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Spalted Sycamore Live Edge Coffee Table

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Project by Vincent Nocito posted 03-09-2016 09:24 PM 2187 views 18 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a spalted sycamore live edge coffee table. It is 52” L x 18.5” H x 16-22” W. The top is 1.5” thick. The base is made from hard maple using bridle joints. The base is derived from Nakashima’s Frenchman Cove dining table. The first photo is the finished table. Photo 2 is the base parts awaiting assembly. The base is jointed to the top using #10 screws in slotted holes. Assemble of the table included the usual epoxy filling of the cracks, cutting and installing the butterfly splines (photo 4-6). The table was machine sanded to 400 grit and then hand sanded to 800. The finish is Odie’s oil and Odie’s wood butter.

Some additional photos of the repaired cracks follow:





19 comments so far

View WhattheChuck's profile

WhattheChuck

227 posts in 3069 days


#1 posted 03-09-2016 10:38 PM

Nice! Love the persistence of the dovetail keys.

-- Chuck, Pullman, WA

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

1194 posts in 1131 days


#2 posted 03-10-2016 12:26 AM

Well I like it !!

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - Your imagination is your only holdup

View Mean_Dean's profile

Mean_Dean

5184 posts in 2656 days


#3 posted 03-10-2016 12:28 AM

Great looking coffee table—I love that live-edge slab!

-- Dean -- "Don't give up the ship -- fight her 'till she sinks!" Capt James Lawrence USN

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

2798 posts in 2693 days


#4 posted 03-10-2016 01:06 AM

That table looks amazing, it must weigh a ton. Where did you find such thick maple for the legs (or is it glued up)? Impressive hand-chiseled butterflies.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2199 days


#5 posted 03-10-2016 01:09 AM

Just an excellent piece of work! Flat sawn sycamore can be very uncooperative but I think you tamed it.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Vincent Nocito's profile

Vincent Nocito

485 posts in 2873 days


#6 posted 03-10-2016 02:04 AM

Thanks for the comments. The maple base is solid stock. The sawmill had some rough 1 7/8” thick maple that I took down to 1 3/4”. The top weighs 40 pounds and the base is another 15. The table is currently being crated up for shipment to California. I have done several dozen butterfly splines in the last few months and am finally getting the hang of it.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7778 posts in 2351 days


#7 posted 03-10-2016 02:36 AM

I think Nakashima would be both happy that you did such a nice job ,but also unhappy you did such a nice job. LOL! Nice Job!

Yep it looks like you got the butterfly thing down.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View FraidKnot's profile

FraidKnot

2 posts in 473 days


#8 posted 03-10-2016 11:01 AM

Great work! I harvested splayed maple and have been toying with making a dining room table, but haven’t figured out what to draw about it the wormholes and soft spots. What did you do? And what finish did you use? This is inspiring work!

-- Chiropractors are also good with Knots...

View Vincent Nocito's profile

Vincent Nocito

485 posts in 2873 days


#9 posted 03-10-2016 01:05 PM

For large cracks and defects, I use Quick Cure 5 from System3. I tint the epoxy with Trans Tint dye to either match or enhance the color of the repair. For soft/loose knots, I use cyanoacrylate glue to first harden the area and then epoxy if needed. If the wood is punky, that is dry rot and not really suitable for use. Cut it away if you can because it will crumble away over time. Worm tracks on the live edge are brushed clean and lightly sanded. Pin holes in the surface are usually left alone if there are only a few.

View LoganN's profile

LoganN

345 posts in 1409 days


#10 posted 03-10-2016 01:42 PM



If the wood is punky, that is dry rot and not really suitable for use. Cut it away if you can because it will crumble away over time.

- Vincent Nocito

I’ve used super glue in several different applications to strengthen the wormy bits – you have to do it over several applications to get it built up. It leaves it still feeling light, but strong enough for most uses.

Thanks for the info on the epoxy – i’ve got 2 beautiful burl slabs that I want to treat, but haven’t used the quick cure 5 system before.

This piece is gorgeous and the bridle joints are fantastic! Great job and thanks for sharing all the pictures!

View Randy_ATX's profile

Randy_ATX

839 posts in 1951 days


#11 posted 03-10-2016 01:53 PM

Excellent work! I’ve got some huge sycamore slabs still drying that I plan on using for a dining room table for myself.
The quartersawn and spalted parts of your table are beautiful as is the overall appearance.

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115350 posts in 3086 days


#12 posted 03-10-2016 02:52 PM

Very nice the wood has lots of character.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

23686 posts in 2375 days


#13 posted 03-10-2016 03:01 PM

Vincent, this is a beautiful table. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View david38's profile

david38

2806 posts in 1852 days


#14 posted 03-10-2016 03:21 PM

looks great

View ravensrock's profile

ravensrock

359 posts in 1151 days


#15 posted 03-10-2016 05:29 PM

Very nice table. Base looks very solid and love the live edge top!

-- Dave, York, PA, WildSide Woodworking

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