|Project by Andy||posted 1464 days ago||5784 views||57 times favorited||56 comments|
I made this box for Lori, a coworker who is moving away today. We have worked together for about 10 years and I wanted to give her something nice.
The medallion is simply 3 thin slices of Cocobolo Rosewood seperated with thin bands of Maple and Wenge. How I did this:
After building the box body I routed the recess for the lid and rough cut the lid to size, just a little oversized, and set it aside. Then I sliced off the back and front edges of the lid blank on the table saw. That gave me two strips about 3/4’‘T x 1.5’‘W x 11’‘L, and the center piece. I then took the center and sliced about 1/4’‘off the top. Then I cross cut about 2.25’’ off each end of the center section, which left the lid in 6 pieces. The top of the center section was set aside for another project.
What I am doing: I am making a well ( or recess ) for the Cocobolo panels to fit down into. I dont want them going full depth, and I want the bottom of the lid to look like solid Bloodwood with a simple inlay. This is actually about as easy as routing out for the medallion like I typically do.
Why didnt I just route out the center like my Art Boxes and insert the trypdich panel?
First, I wanted to inlay the maple strips to add a more formal look. I could have just cut kerfs and slipped in the maple inlay, but I wasnt sure how much shaping I was going to do along both edges and wanted to be sure the ends of the inlay didnt just stop abrubtly. Look at the third picture and notice how the inlay continues smoothly down into the box. And its less exacting to sandwich a narrow strip between two boards than it is to fit an inlay.
Second, I didnt want rounded corners on the panel that a routed recess would have given me. It just wouldnt have allowed the border inlays to reach the maple inlay at the top and bottom.
I made the center panel by first selecting a figured board that varied in color and pattern, but also making sure that the pattern shifted from top to bottom. If the pattern didnt shift then I would have got three identical slices side x side. I was wanting more variation than even these, but its what I had on hand. After cutting the slices, I made some thin strips of Maple and Wenge ( about 1/8’’ thick and 1’’ wide x 18’’ long, which I glued up face to face, and then clamped them between 2 boards. After it dried, I sliced strips off of it on the bandsaw and sanded the faces smooth and repeated until I had 3 strips which gave me a little extra. Then I cut these to the same length as the panels and placed these in between each panel and on the ends and glued these edge to edge.
TIP: Make an assembly jig.
I took a scrap of 3/4’’ plywood about 6’’ wide and 12’’ long and added a lip to the back edge which was about 1/4’’ taller and then did the same on the left end.This gave me a backboard and end board to keep everything lined up as I glued all these pieces together. I put a strip of masking tape on the face of each of the stops to prevent glueing my panel to them too.
To aid glueing up, I cut three narrow strips of double stick tape and placed one at the top,center,bottom of the deck of the assembly jig. Its easier to peel the panel off if you use narrow strips, its pretty fragile.
After glueing all the edges together, I clamped them down onto the sticky tape with spring clamps and blocks of wood. I have also used stop blocks at the front and right end and tapped wedges in to draw the pieces all together.Whatever method you decide to try, test it out before you get glue on everything :-)
After the glue dried, I cleaned up the bottom and then cut the panel to just slightly longer and wider than the thinner center cection of the lid, then I shaved it to fit exactly.
Note: Be sure and mark center of both the panel and the lid center it will be glued to, so when its all together the middle panel is in the center of your lid.
After that was glued up and dry, I then edged it with thin strips of Maple,and then reassembled the lid parts, and glued it all back together.
This design resulted from the fact that I was running out of time to have this comepleted for yesterdays going away party, and I have been wanting to come up with a new spin on dividers, but mostly from the simple fact that I really dont like making dividers at all. They take a lot of time and they are seldom what everyone wants and limits the boxes use for some people. These are not “jewelry boxes” exactly, I dont like to direct their usage. So, I usually make the dividers removable.
This design came to when I was messing about with some thin slats. Its pretty obvious in the photo, but just to clarify, the center slat is about 1/8’‘x 3/4’’ and then the two bent ones are about 1/16’’ x 5/8’’. This allows the two thinner slats to tuck into the corners and bend into the next one. I really like the look. Just be sure to use a strong straight grained wood and try it several times before finishing it. I eased the edges an each end to prevent scratching the inside of the box.
I see dark storm clouds in the distance rolling over the desert, and onto the black mesa in the handle.
Others see a volcano or outer space. Let me know what you see :-)
The box is Bloodwood, panels and handle are Cocobolo, accents are Maple and Wenge.
Finish is Deft brand semi gloss spray lacquer.
Black velvet liner.
-- If I can do it, so can you. www.artboxesbyandy.com