| Project by drfixit | posted 1308 days ago | 5123 views | 7 times favorited | 13 comments | ![]() |
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After seeng treeman’s and the orginal from Bridge City Tools, I had to have one, but Bridge City’s is on back order. So i figured I would try and make one of my own. I used uhmw plastic to make it. It took around 2 and half hours this evening to make it and adjust it. Seems to work great, but as soon as the Bridge City one is available I am buying one of theirs. The last pic is 2 different widths of some scrap oak that I tested it out on, made a very tight joint.
-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!
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13 comments so far
jackass
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346 posts in 1883 days
#1 posted 1308 days ago
I still can’t get my head around it’s use, or how it works. Guess I’ll have to build one , then try it.
Jack
-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada
drfixit
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317 posts in 1314 days
#2 posted 1308 days ago
Follow the link this link ====> Bridge City Tools and scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a video of it being used… it was the only way I figured it out, and it is a VERY cool tool…. Like I said when they are available I am buying one, until then, my home made one have to do.
-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!
woodworm
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14104 posts in 1761 days
#3 posted 1308 days ago
Nicely made and I like the material you used.
-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.
Karson
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34370 posts in 2571 days
#4 posted 1308 days ago
Great design.
-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †
Ken90712
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12665 posts in 1359 days
#5 posted 1308 days ago
What a cool tool! Thx for the posting I have to have one on the peg board! The video is so helpful that is sold me on it instantly!
-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"
Sandy
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119 posts in 2095 days
#6 posted 1308 days ago
Very nice! Please let me know when Bridge City is no longer back ordered, so I can let you know my shipping address to send me the one you made.
Scott Bryan
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27262 posts in 1992 days
#7 posted 1308 days ago
This is another nice kerf maker and building it from UHMW was a good idea.
-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine
a1Jim
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87254 posts in 1747 days
#8 posted 1308 days ago
Looks good
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
spaids
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699 posts in 1864 days
#9 posted 1307 days ago
These things are so cool and simple and complicated all at once.
-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--
thecraftsman
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9 posts in 1322 days
#10 posted 1303 days ago
I have a one that is made from oak wood that is close to that tool. The key to how it works is two parts.
The first part is to have your cutting tool set up to cut the way you want. It can be a table saw, router in a table or radial arm saw. The get a piece of scrape wood and make a cut on one end about a inch from the end. If the board is 2 inches wide cut about 1 inch in and the come from the end to that cut to have it drop off. What you want is a piece of wood that has not been altered on one side and right next to it has been cut to get the kerf or thickness of the router bit or saw blade to calibrate the tool, take that piece that came off and and stick it against the wood that was removed and you will see a step down from one end to the other. That is the end you use to set the calibration on the one end. That is the end L piece on the end with the other end flush up to the other side you set the calibration of the offset. second part is: Then you use the other end to set the thickness of the board or piece of material you want to go in to the dado or rabbit joint.
You set a stop block against your fence so that with the tool in place and the board you want to cut is at the mark you want to cut inside make a pass and them turn your tool over and reset the board against it and make another pass.
If there is material that needs to be removed between the to cuts then make you passes within those cuts and to remove all the material that was left behind.
Then remove and insert the item you wanted to fit in the groove or rabbit and if you did it correctly, the fit will be a tight joint. The key if your especially doing a rabbit joints is to allow for the align the board to start on the other side of the cutter. Otherwise you end up short.
Great for doing dado’s or rabbits.
-- Eric, Illinois, www.wooddesignsbyeric.com
Jim Jakosh
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7310 posts in 1276 days
#11 posted 653 days ago
Nice tool and it looks like it works good like it is supposed to. You have the same basic design as the Bridge City kerfmaker. I have watched their video many times and could not see how they set it for the thickness of the blade. I made one that just clamps over the blade to set the width of that offset so it was simple to me. How do you set it for blade thickness?
-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!!
Joe Lyddon
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6392 posts in 2223 days
#12 posted 653 days ago
To really measure the blade (cutting thickness), wouldn’t you have to measure the width of a Blade Tip?
... and if tips are slightly screwed, every other one, etc. wouldn’t you have measure the width of TWO adjacent tips… Tip to Tip?
Clamping to blade Sounds like a simple way of doing it… Good idea…
Another way would be to just make a Cut… and measure it… or make a thin piece that fit’s it snug & use IT for the kerf width.
-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"
fernandoindia
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1002 posts in 1114 days
#13 posted 651 days ago
Nice looking kerfmaker Dr.
@Jackass, Mads made a blog on how to use it, after we supplicated him to.
-- Back home. Fernando
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