| Project by notottoman | posted 63 days ago | 802 views | 2 times favorited | 13 comments | ![]() |
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Do not try this at home. This was not a good idea. A waste of time and money.
The steam builds up so much heat, the pvc turns to gloop. As you can see in pic 2.
The water kettle worked so effectivly that it caused so much pressure.
When I say pressure…. I mean … with the lid on the kettle…..snug fit with weight… there is no way out for the steam exept but through the line feed to the steam box. Inside the steam box I had a T piece with copper tube going to either end with small holes periodically drilled. When the water was to temp the steam hissed with pressure through the T / copper pipe fitting…
The PVC pipe DID NOT build up pressure !!!!! It could not… Too many holes….
So I built a better one.
Soon in a “New project”
-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)





























13 comments so far
Splinterman
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4937 posts in 260 days
posted 63 days ago
Hey Noto,
Not too good huh…..but at least you tried.
-- I will just keep doing it till I get it right.
nztoby
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15 posts in 71 days
posted 63 days ago
hi there notto! i have a pvc steam box myself which works well!! the trick is to buy a schedule 40 pvc! (its something to do with the plastic composite i believe). my steam box also uses a water kettle however it enters into one end of the pipe. the pipe sits at a slight angle so as to let the steam travel up the pipe and as it cools the water drips through a small hole back into the kettle! at the other end of the pipe i plug it only with a towel so as to relieve the pressure as steam builds up and it makes the placing and removing wood easy!
keep at it though aye! once it’s succesfull you will open a whole new world of ideas!!!
(check out http://www.matthias-studio.com/) for some inspiration!
regards…. Toby
antmjr
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42 posts in 83 days
posted 63 days ago
you say “it caused so much pressure”, so I wonder if it was perfectly sealed by chance. As far as I know, it isn’t a good practice, the wood must be heated, but just what is needed, not overheated (when overheated, the wood starts losing its Lignina, that’s bad). Someone uses a simple floorcloth to close the opening of the box, and everything works all the same; it is much more important to insulate the box, I think.
-- Antonio --
firecaster
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482 posts in 317 days
posted 63 days ago
There is solid core and there is foam core schedule 40 pvc. Which do you have, Toby? It should say on the info line printed on the side.
-- Father of two sons. Both Eagle Scouts.
FJDIII
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169 posts in 710 days
posted 63 days ago
Check my projects
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/9592
-- Fred.... Poconos, PA ---- Chairwright in the making ----
a1Jim
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17138 posts in 476 days
posted 62 days ago
I thought it was an air canon at first. In wood steam boxes there is always some steam leaking and I agree they are set at an angle.
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com
ramon
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44 posts in 83 days
posted 62 days ago
I also use pvc and was a failure, since then use galvanized iron, namely an old traffic signal and it works pretty well
nztoby
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15 posts in 71 days
posted 62 days ago
Firecaster: i believe off the top of my head it is foam core??? will check later on!
from my experience pressure is not as key to making a bendy bit as the amount of steam you can produce is!
like i said earlier a towel has been sufficient to keep the steam in and bend me some wood!
Ramon: that sounds like an interesting and industrial set up! where did you manage to pick up an old traffic light pole from? does the pipe get hot to the touch? i imagine iron would be heated up pretty easily? no burns i hope?
regards Toby
Smiley
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23 posts in 80 days
posted 62 days ago
I have seen this setup work but they had a pressure release. You might think about adding a small hole to the bottom of the pipe on either end as a pressure release. also a bit more support along the length would help prevent some of the sagging. other wise it looks like a good setup. can’t wait to see ver.2
-- No matter how good or bad a day your having a smile always makes it better!
patron
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2463 posts in 240 days
posted 62 days ago
noto said no ,
that’s good enough for me !
-- david ,new mexico ,allheart
Matthias Pliessnig
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2 posts in 59 days
posted 59 days ago
A friend of mine pointed me to this blog because of this posting. NzToby posted a link to my work (http://www.matthias-studio.com). I’ve gone through so many steamer setups I’m happy to have finally landed at a very efficient yet powerful steamer. Typical PVC (white) won’t work period. Sewage PVC works pretty good (green) but schedule 40 PVC (gray) has a much higher temperature tolerance along with thicker walls. I use a Jiffysteamer for the source at the low end of the tube… the other end is inclined about 3-8 degrees. Right before the steam inlet hole is the water drainage hole that leads to a funnel and then to a bucket. I use the caps that they sell with the tube for the end that needs to be sealed, and the upper end which is the door to access the wood (a wood handle is fitted to that). Also, if you get a 6ft section, you can extend the tube using a coupler). Inside, you need to keep the wood toward the middle (up/down) of the tube to get the steam… so build a ladder that is as long as the tube and wide enough to support itself in the middle of the inner diameter. Last, you need to drill holes on the end of the tube with the door… just before the door. 3-6 holes 1/4” toward the bottom of the tube. This keeps the steam moving but forces it down under the wood.
-- Matthias Pliessnig, Philadelphia, www.matthias-studio.com
EzJack
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179 posts in 70 days
posted 55 days ago
Matthias, you be steam-en. You have got to blog your steamer. hope
-- Ain't better or worse than any other woodpecker in the woods.
Matthias Pliessnig
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2 posts in 59 days
posted 53 days ago
I’m in the process of moving studios right now… but I’ll blog my step by step process of setting it up in about two weeks.
-- Matthias Pliessnig, Philadelphia, www.matthias-studio.com