|Project by Wolfdrool||posted 02-24-2016 03:56 PM||2573 views||40 times favorited||12 comments|
I made 4 of these flip stops for a new miter saw workstation that is nearing completion. This flip stop is very fast and easy to make and works great.
Ingredients: two pieces of scrap wood, a simple cabinet hinge, two ¼-20 knobs, a 2-inch long ½ inch bolt for a handle, and two 1 ½ inch ¼-20 T-bolts. Because these inexpensive cabinet hinges come in two-packs, I bought two pairs and made 4 stops in about 30 minutes.
The cabinet hinges have a spring that gives the hinges a little play if you torque them. At first try, the hinges seem unsuitable to make a flip stop due to this play. However, if you assemble the stop so that there is no gap between the base block and the stop block, surprisingly the assembly is very firm for stop action when the stop block is flipped down. The spring stretch in the spring actually is helpful as it allows the stop block to move away from the fence and swing up for easy flipping action without having to chamfer any edges of the stop block. I clamped the base block and stop block firmly together when installing the hinge to make sure that there was no gap between the parts.
Note the stop block is installed on the bottom of the hinge plate, which is not the normal position in a cabinet. Normally, a cabinet door is installed on top of the hinge plate.
I used Kreg screws to install the hinge, because these can be removed many times without degrading the screws or their grip.
I used a ½ inch bolt as a handle to operate the stop block. This securely threads into a 29/64 inch hole drilled near the lower end of the stop block. I used select fir, which is soft. A harder wood might need a 15/32 hole. The bolt cuts its own threads as the bolt is installed with a wrench or drill. If you use a drill to do this, make sure the stop block is clamped securely to your workbench as you drive in the bolt. There is a lot of torque needed for this and trying to hold the wood in just one hand while you operate the drill with the other can easily overpower your grip (ouch from the college of hard knocks). The threaded hole grips the bolt securely without glue.
The stop block is a 5 inch long piece of 1×4 fir. The base bock is a 4 inch long piece of 1×3 fir. Both were scraps. The stop block needs to be longer side to side than the base block so the base block does not interfere with stop action on tall workpieces (another college of hard knocks lesson). The stop block can be made much longer to give a stop block extra reach to the left or right. Of my four stop blocks, one reaches a foot to the left while another reaches a foot to the right for extended stop function on either side of my miter saw.