| Project by Timbo | posted 41 days ago | 1051 views | 42 times favorited | 9 comments |  |
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Here are some Instructions for the Shop made dovetail jig I posted here:
First layout and mark all of your pins, color in the waste areas to reduce any confusion when sawing.
With the jig on the saw (orientation doesn’t matter) lay your pin board down and raise the blade to just barely higher than the thickness the wood, so the pins will protrude when assembled with the tail board so after gluing you can plane them smooth for that perfect fit.
Picture 1: Use the blade kerf to position the board against the fence, start on the right edge and make your first cut just get close it’s not critical to be right on. If you end up with one tail slightly wider then the other it will just look more hand cut.
Picture 2: Move the board to right and do the middle pin(s).
Picture 3: Now flip the dovetail jig 180 degrees so you are using the other fence and repeat the cuts, this defines the pins, the shaded areas still need to be removed.
Picture 4: Shows the pins completed.
Picture 5: Position the pin board on the tail board and mark the tails
Picture 6: Cut the tails, the red lines show the cuts than can be made on the band saw. The blue shows the part that you need to cut out with a chisel. Cut very close to the line but leave it, go slow here, take your time on these cuts. You will need to clean these up by paring to the line.
Hope this helps.
-- Tim: Remember, if it doesn't say Binford, someone else made it.
9 comments so far
Woodbutchery
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posted 41 days ago
Tim, great instructions. I’m actually encouraged to build this jig and try it out.
Thanks for the project, and the documentation!
-- Making scrap with zen-like precision - Woodbutchery
a1Jim
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posted 41 days ago
Thanks Tim a big help.
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com
dustyal
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posted 41 days ago
thanks for taking the time to post this… much appreciated.
Do you know the angle (or ratio) the fence boards are set on your jig? You mentioned you used a gauge. I understand it can vary depending on what you want the dovetails to look like… I just curious as to what you used here.
Thinking about this… I wondering if I can do a similar jig for use on my router table. My TS isn’t that great and I don’t have flat bottom blades for it… A TS and blades is high on my list…
-- Al H. - small shop, small projects...
Timbo
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posted 41 days ago
Glad it helps, I used the hardwood marking gauge from Veritas, it’s 1:8 ratio for hardwood.
I’m sure this will work on a router table also
-- Tim: Remember, if it doesn't say Binford, someone else made it.
TopamaxSurvivor
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posted 41 days ago
Thanks, I’ve been thinking of tying something to speed up hand cuts, this looks like the real deal!!
-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.
russv
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posted 41 days ago
I just made my own layout marking gauge. It is based on Rob Cosman’s design. It is a 1:7 ratio and now that I have used it a couple of times, I’ll make others with different angles. It took me about 1/2 hour to make. I used 1/4” hardboard that was smooth on both sides. see my projects for pics
russv
-- yknotwood.com: where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!
mtkate
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posted 41 days ago
Neat-o!
Napaman
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posted 41 days ago
this one is going in me favorites…thanks…
-- Matt, Napa, CA...fun is beautiful...just trying to have some fun...
Timbo
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293 posts in 465 days
posted 39 days ago
Glad to pass this on, hope it works as well for everyone as it has for me.
-- Tim: Remember, if it doesn't say Binford, someone else made it.