|Project by Jerry||posted 10-09-2009 04:40 AM||9084 views||6 times favorited||3 comments|
“Here is the link to the construction grade 2×4 bench top project;
I laminated and keyed some 2×4 and 2×6 DF construction grade lumber for the entire bench except for the purpleheart accent pieces. Here are the trestle legs I made up for the top. I added some stretchers across the front and rear to tie the two legs together and secured the legs to the top with threaded rod in small slots for movement. I will post some photos of the finished product in a future post when I get the camera out to the shop.
The other pictures are of an old antique 14” Walker Turner band saw I picked up from a friend who literally gave it to me for a pocket hole jig, 2 chisels and a cheapo spray gun. I have since tore it down, repacked the bearings and have it mounted with a transmission so I can cut metal or wood depending on the project at hand. I swear the thing was hardly used given the condition of everything. I had a Baldor 1.5 HP 110/220 motor laying around and after much research I installed a RH drive transmission from the surplus center and got the blade speed down to around 75 FPM for cutting metal. I have since added a Kreg precision bandsaw fence which I am very happy with it as my “Do everything” bandsaw. There is a picture of the saw in a state of “Disassembly” in the gallery here.
The saw’s new base was made out of MDO in an art deco style from the period of the saw (1939) with a few little half round accent pieces added for pizzaz :) It has really worked out well using this to cut metal or wood. I simply change the belt over to the original drive configuration to cut wood. I did not like the jack shaft configuration everyone suggested and went with this instead, I am glad I did, this is a much “Cleaner” way of reducing the 1750 RPM motor than a gang of pulleys, shafts, bearings ad nauseum…;
50:1 RA Gear Reducer , 1.9 HP rating
Alright, back to the workbench project…
Flattening the workbench top with an old Stanley #3, I later used my #8 Joiner plane after I lowered the obvious high spots with my little favorite and a block plane to work the numerous knots over, keep your plane blade sharp when working on the edge grain. Some of the more gnarly knots were just routed out and replaced with a little circle, butterfly or diamond of clear DF scrap, it was just not worth the effort to keep the plane blade shaving sharp to prevent the knots from tearing out, easier and neater to just replace them!
-- "The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives should be a Store, Not a Govt. Agency"