|Project by splintergroup||posted 04-26-2016 05:27 PM||3102 views||15 times favorited||13 comments|
Keepsake box with some Arts and Crafts elements, two tiers of storage, and a hinged lid with built in stop.
The woods are Walnut and Apricot, finished with Watco. The removable trays are Apricot without any finish.
Interior dimensions are 3.5”h x 8”w x 6”d
It wasn’t until I sorted through the pictures that I realized the box was covered with dusty fingerprints =8^O
I’ve been experimenting with frame & panel construction for small boxes, etc. and lately have been using the following technique.
The box corners (frame sides) are made from square stock, grooved on two adjoining faces to receive the panels. The top and bottom are similar except for only a single panel groove on the top piece.
The top/bottom rails are joined to the side pieces with a half lapped miter joint. This allows the remaining box sides to interlock with built in alignment. You can see two adjacent top rails in assembly position here:
This is another view of the joint:
I really like my Freud box joint blade set. I originally bought it for box joints, but with its dead-flat cuts and precision 1/4” or 3/8” kerfs, recessed joints are a snap. It really paid off when cutting the corner into these legs.
All the walnut frame pieces are 1/2” x 1/2” except for the upper back which is a bit deeper to accommodate the hinge screws. They are all created equal on the drum sander
Some allowance for final sanding:
The top/bottom rails get their mitered half lap:
Cut the kerf to establish the depth of the lap using a tenoning jig with a backer board for tear out prevention:
Since the miter gauge has a backer board, the saw kerf left by the blade tells me exactly where to align the part to complete the miter (photo is after the miter cut is completed):
Same thing with the cut to finish the half lap. I use my square to set the piece into proper position with the backer board kerf. These techniques make the mitered half lap joint dimensionally flawless with no measuring beyond setting the blade cut depth.
The panels are Apricot harvested from my neighbors dying tree. I re-sawed these into approx. 1” slabs and let them dry about a year. Another re-sawing and pass through the drum sander gets me some 1/4” stock that I can book match if needed (only done on the lid).
I had thought about wrapping the grain around the box, but there were enough defects (small splits, checking) that finding the necessary length of clear stock would have been tough. Besides, the legs hide grain alignment issues.
Using the box joint blade to cut the corner groove into the legs make working with these small pieces easy. I could cut the curve on my router table with a template and bevel the edges first. A pass over the box joint blade (set to 45 deg.) cut the recess.
The lid is standard miter cornered frame/panel with Apricot splines for strength.
Hinge placement, leg size, and top back-bevel all came together to allow for a lid stop when the box is opened.
The interior lower recess has ‘walls’ made from unfinished Apricot and a felted floor
The walls act as rails for the two small removable trays (which also have been felted).
Another fun project! I like working out the processes to make the joints easily and with precision. Next time I’ll think more about the overall dimensions (this box came out a little too ‘chunky’ I think).
Thanks for looking!