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Table Saw Straight Edge Cutting Jig

Project by ChunkyC posted 26 days ago 1119 views 8 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I posted in my Blog about how I make a Table Saw Straight Edge Cutting Jig. Well this is it. Nothing fancy at all. It’s 11” x 72” x 1/2” Baltic Birch Ply. A 5/8” dado down the length of the board 4” on center from the edge. 1/4” holes spaced every 2” apart. I used an edge cutoff that I had from an earlier cut to make the hold down dogs. I stole (borrowed) the knobs from the box joint jig.

All I do is set the fence to 11” strong and rip the edge. Now I have a straight edge to work with.

Thanks for reading.

-- Chunk


19 comments so far

View vonhagen's profile

vonhagen

121 posts in 55 days


posted 26 days ago

great idea, i think i will borrow it and use toggle clamps

-- blaine von hagen

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

216 posts in 76 days


posted 26 days ago

Nice jig Chunk! Love the clamps!

-- Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines! Mike D.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

16684 posts in 470 days


posted 26 days ago

good jig

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

View Splinterman's profile

Splinterman

4827 posts in 254 days


posted 26 days ago

Sweet and simple.

-- I will just keep doing it till I get it right.

View loupitou06's profile

loupitou06

69 posts in 219 days


posted 26 days ago

SO far I’ve only double side taped my plywood cutting straight edge/guide to my piece of wood that I wanted to cut but I can see how can that become handy

-- 100 fois sur le metier remettez votre ouvrage

View ken90712's profile

ken90712

334 posts in 82 days


posted 26 days ago

Cool, nice way to save money and not having to pay for a jig.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

20575 posts in 715 days


posted 26 days ago

That is a nice jig, Chunk.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View Woodbutchery's profile

Woodbutchery

80 posts in 478 days


posted 25 days ago

Great jig! Can’t wait to make and use!

-- Making scrap with zen-like precision - Woodbutchery

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

730 posts in 716 days


posted 25 days ago

Should get plenty of use out of this jig if you buy rough stock lumber. Thank for the post Chuck

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

4123 posts in 566 days


posted 25 days ago

Nice looking jig.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View Cory's profile

Cory

196 posts in 312 days


posted 25 days ago

Great jig. I plan on building one of these, too. Have you had any trouble using it with cupped boards? I worry about only using two hold downs.

-- Premium firewood created daily.

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

805 posts in 179 days


posted 25 days ago

Good job

Thanks

-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

273 posts in 147 days


posted 25 days ago

Cory:

I typically flatten to board before I rip the edge. You could use it on a cupped board if it was minor. Too much cupping and warping could cause issues. As for only two clamps, two clamps is all that’s required. Works fine. You can add as many clamps as you want but you only end up adding more complexity.

The jig is made such that it will handle about a 5’-6” board, or there about.

-- Chunk

View SEE's profile

SEE

61 posts in 60 days


posted 25 days ago

I like your jig. Agreed, two clamps is all that you need.

-- Build for the joy of it!

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

273 posts in 147 days


posted 25 days ago

>> “I like your jig. Agreed, two clamps is all that you need.”

Ockham’s razor to the rescue.

I ripped the piece that I used used for the photo tonight and it was butta! Now I just need to joint the edges and she’s ready for … something? lol

-- Chunk

View BTKS's profile

BTKS

480 posts in 357 days


posted 25 days ago

This will be of great value when I can get to making one. I’m finally digging into my rough sawn lumber. This will make sizing a lot easier. Thanks for the post, BTKS

View misha1031's profile

misha1031

2 posts in 6 days


posted 6 days ago

Hi. Just wandered into this forum, and found this because I was thinking about how to get a straight edge using my table saw.
One question about this, though. Because the piece is unsupported as it goes through the blade, do you sometimes get a slightly off 90 degree edge (the piece tips slightly) and also, without support behind it, wouldn’t you get a lot of tear-out as the blade exits?

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

273 posts in 147 days


posted 6 days ago

The board is supported completely throughout the cut so I’m not sure what you mean by it not being supported. ?? You clamp the board to the ply with the toggle clamps with just enough exposed to cut off. Set the width of the cut to just a shade wider than the width of the fixture. It’s not rocket science and it works very well.

As for tear out, yes. I do get a some tear out. BUT I don’t have the expensive rip blade on at the moment so I’m not sure if that will help. Also, it’s not a lot of blow out on the end, but there is some. The trick is this, rip the edges BEFORE you cross cut the ends then who cares about tear out because your going to cut if off anyway. You have to rip the edge anyway before you crosscut or it’s not going to be square. The opposite edge gets ripped without the aid of jig, sense we just squared up edge. Then a few passes on the joiner and Bob’s your Uncle.

It also doubles as a tapering jig of sorts when in a pinch, just set the lumber on the ply at the angle you want it cut off to. I put marks on the in feed side and out feed side of the board and then just line that up with the edge of the plywood. Now obviously this doesn’t work if when you try to set up your angle the lumber sticks over past the fence. The longer the lumber, the shorter the angle will have to be.

cc

-- Chunk

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

273 posts in 147 days


posted 6 days ago

About the “tipping”. NO, if… you’ve planed one side FIRST so you have a flat surface to work from.

This is the process that I go through. Right or not, this is my process:
Step one: Plane {at least} one side flat.
Step two: Rip an edge straight with the fixture.
Step Three: Join the edge
Step Four: Rip the opposite edge (join as necessary)
Step Five: Cross cut the ends.

-- Chunk

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