oak bookcase

Very Nice!

Pretty ambitious for a 2nd piece – that’s great! Again – can you tell us a bit about how you put it together…nutshell or extended versions are fine…

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

very cool re: the historic piece.

Gorgeous unit!!!

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (http://www.execulink.com/~yohan)

“Pretty ambitious for a 2nd piece” I agree, a bit dark but very nice.

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

Great bookcase! I have been looking at these plans myself, you have given me the inspiration I need to start building it. Again, awesome job!

-- Dale, Pittsburgh PA - www.flytyingstation.net

Wonderful work Scott, I made the same piece, so I can appreciate the work that went into this piece! – wonderful craftsmanship! – your second project? – you need to change jobs man!~

-- The Gnarly Wood Shoppe

I was asked about construction. I used mortise and tenon joinery. Back then, I cut mortises on my drill press with a mortise attachment and a dado set on my tablesaw for the tenons. It worked fine, but now I cut my mortises on the router table. It is so much cleaner and faster for me. I cut mortises first, then I sneak up on the measurement of the tenons to fit.

I cut the 4 pillars first. Then the side horizontal cross members. I used mortise and tenon joints and glue to make the sides. I used oak plywood for the side panels too. I used pins to help reinforce the joints

I cut the stretchers for the front and back of the unit. I used a big, flexible ruler to make my arc. I used a jig saw to cut the arc. The stretchers were mortise and tenoned into the 4 pillars.

I biscuit joined boards to make the shelves and the top. Z type clips hold the top on.

The doors were tough to make. They were so tall that despite my best efforts, they each had a slight bow in them, which made them hard to fit to the case. ANY ADVICE someone has for me to make tall door building easier next time, would be appreciated!! I put tempered glass in the doors so kids or dogs don’t accidentally break the glass. Each door is a single sheet of glass. I put catches at the top and bottom of each door.

I used to build whole projects then try to sand and stain. I learned quickly. Now every piece is sanded nearly to finish grade and stained where possible prior to assembly so I get a much more even color throughout the piece.

I have a lot to learn.

Scott

me too! (a lot to learn)...and no help here on the tall door – seems like it would be pretty dependent on the wood used (not type – just actual specific pieces used for the project after they’ve been milled and acclimated to the shop).

Thanks a lot for sharing the low-down on construction! Appreciated!

One more Q- What method did you use to fair the curves after cutting them with the jig saw?

ooh – and one more…do you have an estimate on how many hours you put into building this?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Regarding the bottom arc, I used my belt sander mounted upside down in my vise. I ran the piece over the round end of the sander, up and down, the piece of wood. Then, I used a few strokes with a power palm sander, then I sanded by hand.

This piece was built ver part-time, but I would estimate about 80 hours.