Shop Built Drill Press Table

Mighty fine lookin table. Got to consider something like that especially a dust collector port and fence. BZ

-- Dudley Young USN Ret.

This is a great addition to a drill press, one day I hope to build one of these. I would get started today but my list of projects is so long I can’t see the end of it.

Very nice I favorited it.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

That is a mighty fine table! Hope you don’t mind if I swipe some of the ideas you used for my replacement DP table? (I am starting to HATE my Grizz DP table…).

Could you give a little more detail on how the mount to the iron table works? Do the bolts go through it or bypass it?

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

very nice design. well thought out. i like it and hope you don’t mind me using the idea.

-- PAPLOU

Nice table. Well thought out.

-- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

Thanks for the comments folks. It was a fun project to build and it’s really an asset in the shop now. I’m thankful to have it!

dbhost: You don’t have to borrow the ideas. They are freely given!

On my table the bolts go all the way through the CI table of the DP. I have some more pics that show that feature in detail. I’ll try to get them posted online today so that I can post those pics for you here. You can build it so that the bolts are just pressing up against the bottom of the CI table. I’ll get the clearer details for you.

-- Build for the joy of it!

A great job you will get years of service from this great addition

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I second the requests for more details. I have this same model DP, and I’ve been stumped on how to attach a table.

-- Measure twice, then try to figure out which one was right.

Very nice work. I really like the mini fence idea. Thanks for the post.

-- Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines! Mike D.

Geat Job, very functional.

-- Aflixa - Granja - Portugal

Yeah, I will have to adapt to my DP, as my table is one of the round ones… I was already thinking something similar to what you rigged up there…

Nice drawer setup too. I assume you are keeping bits in there…

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

Now—if you can just figure out how to enstall dust collection in the box you’re good to go. I made my DP table tears ago, put a small bits,spade bits, stop block, etc.,drawer in it using half the box for that. I put a divider behind the dawer, and drilled a 2 1/4” hole for the dust collection. I ran a Shop Vac hose from there to my 4” d.c. main line with a drop, and used a 2 1/2—to 4” coupler. It works great. Just an idea to give you a heads-up for corraling that dust. If you have the room , that is. Drill the hole on the side of the box.

Great- looking table, by the way. It should do you well for many years.

-- Remember--- one good turn-- gets most of the blanket!!!!

a great job, I was just thinking about building one for my grizzly DP. Great timing. I like that the drawer is painted Grizzly green. I favorited it too.

Almost forgot, SEE. If you want to look at my d.p.set-up and see how mine is, go to my workshop photos on my home page, or better yet, go to my workshop phots’#2. I think you can see it better there.

-- Remember--- one good turn-- gets most of the blanket!!!!

Very nice table… another one of those projects to do on my list.

-- I can fix ANYTHING!.... Wheres the duct tape?

I can see you have started a lot of people thinking; including me. One of the things I enjoy about LJ is the creative projects people like you come up with.
Is it possible that you have a drawing of the drill top we could use?

-- Les B, Oregon

I thank the Good LORD every day for creative people. Wonderful idea. It is now in my favorites. Great work.

-- Bill - If I knew GRANDKIDS were so much fun I would have had them first.

That’s a good looking table. Well done.

~DB

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

Nice and practical design.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

Very creative projest with functional mini fence details.

-- www.woodworkerlazar.com

Nice looking table.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

Nice job. I like the idea of the drawer in the table, very convenient, first time I saw that. And I like that adjustable hold down bar, that will be real handy. Not fumbling around with clamps anymore to clamp the wrok to the table.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

Thanks for the feedback, folks. First of all, YES, dust collection is the next thing on my list for the new DP Table. I’ve pretty much decided to go with a flexible hose that I can position right behind the bit. However, I still haven’t decided if I’m going to have that as a free standing unit on a boom or if it’ll be attached to the column.

For those of you who asked for more specifics and details on the construction, here goes. Sorry, I didn’t draw a full plan. I just sketched working drawings for particular parts of the project. So, I hope the photos will help.

