Easy to Make Flip Stop

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Project by Wolfdrool posted 02-24-2016 03:56 PM 2283 views 40 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I made 4 of these flip stops for a new miter saw workstation that is nearing completion. This flip stop is very fast and easy to make and works great.

Ingredients: two pieces of scrap wood, a simple cabinet hinge, two ¼-20 knobs, a 2-inch long ½ inch bolt for a handle, and two 1 ½ inch ¼-20 T-bolts. Because these inexpensive cabinet hinges come in two-packs, I bought two pairs and made 4 stops in about 30 minutes.

The cabinet hinges have a spring that gives the hinges a little play if you torque them. At first try, the hinges seem unsuitable to make a flip stop due to this play. However, if you assemble the stop so that there is no gap between the base block and the stop block, surprisingly the assembly is very firm for stop action when the stop block is flipped down. The spring stretch in the spring actually is helpful as it allows the stop block to move away from the fence and swing up for easy flipping action without having to chamfer any edges of the stop block. I clamped the base block and stop block firmly together when installing the hinge to make sure that there was no gap between the parts.

Note the stop block is installed on the bottom of the hinge plate, which is not the normal position in a cabinet. Normally, a cabinet door is installed on top of the hinge plate.

I used Kreg screws to install the hinge, because these can be removed many times without degrading the screws or their grip.

I used a ½ inch bolt as a handle to operate the stop block. This securely threads into a 29/64 inch hole drilled near the lower end of the stop block. I used select fir, which is soft. A harder wood might need a 15/32 hole. The bolt cuts its own threads as the bolt is installed with a wrench or drill. If you use a drill to do this, make sure the stop block is clamped securely to your workbench as you drive in the bolt. There is a lot of torque needed for this and trying to hold the wood in just one hand while you operate the drill with the other can easily overpower your grip (ouch from the college of hard knocks). The threaded hole grips the bolt securely without glue.

The stop block is a 5 inch long piece of 1×4 fir. The base bock is a 4 inch long piece of 1×3 fir. Both were scraps. The stop block needs to be longer side to side than the base block so the base block does not interfere with stop action on tall workpieces (another college of hard knocks lesson). The stop block can be made much longer to give a stop block extra reach to the left or right. Of my four stop blocks, one reaches a foot to the left while another reaches a foot to the right for extended stop function on either side of my miter saw.

12 comments so far

View Tom Pritchard's profile

Tom Pritchard

145 posts in 2116 days

#1 posted 02-24-2016 06:05 PM

Great idea..I may use that idea someday..

-- Tom in Madison, Indiana

View ScottM's profile


334 posts in 1571 days

#2 posted 02-24-2016 07:10 PM

Very nice. I just bought 2 Kreg Flip Stops from Amazon because they were on sale a few weeks ago. Once I received them I realized they may not work as I intended due to the fact that the fence height is restricted. In other words, you can’t just make your fence any height you want or need because the stop may not reach.

So I like this method and I will probably be making a few of these in various heights… Great idea. Simple and effective!

View Violaine's profile


63 posts in 2246 days

#3 posted 02-24-2016 11:08 PM

i suddenly realized that i have this springy hinges lying elsewhere in the shop! if i had known about this, i wouldnt budge to get the pricey kreg flipstops!
thanks for sharing! it must be effective!

View Violaine's profile


63 posts in 2246 days

#4 posted 02-24-2016 11:10 PM

i am thinking if its better if the base block sits flush to the edge of the alum track. this is especially helfpul for tall stocks ei.. think think think…

View Violaine's profile


63 posts in 2246 days

#5 posted 02-24-2016 11:11 PM

or should i just make the fence tall enough instead of modifying your ingenious idea???

View Wolfdrool's profile


50 posts in 2821 days

#6 posted 02-24-2016 11:33 PM

Violaine: You pointed out one of the design issues I wrestled with. The base block projects out about 3/4 from the t-Track at the top. This could be avoided by putting the hinge on the back with a reach-over block that fits between the knobs so the base block is flush with the T-track. But, I went with this design for a few reasons. It’s simpler. I have never cut anything thicker than 3.5 inches on this saw ever, and the base block is above that. Also, if I’m using the stop, the base block is not in the way, but is off the far end of the piece being cut. The final clincher was that with the base block projecting out 3/4 inch, the holes for the T-bolts on the top are well away from the edge of the wood block. If the block is flush with the T-track, these holes are so close to the edge.

In sum, the projecting base block is a minor issue for the work I do and likely always out of play for me.

A taller fence would alleviate that, but it also has drawbacks. As one, it will make it harder to clamp custom stops (e.g., mitered stops) to the fence that are on the table, etc. If the projection of the base block is an issue, I would use a base block that is flush in the front and mount the hinge behind the fence and attach an L-shaped flipping block to the rear-mounted hinge. The connecting piece either needs to fit between the knobs or pass outside them. Could work if the hinge can still pivot with this approach with the base and flipping blocks closely fit to avoid hinge play.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


2302 posts in 1833 days

#7 posted 02-25-2016 02:40 AM

Thanks for posting, great idea!

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View jeff's profile


977 posts in 2889 days

#8 posted 02-25-2016 04:07 AM

Really nice idea.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View dave105's profile


29 posts in 1764 days

#9 posted 02-25-2016 01:44 PM

Great idea. That beats clamping a block of wood to the fence. Good job.

View dmo0430's profile


19 posts in 427 days

#10 posted 02-25-2016 01:51 PM

Great I’m finishing up my cross cut sled now and will need this soon! Thanks for posting

View Underdog's profile


879 posts in 1460 days

#11 posted 02-25-2016 02:29 PM

This is a great idea! I have a few of these hinges lying around. Time to make use of them!

-- "woodworker with an asterisk"

View daruskii's profile


6 posts in 283 days

#12 posted 02-28-2016 08:21 PM

Nice idea!

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