|Project by garbonsai||posted 02-08-2016 04:57 PM||1025 views||3 times favorited||6 comments|
Nearly all of the wood I work with is rough sawn or reclaimed, haphazardly acquired on the cheap or for free. While this keeps costs down, it means storing whatever I get my hands on until it’s needed. For better or for worse, my entire house (save the laundry room) consists of finished space. My shop — a converted bedroom — is in the basement, where all the walls are drywall and furring strips over concrete block, and none of them offer 10’ of convenient, uninterrupted space. There are no out-buildings aside from a shed.
In short, in order to stop stacking lumber in the middle of the floor, I needed to put up a lumber rack that was mostly freestanding. I started fiddling around with different designs until I came across a bunch of 1” and 1-1/2” rigid metal conduit on steep (!) clearance at Lowe’s. This greatly influenced my final design, and I purchased the necessary construction-grade lumber, gave it time to dry, then got to work.
Each of the columns consists of three 2×6’s that I jointed and planed, then laminated together and trimmed to a final size of roughly 3-1/2” thick x 5” wide. The feet and horizontal supports are 2×4’s, again jointed and planed to a consistent size. Drilling the slightly-angled holes for the pipe was a little tricky — the columns are unwieldy, and I had to purchase a couple of oddly-sized Forstner bits (OD for 1” RMC is 1-5/16”, and 1-1/2” RMC is between 1-7/8” and 1-15/16”) to get the job done. I attached the feet to the columns using carriage bolts — I want to be able to remove this thing and take it with me if / when I move or decide I need a family room more than a gigantic lumber rack.
To secure the columns to the ceiling, I cut a sheet of 7/8” MDF (not my first choice, but I used what the Menards damaged-panel-goods rack had to offer) into 6” strips, then routed ~1-3/4” by 5” notches into one edge. By using this method, I could stack two of the MDF strips (technically four — a long and short strip were needed to reach the necessary length), lag bolt them to the ceiling, stand my columns in place, then capture them with another stack of MDF strips from the other side (see photos — they really are worth a 1000 words in this case). This turned out to be a little more complicated than it should have been, as the previous owners used furring strips on the ceiling as well. I ended up cutting holes in the drywall and putting spacers on the bottom of each joist to bring them flush.
Once that was done, I screwed the horizontal supports in place, cut the pipe to length, and inserted it into the holes. The only thing left to do was load the rack up. I fit everything I had on the floor, a bunch of oak from my rolling lumber cart (which had gotten so heavy it was nearly impossible to get rolling), and nearly two full logs worth of ash I’d been air-drying outside. As you can see, there’s room to spare.
All in all, I couldn’t be happier with the finished product. Thanks for looking!
Update: As promised, here’s a link to the SketchUp file. Please note that I didn’t bother angling the pipes in the model, but when I drilled the holes, I angled them roughly 4 degrees.
-- Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball.