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Dressing table

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Project by DaveJ posted 08-30-2007 03:32 AM 2188 views 2 times favorited 32 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Maple and mahogany dressing table built for my wife, Debi. Completed June, 2007. I plan to add a matching wall mirror and upholstered chair “soon.”

The big challenge for me on this project was the curved top and drawers. This was also my first experience spraying, which I was pretty happy with. I used a water based acrylic to reduce yellowing.

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID





32 comments so far

View Karson's profile

Karson

34915 posts in 3149 days


#1 posted 08-30-2007 03:35 AM

Nice job on the top and drawers. Did you pattern routing to cut the top?

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#2 posted 08-30-2007 03:54 AM

Thanks Karson. I created two templates using a fairing curve, one concave, the other convex. I transferred the template outline to the top pieces, rough cut with a bandsaw, then finished it up with a flush-cut router bit. I followed the same process for the “false” drawer fronts, except cleaned them up with a sander (tough to get a router bit that tall). Then I made a form using the same templates and laminated/bent three 1/8” maple pieces for the ultimate drawer fronts.

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View Karson's profile

Karson

34915 posts in 3149 days


#3 posted 08-30-2007 03:58 AM

Are you stating that the drawer fronts are 3/8” thick. They look thicker.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View Dan'um Style's profile

Dan'um Style

13261 posts in 2731 days


#4 posted 08-30-2007 04:05 AM

Hello DAVE
Great project ! really awesome work. beautiful choice of materials and methods. Warm Welcome to lj’s !!!

DAN

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4438 posts in 2711 days


#5 posted 08-30-2007 04:09 AM

Welcome to Lumberjocks. Great first project. keep ‘em coming!!

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#6 posted 08-30-2007 04:13 AM

Here are some “under construction” pictures.

The template:
P3230138

Partial top glue-up:

P3240139

Laminating form:

P5270152

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#7 posted 08-30-2007 04:19 AM

Karson asked “Are you stating that the drawer fronts are 3/8” thick. They look thicker.”

I used a “false front” from thick maple, cut inside and outside to match the profile of the top. (There’s probably a name for what I’m calling the false front, but I can’t think of it.) Then the “real front,” from the 3/8” lamination was attached.

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12302 posts in 2846 days


#8 posted 08-30-2007 04:19 AM

Great post. Anything special related to the pins on the drawers? Just dowels?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View yakerjax's profile

yakerjax

60 posts in 2708 days


#9 posted 08-30-2007 04:22 AM

That is really pretty… It looks like pretty intense work tho.. Did you take all those little blocks and cut them out and glue them to get the curved look? What type of try are you using?? You did a really good job…

Cheryl

View MattD's profile

MattD

149 posts in 2693 days


#10 posted 08-30-2007 04:25 AM

Very impressive work. I appreciate the matched grain across the drawer fronts and the drawer lock and pin detail. The angled detail on the sides really adds to this too. Is this your own design?

-- Matt - Syracuse, NY

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#11 posted 08-30-2007 04:30 AM

Wow. Thanks for all the nice – and quick – comments and questions.

WayneC – I used a rabbeted half dovetail on the drawers and added the small pins for a little more strength. I wasn’t really thinking looks, but I like the way they turned out.

You’ll see that the sides of the two outer drawers are asymmetrical. The outside side is a couple of inches shorter than the inside side. As you might be able to tell from this picture, I cut the front rabbet on the long end first on a 1.5” (?) block of maple, then glued to this a second 1.5” block of maple and cut the other front rabbet. I used this approach because I cut the rabbets on a router table (no handcut dovetails for me – sorry).

P5170146

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#12 posted 08-30-2007 04:41 AM

yakerjax asked: “Did you take all those little blocks and cut them out and glue them to get the curved look?”
I first bent a long piece of 1/4” stock to get a pleasing look – this is the fairing curve. I then glued the small blocks to attach the curve to a piece of MDF to make the convex template. Then a second 1/4” piece is butted up to the first, and the same “glue a billion blocks” technique is used to make the matching concave template. I learned this approach from a FWW article from a few years back. I can easily get a issue number if anyone is interested.

“What type of try are you using??” – Sorry, don’t understand the question…

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View DaveJ's profile

DaveJ

71 posts in 2671 days


#13 posted 08-30-2007 04:47 AM

MattD asked: “Is this your own design?”

Yes, although I borrowed some design elements and techniques from others. I managed to come up with the technique I described above for joining the asymmetrical drawers (but I won’t claim that this was original or even the best approach).

-- Dave J. Eagle, ID

View cajunpen's profile

cajunpen

14429 posts in 2814 days


#14 posted 08-30-2007 08:19 AM

Very nice piece and Welcome to our little Community. Got to reall appreciate a craftsman that has wooden floors in his shop. Got to be easier on the feet that the cold, hard concrete in my cramped shop. I really like your detailed explanation of your project.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

View Robb's profile

Robb

660 posts in 2682 days


#15 posted 08-30-2007 09:58 AM

Beautiful piece of work! I’m intrigued by the “glue a billion blocks” method that you described. I have to confess, I don’t completely understand what it was for. Are they just a means of securing the fairing curve to the template? Is the curve removed after the blocks are in place? Sorry, I’m probably not understanding well at all what you did. Surely, the end result is pleasing! Nice work!

-- Robb

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