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Tumbling Blocks from a planer

Project by SteveMI posted 53 days ago 878 views 11 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I went to the lumber mill last week before fully thinking out the tumbling block project. I saw some 1 3/4” square stock in red oak, pine and cherry that somehow thought should work. After getting them home and figuring out the lost material of starting with that square size it was back to the drawing board. It made sense to rip the sticks in half. That then became a problem with the TS cutting that small of wood safely.

I don’t have an TS insert with zero clearance or a band saw.

So I decided to make a fixture to be used in a sled with the planer. I cut 5 forms from 1/4” plywood and used MDF separators to hold them vertical. My concern was that they were aligned down the sled. Total sled was 49” and width 12”. The MDF seperators were just 1/2” by 1/2” strips. Tightbond II and brad nailer were used.

Trimmed the board lengths to match the sled trusses and first passes through the planner brought the one side to 60 degrees. Then flipped the boards and planed until the thickness was the same across the parallel flat surfaces. Went really quick.

Glued up the sections and waited. After rough cleaning of the glue with a file, the log went back then through the planer on a MDF sled again to make the parallel side equal. For the sled I used another piece of MDF to minimize any snipe. I put a piece of hard rubber mat between the block log and MDF in order for the log to move the MDF with it through the planer.

Due to the smaller size of the blocks, I used the miter saw to cut the segments. I made a quick zero clearance fence for the saw and put a stop on one side to keep a consistent size. The stop was at 3/8” and worked well.

After hand sanding a dozen, a belt sander is getting higher on my list of things to get. Ended up with 37 blocks out of a 23” log. I have another log from the original material. Blocks are 1 11/16” across the opposing flat sides.

One key point is that the raw boards have to be no longer than the sled forms or they will tip under pressure from the planer rollers. (I didn’t lose any wood from this before I figured it out or any other excitement.)

Quite a few more pictures, but limited to six. Let me know if you need any more details.

Steve.

Edit – I am baffled as to why the blocks look purple, they are still the unfinished natural colors.


18 comments so far

View Joe Weaver's profile

Joe Weaver

107 posts in 579 days


posted 53 days ago

great job,

-- Joe, Ga

View Greg Wurst's profile

Greg Wurst

716 posts in 725 days


posted 53 days ago

It’s Q-Bert!

-- You're a unique and special person, just like everyone else.

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

705 posts in 163 days


posted 53 days ago

Cool…very inventive process….weird color – was that from the camera…or is that what they really look like?

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View SteveMI's profile

SteveMI

209 posts in 187 days


posted 53 days ago

The purple is only on the one picture. Must have been the battery going dead.

I have another picture, but am picture entry challenged.

Steve.

View Karson's profile

Karson

25792 posts in 1293 days


posted 53 days ago

Great blog. Nice engineering.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View DAN 's profile (online now)

DAN

6438 posts in 876 days


posted 53 days ago

fun project posting

-- work from your heart and your spirit will live forever

View huff's profile

huff

1608 posts in 178 days


posted 53 days ago

That’s was interesting. Cool idea with the sled.

-- John @ Myrtle Beach

View Innovator's profile

Innovator

3125 posts in 306 days


posted 53 days ago

Looks beautiful

Nice work

-- Whether You Think You Can or You Think You Can't, YOU ARE RIGHT!!!

View degoose's profile

degoose

1982 posts in 247 days


posted 53 days ago

Great Plan.

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

View Terry's profile

Terry

82 posts in 526 days


posted 52 days ago

Nice tutorial. What is the end product going to be?

View SteveMI's profile

SteveMI

209 posts in 187 days


posted 52 days ago

Tracy – Good question. I wanted to first see if I could make them and if they looked respectable. They were cut to 3/8” thickness for use as an inlay. I’m torn between a smaller table top or the famous cutting board.

Cutting board final surface finish would be a food grade compatible oil.

But if used as a table top inlay I need some suggestions on finish for blocks that will bring out the color differences. Woods are cherry, red oak and poplar. I have some cut offs for testing.

(I made a mistake in first post, it wasn’t pine, but poplar for the third wood.)

Steve.

View notottoman's profile

notottoman

449 posts in 123 days


posted 52 days ago

Beautiful
Can be a coffee table puzzle / game / just for fun / thingimajig…
Because of the hex design…. possibilities are endless..
Well done…. I’m going to try this one !

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

View degoose's profile

degoose

1982 posts in 247 days


posted 52 days ago

Danish oil would be a fine finish for a coffee table style project. Hard wearing and it brings out the color and grains beautifully and it is easy to repair if there is any makes made on it.

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

View SteveMI's profile

SteveMI

209 posts in 187 days


posted 51 days ago

Motottoman – I overlooked making reference to “degoose” who started me on the concept. Check out his blog for a lot more key pointers before you start. My write up really starts after his information and only touches on using a planer for the angles.

Steve.

View DannyBoy's profile

DannyBoy

442 posts in 758 days


posted 48 days ago

Great job. I was inspired enough to try it myself to make a really cool looking cutting board. However, my guides didn’t come out the same.

I made them on the table saw with a dado blade tilted, taped and clamped the guides together (5 in all), and guided them through with the miter. Everything was flush, but I think the front board moved just enough to pull it off of the table by about a 16th of an inch. I think I’ll just end up scrapping those and starting the guides from scratch (or doing it the old fashioned way with a bandsaw).

Seriously great idea, Steve.

~DB

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

View OregonBurls's profile

OregonBurls

155 posts in 41 days


posted 40 days ago

This is so cool I would not be able to do something like that. Wow!

-- Greg, Southern Oregon, www.oregonburls.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

16683 posts in 470 days


posted 40 days ago

Very creative and great job.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

View SteveMI's profile

SteveMI

209 posts in 187 days


posted 39 days ago

Greg – I’m not real humble, but if I can do this you can too. Just a planer, narrow sheet of MDF for sled, small amout of 1/4” plywood and brad stapler. Scroll saw, saber saw or band saw to make the forms. Hand saw to cut the seperators. In my opinion this method is actually safer than a table saw if you keep the strips supported at each end of the jig.

Steve.

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