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Table saw Router Addition

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Project by jim C posted 12-10-2009 11:12 PM 7229 views 45 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

After posting my out-feed table project, some folks had expressed an interest in my table saw router.
This unit was purchased from MCLS, over the internet. It has a melamine surface and it’s core is MDF. The router plate is phenolic with corner set screws and magnets in the MDF for leveling. It was a fairly straight forward installation, as the unit is 27” deep and matches up real well with the Ridgid. I did have to shim out the back fence rail from the cast iron about 1/16”, as the router table was a touch wider than the cast wings. I attached it to the fence rails by counterboring 4 pockets underneath, and drilling clearance holes in the sides for 1/4” hex head bolts. The table slid right up to the cast wing, and with the clearance holes being 1/32” larger than the bolts, it was easy to line up level and even with the cast iron.
I chose a Triton 2-1/4 H.P. plunge router that comes with the crank. All you have to do is remove the springs and drill a hole through the phenolic plate for the crank. Another great feature with this router is the collet comes above the table top when cranking up, it locks with a cam action spring pin, so one hand and one wrench is all thats needed to change cutting tools. I added an auxiliary switch so there is never a need to bend down under the table. The unit is light enough so there are no issues mounted to the rails, it needs no leg supports as the beefy weight of the saw is plenty of counterbalance.

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!





13 comments so far

View SNSpencer's profile

SNSpencer

133 posts in 1750 days


#1 posted 12-10-2009 11:16 PM

Very nice, much better than the insert that I made for my table.

-- Jef Spencer - Refined Pallet - http://www.etsy.com/shop/RefinedPallet

View RexMcKinnon's profile

RexMcKinnon

2593 posts in 1833 days


#2 posted 12-11-2009 12:30 AM

Looks great Jim. Thanks for the info.

-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13337 posts in 2310 days


#3 posted 12-11-2009 12:40 AM

Nice looking router table.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19402 posts in 2488 days


#4 posted 12-11-2009 01:48 AM

Nice job Jim

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View charlie48's profile

charlie48

248 posts in 1807 days


#5 posted 12-11-2009 02:29 AM

Very nice addition to your TS.

-- Charlie............Only time will tell if it was time well spent.

View DustyB's profile

DustyB

4 posts in 1990 days


#6 posted 12-17-2009 07:05 PM

Thanks for the post Jim…I have the same table saw and have been debating stand alone router table vs. extension table. Your pictures made up my mind- I just placed an order with MLCS. I also like your outfeed table! I have also been looking for a solution for an outfeed. Workspace is limited in my garage, everything has to be mobile and space saving. Thanks again for the great ideas…

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14878 posts in 1826 days


#7 posted 12-18-2009 06:01 PM

Perfect. I will be buying one of these and have been real impressed with the Triton and have been thinking of buying one soon. Thx Jim

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View antknee3491's profile

antknee3491

53 posts in 2080 days


#8 posted 01-05-2010 06:49 PM

Is this the one you ordered:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table4.html

Can you give me some more detail on how you mounted the table to the saw? Do those bolts just extend out and slide in to the fence rail slots? How did you keep the bolts from wiggling or moving?
Thanks

View jim C's profile

jim C

1452 posts in 1736 days


#9 posted 01-05-2010 07:26 PM

Yes, that is the table I ordered.
I used regular 1/4 hex or square head bolts, put them through the side holes I drilled, leaving the nuts loose enough and slid the table between the rails. I then lightly snugged them up and tapped the table into matching up with the cast iron wing. Then I tightened the nuts after lining everything up.
Make sure the pockets you create are wide enough to get an open end wrench in to tighten the nuts. (Photo 3 & 4)
I used a forstner bit to create the pockets.

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View antknee3491's profile

antknee3491

53 posts in 2080 days


#10 posted 01-05-2010 08:34 PM

great, thanks!

View Rick Boyett's profile

Rick Boyett

167 posts in 1850 days


#11 posted 04-09-2010 05:24 PM

Hello, I’ve got a question for you. Since doing this modification, have you had any bending or flexing with the aluminium fence rails? Have you put a straight edge on it to see if the table has sagged at all?

Thanks..

View jim C's profile

jim C

1452 posts in 1736 days


#12 posted 04-10-2010 02:22 PM

I assume you mean the front and rear fence guides. No problem there. As far as the router table go’s, there appears to be a very slight sag. I believe if I re-install the box support that came with the table, it should alleviate the issue.

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View anobium's profile

anobium

64 posts in 982 days


#13 posted 12-31-2011 08:40 PM

Now I see what we were talking about earlier. I like your setup. That would be my way to go with the limited space I have. happy new year

-- Whoever finds mistakes can keep them. English is a foreign language to me.

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