Brad, I knew you would appreciate a little more info :)
@Mike, thats does sound tempting. I will need to talk to my wife though.
Kent,Good to hear it, let me know if I can help.ha
Code:
 Ike, thats a piece of Corian or HiMacs acrylic. I really need to fit another piece under my router though, that one is sloppy since I did it in a big hurry and screwed it up. Its an excellent material for inserts and can be bought from a countertop fabrication shop.Just ask for a sink cutout. Its 1/2'' thick and cuts with any carbide tools and is dimensionably stable.<br />@RJ, I got these from Woodcraft for about $6 each.<br />FYI: I have mixed feelings about these hinges so here are a few words of caution.They are Soss brand barrel hinges,also called concealed or even referred to as secret,hidden hinges.These are 10mm and I bought the 10mm drill bit also, which was about $8, and is absolutely nescessary. They do come in other sizes, but this is right for this application. On softer woods they tend to be a tad too loose and on harder woods like Bubinga I could barely get them in. I have checked several hinges with calipers and they are very precisely made,but if I bore test holes in differant woods the fit varies... sometimes,but not always. Its not consistant. It appears to be how the fibers cut with the drill bit. A faster drill speed and a slower plunge on the drill press gives the best results.Just be sure and drill a piece of the same wood and the same grain orientation before drilling holes in your box.You really need to be gentle with them *or they will distort and break.* If they go in tight,you will never get them out without destroying them so be sure and orient the bend straight forward and back. I recommend wrapping a dowel with fine sandpaper and working on the mortises until the bit just fits snug. Make sure the lock scew is backed out first, it is in the top of each barrel. Sometimes they still move in and out when you operate the lid, so I put a few drops of Ca glue on the side of each barrel and slide them back into the holes.<br />
Stefang,thanks and your welcome.
@Joe,thanks for the link,that is kind of you.
@Reggie,I am sure thats a face in there too :)
The designer boxes are a little quicker to build and have a lift off lid, so they dont require buying or installing hinges.Consider that design if like.
 

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Andy, you are a busy guy. You make amazing boxes that break all rules. It's so kind of you to explain your procedures & help the rest of us dream of our own ways of creativity. Your work is truly an inspiration to the craft that we here hunger to make ourselves. I'm making some boxes now & if you don't mind will like to explore some of your methods as some conturing & spline joints. The fear of being different has many of us locked in a box(ha) but that is what is so great about Lumberjocks. This site has surely unlocked many a frozen imagination thanks to people like you. Happy Holidays
 

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Studie,Thank you and your welcome. I too am timid try new ideas and really mull it over from several angles before putting it in action. Sometimes the end result is different than my vision, but that may be because I still dont have the skill to do it, or it wasnt as good in real life as I imagined. I have become more comfortable spending the time needed in R&D instead of being so impatient. I draw full scale in 2D and then model new designs in a lesser wood to work out the bugs. Sometimes I color and shade areas to get a feel for the contrasts. Good proportions are key to a good design and you will know it when you see it. I really became comfortabe with this approach when I designed this clock. I spent more time drawing than cutting.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/4369
In this example, my goal wasnt just to make a clock, even a good one. No, I was wanting to express what I love about the Arts and Crafts movement and the Art Deco style in my own way, using elements from both. I really wanted to say something but wasnt sure how, so I kept playing with it until it looked right. Then I had to figure out how to make it and take my time to do it well.
The best skill I am still honing is patience. When I was younger I was more about "well thats going to have to be good enough because I have already spent too much time on it and cut up the wood".haha
Thanks for listening.
p.s. please feel free to use any of my ideas, I am glad to help.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I really appreciate it.

Doug
 
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