Miter Sled

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Project by pfleming posted 02-10-2016 02:47 AM 1530 views 2 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Miter Sled
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Here’s the miter sled I made a good while ago. The base is from, you guessed it, a kitchen sink cutout, and the miter bars are cut from a 2×4”. It’s held up really well through time, and I think the only thing I’d really like to change are the miter bars. I’d love to get something more stable than wood to use. It sure does make cutting miters for picture frames A LOT quicker and easier…..not to mention more accurate.

-- Patrick, Mississippi

9 comments so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


2302 posts in 1830 days

#1 posted 02-10-2016 04:37 AM

Nice work, have a piece of that stuff in the shop guess I know what I can make with it now.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Hitia17340's profile


11 posts in 1001 days

#2 posted 02-10-2016 09:46 AM

Crikey! How thick are your kitchen worktops in the US? Ours in the UK are 1.5” thick. Apart from weighing a ton there’d be hardly enough blade penetration to cut the material if I made a similar jig over here!
But I do like the idea of a nice smooth surface to work on; and, like you, I like to make use of ‘waste’ material wherever possible.

-- Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too? Douglas Adams' take on religion.

View pfleming's profile


76 posts in 635 days

#3 posted 02-10-2016 11:43 AM

Yep woodbutcherbynight, now you know what you can do with it. All of my jigs, with the exception of my box joint jig, uses this material as the base. I even made a drawer to go under a mobile work bench out of the stuff, and it seems to be holding up well too. Hitia17340, our formica kitchen counter tops are 3/4” thick, so when I used 2 pieces of it for my router table top, it’s actually 1 1/2” thick. Of course, then I routed a spot under the table (where the router mounts) down to about 1/4” or so, that way my bits will clear the table top without having them half out of the collet (or having to buy an insert). It seems to be very stable, it cuts easy, and (best of all) it’s completely free! I also made a very simple biscuit joiner jig out of it. You have to check the pieces closely to make sure they’re flat (depending on what you want them for), but I usually get 3 or 4 at a time, just for this reason. It is heavy, but sometimes, heavier is better. My table saw crosscut sled is made from it, and is very heavy, but also has some nice control because of the weight.

-- Patrick, Mississippi

View Sawdustonmyshoulder's profile


396 posts in 3049 days

#4 posted 02-10-2016 07:10 PM

good looking jig.

Greetings from up the road in Tupelo.

-- Makin' Sawdust!!!

View pfleming's profile


76 posts in 635 days

#5 posted 02-10-2016 08:35 PM

Thank you sir. There seem to be a few jocks up around the Tupelo area. Makes me proud that North Missisissippi is so well represented

-- Patrick, Mississippi

View GnatMan's profile


4 posts in 274 days

#6 posted 02-10-2016 10:25 PM

Looks P.F.G. to me. Big help isn’t it?

View hoss12992's profile


3811 posts in 1314 days

#7 posted 02-10-2016 11:57 PM

That is really cool. Great job

-- The Old Rednek Workshop

View rockmolsen's profile


155 posts in 994 days

#8 posted 02-11-2016 01:53 AM

Hey order yourself a set of these – Zeroplay miter slot guides

-- Rick --------The measure of who we are is what we do with what we have.

View pfleming's profile


76 posts in 635 days

#9 posted 02-11-2016 02:35 AM

GnatMan, yes, it is a huge help. The miter gauge with my table saw isn’t the best, but not the worst either. I have the Porter Cable PCB222TS table saw. I put an extention on the miter gauge, but still don’t trust it nearly as much as I do my miter sled. Rockmolsen, those do look like the ultimate in zero-slop miter bars, but I didn’t see where it ever said how long the bars are. The price isn’t too bad either. Thanks for the link!

-- Patrick, Mississippi

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