Ok, another Kerf Maker

I still can’t get my head around it’s use, or how it works. Guess I’ll have to build one , then try it.
Jack

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

Follow the link this link ====> Bridge City Tools and scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a video of it being used… it was the only way I figured it out, and it is a VERY cool tool…. Like I said when they are available I am buying one, until then, my home made one have to do.

-- I can fix ANYTHING!.... Wheres the duct tape?

Nicely made and I like the material you used.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

Great design.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

What a cool tool! Thx for the posting I have to have one on the peg board! The video is so helpful that is sold me on it instantly!

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

Very nice! Please let me know when Bridge City is no longer back ordered, so I can let you know my shipping address to send me the one you made.

This is another nice kerf maker and building it from UHMW was a good idea.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Looks good

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

These things are so cool and simple and complicated all at once.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.

I have a one that is made from oak wood that is close to that tool. The key to how it works is two parts.
The first part is to have your cutting tool set up to cut the way you want. It can be a table saw, router in a table or radial arm saw. The get a piece of scrape wood and make a cut on one end about a inch from the end. If the board is 2 inches wide cut about 1 inch in and the come from the end to that cut to have it drop off. What you want is a piece of wood that has not been altered on one side and right next to it has been cut to get the kerf or thickness of the router bit or saw blade to calibrate the tool, take that piece that came off and and stick it against the wood that was removed and you will see a step down from one end to the other. That is the end you use to set the calibration on the one end. That is the end L piece on the end with the other end flush up to the other side you set the calibration of the offset. second part is: Then you use the other end to set the thickness of the board or piece of material you want to go in to the dado or rabbit joint.
You set a stop block against your fence so that with the tool in place and the board you want to cut is at the mark you want to cut inside make a pass and them turn your tool over and reset the board against it and make another pass.
If there is material that needs to be removed between the to cuts then make you passes within those cuts and to remove all the material that was left behind.
Then remove and insert the item you wanted to fit in the groove or rabbit and if you did it correctly, the fit will be a tight joint. The key if your especially doing a rabbit joints is to allow for the align the board to start on the other side of the cutter. Otherwise you end up short.
Great for doing dado’s or rabbits.

-- Eric, Illinois, www.wooddesignsbyeric.com