Accidental 4 corner grain match

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Project by Andy posted 02-21-2016 03:16 PM 2548 views 7 times favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This keepsake box has canary wood sides and bloodwood mier keys and a blood wood lid. There are stainless steel pins for the hinge on the lid as all of my boxes are. This box has an accidental 4 corner grain match I did not resaw the board and plan for a 4 corner match the grains just lined back up on the last corner. Lucky.

I wanted to know if you woodworkers are familiar with how to cut your boards to get all 4 corners to match on your boxes? Im sure alot of you know but it took me a while to figure it out because the information out there on how to do it was confusing. If any of you are not sure what this is or cant figure it out let me know in the comments and i will explain or start a forum on this subject.

-- Andy Smith

14 comments so far

View BB1's profile


421 posts in 269 days

#1 posted 02-21-2016 05:58 PM

Beauiful box. Yes – please explain.

View Andy's profile


208 posts in 248 days

#2 posted 02-21-2016 08:14 PM

First you take a 4/4 board and resaw it on the bandsaw into two 1/2” boards. It could be a thicker board if you want just resaw down the middle to get equal thicknesses. Take your two (now bookmatched) boards and plane them smooth. The side you plane smooth will be the outside of your box. Its important that they are on the outside to get the best grain match. You will cut side 1 & 2 out of one board and side 3 & 4 from your other board those pieces will naturally match very good but since you bookmatched the board now pieces 2&3 will match and 1 & 4 will match as well making a 4 corner match. I understand this may be a little confusing if theres anything thats not making sense let me know.

-- Andy Smith

View RobEk's profile


34 posts in 842 days

#3 posted 02-21-2016 08:16 PM

4 matching corners is not so hard. Lets say you are making a box that is 5” W x 10” L x 3” H and you want it to be 3/4” thick.

1. You need to start with a board that is 3” H and slightly longer than 15” L and slightly thicker than 1 1/2”... Think of the two ends as end A and end B.

2. You need to rip the board into two strips (book match it). So now you have two boards, both have the same A and B ends.

3. The two outside sides of your original single board are the inside of your box, and the book match sides are now your outside 4 corner matching sides.

4. You just need to make sure before you book match that the board is the right length, to include the amount you will lose for cross cuts…

Make sense?

View Andy's profile


208 posts in 248 days

#4 posted 02-21-2016 08:27 PM

I concur. And its not hard once you understand it but it can be confusing for someone who didnt know it could be done. I just couldnt get any detailed info on how to do it when i was trying to figure it out i wound up just resawing a board and marking lines for my sides until i understood and figured it out.

-- Andy Smith

View Jake Brain's profile

Jake Brain

54 posts in 2190 days

#5 posted 02-21-2016 10:53 PM

newTim has a good 5 part blog on box making and has some very good photos of each step. His blog is I have also used his method when I make my boxes.

-- Jake Brain, Florida

View Tooch's profile


1301 posts in 1297 days

#6 posted 02-22-2016 01:23 AM

Nice box, Andy. Love the spline on top of the miter joint

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View BB1's profile


421 posts in 269 days

#7 posted 02-22-2016 04:23 AM

Thanks for explaining. I now understand the concept but am thinking how I could accomplish that first rip cut to create the book match as I don’t have a bandsaw. Guessing it would be possible but more challenging with a table saw?

View Andy's profile


208 posts in 248 days

#8 posted 02-22-2016 04:29 AM

I have done it on a table saw and it works pretty good but you want as thin of a kerf cut you can get because the grains can get mismatched slightly. I have yet to get a box yet where theres not a little mismatch somewhere anyway. Give it a try itll work fine, good luck.

-- Andy Smith

View majuvla's profile


8700 posts in 2288 days

#9 posted 02-22-2016 05:41 AM

Beautiful colours for this box. Interesting solution with back spline on top of the joint.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

View BB1's profile


421 posts in 269 days

#10 posted 02-22-2016 11:46 AM

Thanks Andy – this will be going on my list of projects! Thanks again for taking the time to explain the process.

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3945 posts in 2585 days

#11 posted 02-22-2016 03:44 PM

I like your box, and your hinging method. Thanks for the post.
Sometimes the explanations on LJ’s are the best, and sometimes FWW magazine does a good job. Here is an article I used for making a box. It describes the way to match the grain around a box quite well:

“Secrets to flawless mitered boxes” from the April 2015 FWW magazine.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View helluvawreck's profile


22677 posts in 2287 days

#12 posted 02-22-2016 03:47 PM

It’s a beautiful box. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View UncleStumpy's profile


707 posts in 1733 days

#13 posted 02-23-2016 10:34 PM

I have to admit that I have never seen a spline on the top of a miter before, but I really like the effect.
I am going to steal your idea, if it’s ok!

-- "They don't want it perfect - they want it SPECIAL"

View Andy's profile


208 posts in 248 days

#14 posted 02-24-2016 03:52 AM

Go ahead and do it thats why i post my projects, to give all of you ideas to make something yourself. But be careful cutting them splines like that if the wood is thin the table saw can throw your whole top corner in the shop floor! It happens.

-- Andy Smith

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