Project Information
Here is a link to my tutorial.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9415
I am posting
more details on the Bad Moon Rising box as requested. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18017
There seems to be a glitch in how I was doing it on that projects, page so I am doing it this way. Please read my tutorial that covers the "Dunes" box, but should help you get answers to your questions on construction, both of these boxes are very similar. Feel free to ask any questions on the specifics of making a box like this. Its a challenge, but with a few tools and careful planning, anyone can do it.
( Type in "art box" to see what others have done so far, and more are on the way. )
Just do yourself a favor and cut out two sets of all the parts and machine them side x side, one in your wood of choice and one in poplar or alder, etc. A model box will help you relax and let you make adjustments as needed. I think you get the idea.
Andy
#1 picture= the lid with medallion and tray. The medallion and tray are upside down in this shot.
#2 picture= the lid with the machining done for the handle guide pins,the hole for the two magnets (one pulls the handle in and the other opposes the magnet that will be in the edge of the medallion.When the handle is pulled out a little bit, it brings the guide pins with it, which in turn releases the medallion.The opposing super magnets cause the medallion to pop up just enough so you can get the edge of a finger tip under one of the corners that has been cut away.
In the back ground you can see the holes for the two barrel hinges that fit into mating holes in the edge of the backside of the medallion. I did this by fitting the medallion to the recess in the lid and held it in place with double stick tape,stood it on edge against a fence at the drill press and bored holes through both pieces at the same time. I plugged the entry holes in the back edge of the lid with maple plugs I cut.
#3 picture=This was the original medallion, and is a piece of western big leaf maple, a chunk of burl. Though its pretty, I decided on that piece of Myrtle with the knot because I was trying to enter this box in both parts of the contest. ( I was too late by one hour )
#4 picture=Another picture of the lid after milling.
#5 picture= The handle after cutting the rabbits. I often will cit a piece long enough for 2-3 handles because its easier to work with, then I cut them to length after. To line up the guide pin holes in the lid and handle I drilled the ones in the lid first,inserted sharpened brass pins, and after shimming and clamping the handle blank in position, I tapped the pins in and this left the location marks I needed to bore the handle.
#6 picture= a shot of the back showing the hinges in the medallion.
Close up of the handle showing the magnet that keeps it in place and the pins that it not only slides in and out on, but they act as the catch keep the flip up medallion closed. Its not the best method but it works.
This is a full tenon and is more difficult to get the face of the handle to fit against the lid doing it this way. I mostly do a floating tenon now to hold my handles in place. It very easy to cut a flat edge on the lid and handle, then route a 1/4'' slot in both faces on the router table and insert a tenon of any wood you have.
Tip:
I make the tenon a little short in length so I can slide the handle sideways to center it in the lid. I also make it a little narrow so I am sure it will let the handle seat fully. I always dry fit all the parts. They should fit snug without forcing. Before gluing mark center on lid and handle. Once you put glue on the tenon you need to hurry and fit it all in place pretty quickly before the tenon swells and wont let it all draw together fully. This has happened to me and its fixable but not fun.
Please tag your box "art box", and everyones should show up on the same pages.
It would be great to see everyones in a group.
Andy
This shows the recess cut into the top of the lid where the medallion and tray set into. Here you can see the barrel hinges that lift the medallion.
This shows the medallion after the recess for the tray was routed out.
Here I am routing the mortise in the lid to receive the tenon on the handle.
This shows the unfinished right side of the box with a roofing nail hinging the tray. Still a ways to go yet.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9415
I am posting
more details on the Bad Moon Rising box as requested. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18017
There seems to be a glitch in how I was doing it on that projects, page so I am doing it this way. Please read my tutorial that covers the "Dunes" box, but should help you get answers to your questions on construction, both of these boxes are very similar. Feel free to ask any questions on the specifics of making a box like this. Its a challenge, but with a few tools and careful planning, anyone can do it.
( Type in "art box" to see what others have done so far, and more are on the way. )
Just do yourself a favor and cut out two sets of all the parts and machine them side x side, one in your wood of choice and one in poplar or alder, etc. A model box will help you relax and let you make adjustments as needed. I think you get the idea.
Andy
#1 picture= the lid with medallion and tray. The medallion and tray are upside down in this shot.
#2 picture= the lid with the machining done for the handle guide pins,the hole for the two magnets (one pulls the handle in and the other opposes the magnet that will be in the edge of the medallion.When the handle is pulled out a little bit, it brings the guide pins with it, which in turn releases the medallion.The opposing super magnets cause the medallion to pop up just enough so you can get the edge of a finger tip under one of the corners that has been cut away.
In the back ground you can see the holes for the two barrel hinges that fit into mating holes in the edge of the backside of the medallion. I did this by fitting the medallion to the recess in the lid and held it in place with double stick tape,stood it on edge against a fence at the drill press and bored holes through both pieces at the same time. I plugged the entry holes in the back edge of the lid with maple plugs I cut.
#3 picture=This was the original medallion, and is a piece of western big leaf maple, a chunk of burl. Though its pretty, I decided on that piece of Myrtle with the knot because I was trying to enter this box in both parts of the contest. ( I was too late by one hour )
#4 picture=Another picture of the lid after milling.
#5 picture= The handle after cutting the rabbits. I often will cit a piece long enough for 2-3 handles because its easier to work with, then I cut them to length after. To line up the guide pin holes in the lid and handle I drilled the ones in the lid first,inserted sharpened brass pins, and after shimming and clamping the handle blank in position, I tapped the pins in and this left the location marks I needed to bore the handle.
#6 picture= a shot of the back showing the hinges in the medallion.
Close up of the handle showing the magnet that keeps it in place and the pins that it not only slides in and out on, but they act as the catch keep the flip up medallion closed. Its not the best method but it works.
This is a full tenon and is more difficult to get the face of the handle to fit against the lid doing it this way. I mostly do a floating tenon now to hold my handles in place. It very easy to cut a flat edge on the lid and handle, then route a 1/4'' slot in both faces on the router table and insert a tenon of any wood you have.
Tip:
I make the tenon a little short in length so I can slide the handle sideways to center it in the lid. I also make it a little narrow so I am sure it will let the handle seat fully. I always dry fit all the parts. They should fit snug without forcing. Before gluing mark center on lid and handle. Once you put glue on the tenon you need to hurry and fit it all in place pretty quickly before the tenon swells and wont let it all draw together fully. This has happened to me and its fixable but not fun.
Please tag your box "art box", and everyones should show up on the same pages.
It would be great to see everyones in a group.
Andy
This shows the recess cut into the top of the lid where the medallion and tray set into. Here you can see the barrel hinges that lift the medallion.
This shows the medallion after the recess for the tray was routed out.
Here I am routing the mortise in the lid to receive the tenon on the handle.
This shows the unfinished right side of the box with a roofing nail hinging the tray. Still a ways to go yet.