The first photo shows “the box” with the drawer closed and without the top mounted. They’re difficult to see in this photo but there are two holes in the top itself. T-Nuts are on the bottom side of these holes. A bolt goes through the center of the insert and into the T-Nuts to prevent the insert from lifting. The reason for two holes is because the top can be repositioned on the box when more swing is needed.

The next photo shows the table with the drawer opened. You’ll notice that I built it with shop made full extension drawer guides; two pieces of wood that ride in a dado in the box sides.

Next is the drawer, very simple construction from scraps, actually from the dump!

The next photo shows the front of the box with the drawer. You can see the dados that the drawer guides ride in. On the bottom of the box is a shallow dado for the heads of the T-Bolts that go through the bottom of the box, the cast iron table and finally through the bottom “lip” of the box. It’s then held firmly in place with two knobs on the bottom.

Next, a back view of the box showing the cutouts that the drawer guides pass through when the drawer is closed. Keep in mind that in this photo the box is sitting on a piece of plywood that isn’t part of the drill press table. When installed on the DP, the cast iron table is sandwiched in between the bottom of the box and the two “lips” on the left and right side.

Now, the 1” plywood top itself is shown next. I cut the hole for the replaceable insert with a fly cutter on the DP. Then, I routed a rabbet about 1/2” deep. The insert sits on the ledge of that rabbet. Please note that the hole is off center from the top itself so that the drilling area is around the outer edge of the insert. It’s built so that a 2 1/2” forstner bit will still be within the insert. Anything larger than that, such as a flywheel cut and I use another piece of wood on top of the table as a backer.

In the next photo you can see the bolt that holds the insert in place. It’s just snug enough to hold the insert down, yet loose enough to spin the insert with fingers in the two finger holes when I need a clean backer area.

This photo shows the add on fence installed. It is installed with T-Bolts that travel in the T-Slot cut into the top of the low profile fence. I’ve learned that one can save a LOT of money with the Rockler T-Slot router bit, instead of buying T-Track for everything!

Finally, we have a clear photo showing the add on fence with a stop block and the mini fence in front of the piece of stock being drilled with a hold down in the mini fence.

I hope this answers the construction questions that some of you had. if anyone has more questions, feel free to ask. Thanks again.

-- Build for the joy of it!

Very very nice, one of the best design yet. I’ve built one a few month back and can say enough about how user friendly it make the drill press operation and most of all safety. Enjoy using and thanks for such a nice write up on your new shop addition…Blkcherry

Great job! I just picked up a Jet 17” Dp and have been looking for some kind of table. This is very nice and functional.

-- Bud, NY, http://tpww.libsyn.com/

Hey See. I’m a little late in seeing this, but just wanted to say what a great job you did on on the DP table, and the blog was also well done and informative. One thing I couldn’t understand though is why a round table insert is better than a square. I’m sure you know what you are talking about, but I just can’t see why. I’ll probably feel stupid when you tell me, but it’s worth it to know the answer!

-- Mike, American in Norway

Hey Stefang,

I NEVER consider anyone to be stupid who asks a question in regards to something that they don’t understand. That’s one way for us to learn! I can assure you that I ask questions if I don’t understand something.

You get more usable space with the round insert than with a square with one, without having to reposition the shop built table on the cast iron table. Think of it this way: With a square insert, offset from the center, you have 4 spots for a solid backer. When you wear out one area, you remove the insert, turn it 90 degrees and put it back in the table. You can do that 3 times. When that insert is worn out you have 4 places on the insert that’s been drilled, with lots of space left that is still solid backer. You just can’t use it.

With a round insert, on the other hand, you wear out an area and then rotate the round insert just enough to bring you to a new clean solid area. Depending on the diameter of the round insert, you can get it up to 500-600% more use from one insert.

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, feel free to ask.

-- Build for the joy of it!

Thanks for the answer See. It’s always good to learn something new, and that is one of the reasons I chose woodworking as my hobby, because of it was one of the things I knew the least about and had the least aptitude for. I’m getting the theory down fairly well, but putting it into practice is another matter. With help from people like yourself I might eventually become a woodworker (don’t hold your breath).

-- Mike, American in Norway