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Tapering Jig

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Project by Endgrain posted 1597 days ago 2192 views 12 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Greetings,
I have several projects planned such as a child’s table that will require a tapering jig. I have the standard jig you can get at HF or Rockler and have used it successfully to build a small table but did not feel secure using it. I saw a new tapering jig at Rockler and thought that I might be able to build something similar. This is it! I have only test cut a few pieces but definitely feels more secure. I wanted to put a miter bar under it but my table saw is set up funny and I also wanted to change to a thinner curf blade since I am using the original one that came with the saw. Any suggestions for improvement would be greatly appreciated.





13 comments so far

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13335 posts in 2173 days


#1 posted 1597 days ago

Nice jig.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View Abe Low's profile

Abe Low

111 posts in 2346 days


#2 posted 1597 days ago

Nice job. Your are right to investigate another blade. Even the best saws rarely come with a blade suitable for doing fine work. Most folks have been happy with the Forrest Woodworker II for general work. Freud makes a very high attack blade that has each carbide tip pointed at 45 degrees. This is a great blade for cutting that expensive veneered boards with little or no tearout on the back side. Unfortunately, the sharper the blade the quicker it dulls.
There are no free lunches.

-- Abe Low, Fine furniture, Sacramento, CA

View poroskywood's profile

poroskywood

614 posts in 1865 days


#3 posted 1597 days ago

Nice Jig looks good.

I made my own also after using that blue piece of garbage. I sent it right back to Rockler stating “This was the closest I had ever come to loping my finger off and that they ought not sell such a piece of crap less soil their excellent reputation”. Sorry to rant on your post. Just seeing that jig again reminded me of my frustration and disappointment.

Your Jig is the only way to go!

Love the Forest WWII they also provide sharpening and repair service at a reasonable price.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11605 posts in 2188 days


#4 posted 1597 days ago

For what you’re doing , you can save a lot of money with a Thin Kerf Freud blade : )
I also have the WWII , but that’s on my 3hp Cabinet saw .

Great jig you have there…I really like the stops you’ve made : )
Are those HF hold downs ? I just picked some up and was wondering if you’ve had any issues with them providing they’re from HF….

-- When you arrive at my front door, please knock softly but firmly. I like soft , firm, knockers : )

View Endgrain's profile

Endgrain

13 posts in 2033 days


#5 posted 1597 days ago

Thanks for the comments. The hold downs are from HF and I haven’t put them through any real tests but these seem more than sturdy enough for the task. The length of the bolt seems to allow for a good thickness stock to be cut using the 3/4” block underneath them.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11605 posts in 2188 days


#6 posted 1597 days ago

Thanks for the feedback ..mine certainly seem sturdy as well : )

-- When you arrive at my front door, please knock softly but firmly. I like soft , firm, knockers : )

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109273 posts in 2077 days


#7 posted 1597 days ago

Looks good almost identical to the one I made

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View jockmike2's profile

jockmike2

10635 posts in 2747 days


#8 posted 1597 days ago

Great idea. You seem to be pretty handy with jigs and ideas. Good for you.

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2322 days


#9 posted 1597 days ago

This is a nice jig and certainly better constructed in my opinion, than the commercial one. I have one of those as well and, while I have used it on occasion, tapering can be done easier and safer on the jig that you built. I have an 8’ version that I use for straight lining lumber but really need to build one on this scale as well. Thanks for the inspiration.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3423 posts in 2163 days


#10 posted 1597 days ago

Nice jig, and heck of a lot safer than the ‘standard jig’ shown beside it.

Does your jig ride in the saw’s miter track, or does it index off the fence?

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Endgrain's profile

Endgrain

13 posts in 2033 days


#11 posted 1597 days ago

The jig indexes off the fence. I originally planned to use a miter track but the miter slots ride on an adjustable slider that includes the router hole on this Craftsman style saw. I also know that I will be changing the blade soon since this is the original that came with the saw. The miter track would have been the way to go for a safer cut.

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1791 posts in 1691 days


#12 posted 1596 days ago

A much safer jig, a big impovement, you’ll probably be able to work faster with the confidence that it wont kick back or stray.

-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3423 posts in 2163 days


#13 posted 1596 days ago

In addition to the safety aspect (I like all 10 of my fingers and wish to keep the matched set intact!), I think jigs like Endgrain’s are far better for making repeatable cuts, which is important if your table has more than one leg!

Right now, I have a shop-made version of the one you can buy from HF, Rockler, etc. and I hate it.

After the holidays, I am going to build a new one … I’m thinking about something similar to the one designed by Charles Neil (http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/references/taperjig.pdf)

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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