| Project by ChunkyC | posted 26 days ago | 1119 views | 8 times favorited | 19 comments | ![]() |
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I posted in my Blog about how I make a Table Saw Straight Edge Cutting Jig. Well this is it. Nothing fancy at all. It’s 11” x 72” x 1/2” Baltic Birch Ply. A 5/8” dado down the length of the board 4” on center from the edge. 1/4” holes spaced every 2” apart. I used an edge cutoff that I had from an earlier cut to make the hold down dogs. I stole (borrowed) the knobs from the box joint jig.
All I do is set the fence to 11” strong and rip the edge. Now I have a straight edge to work with.
Thanks for reading.
-- Chunk































19 comments so far
vonhagen
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121 posts in 55 days
posted 26 days ago
great idea, i think i will borrow it and use toggle clamps
-- blaine von hagen
RetiredCoastie
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216 posts in 76 days
posted 26 days ago
Nice jig Chunk! Love the clamps!
-- Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines! Mike D.
a1Jim
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16684 posts in 470 days
posted 26 days ago
good jig
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon
Splinterman
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4827 posts in 254 days
posted 26 days ago
Sweet and simple.
-- I will just keep doing it till I get it right.
loupitou06
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69 posts in 219 days
posted 26 days ago
SO far I’ve only double side taped my plywood cutting straight edge/guide to my piece of wood that I wanted to cut but I can see how can that become handy
-- 100 fois sur le metier remettez votre ouvrage
ken90712
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334 posts in 82 days
posted 26 days ago
Cool, nice way to save money and not having to pay for a jig.
-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"
Scott Bryan
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20575 posts in 715 days
posted 26 days ago
That is a nice jig, Chunk.
-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.
Woodbutchery
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80 posts in 478 days
posted 25 days ago
Great jig! Can’t wait to make and use!
-- Making scrap with zen-like precision - Woodbutchery
blackcherry
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730 posts in 716 days
posted 25 days ago
Should get plenty of use out of this jig if you buy rough stock lumber. Thank for the post Chuck
Beginningwoodworker
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4123 posts in 566 days
posted 25 days ago
Nice looking jig.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
Cory
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196 posts in 312 days
posted 25 days ago
Great jig. I plan on building one of these, too. Have you had any trouble using it with cupped boards? I worry about only using two hold downs.
-- Premium firewood created daily.
Kent Shepherd
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805 posts in 179 days
posted 25 days ago
Good job
Thanks
-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!
ChunkyC
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273 posts in 147 days
posted 25 days ago
Cory:
I typically flatten to board before I rip the edge. You could use it on a cupped board if it was minor. Too much cupping and warping could cause issues. As for only two clamps, two clamps is all that’s required. Works fine. You can add as many clamps as you want but you only end up adding more complexity.
The jig is made such that it will handle about a 5’-6” board, or there about.
-- Chunk
SEE
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61 posts in 60 days
posted 25 days ago
I like your jig. Agreed, two clamps is all that you need.
-- Build for the joy of it!
ChunkyC
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273 posts in 147 days
posted 25 days ago
>> “I like your jig. Agreed, two clamps is all that you need.”
Ockham’s razor to the rescue.
I ripped the piece that I used used for the photo tonight and it was butta! Now I just need to joint the edges and she’s ready for … something? lol
-- Chunk
BTKS
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480 posts in 357 days
posted 25 days ago
This will be of great value when I can get to making one. I’m finally digging into my rough sawn lumber. This will make sizing a lot easier. Thanks for the post, BTKS
misha1031
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2 posts in 6 days
posted 6 days ago
Hi. Just wandered into this forum, and found this because I was thinking about how to get a straight edge using my table saw.
One question about this, though. Because the piece is unsupported as it goes through the blade, do you sometimes get a slightly off 90 degree edge (the piece tips slightly) and also, without support behind it, wouldn’t you get a lot of tear-out as the blade exits?
ChunkyC
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273 posts in 147 days
posted 6 days ago
The board is supported completely throughout the cut so I’m not sure what you mean by it not being supported. ?? You clamp the board to the ply with the toggle clamps with just enough exposed to cut off. Set the width of the cut to just a shade wider than the width of the fixture. It’s not rocket science and it works very well.
As for tear out, yes. I do get a some tear out. BUT I don’t have the expensive rip blade on at the moment so I’m not sure if that will help. Also, it’s not a lot of blow out on the end, but there is some. The trick is this, rip the edges BEFORE you cross cut the ends then who cares about tear out because your going to cut if off anyway. You have to rip the edge anyway before you crosscut or it’s not going to be square. The opposite edge gets ripped without the aid of jig, sense we just squared up edge. Then a few passes on the joiner and Bob’s your Uncle.
It also doubles as a tapering jig of sorts when in a pinch, just set the lumber on the ply at the angle you want it cut off to. I put marks on the in feed side and out feed side of the board and then just line that up with the edge of the plywood. Now obviously this doesn’t work if when you try to set up your angle the lumber sticks over past the fence. The longer the lumber, the shorter the angle will have to be.
cc
-- Chunk
ChunkyC
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273 posts in 147 days
posted 6 days ago
About the “tipping”. NO, if… you’ve planed one side FIRST so you have a flat surface to work from.
This is the process that I go through. Right or not, this is my process:
Step one: Plane {at least} one side flat.
Step two: Rip an edge straight with the fixture.
Step Three: Join the edge
Step Four: Rip the opposite edge (join as necessary)
Step Five: Cross cut the ends.
-- Chunk