|Project by bushmaster||posted 01-13-2016 04:12 AM||3581 views||7 times favorited||22 comments|
REWARD offered to the first person who can discover how the blade and the ripper is raised and lowered, no it is not remote control. I will check morning noon and night for a winner.
I will now post the solution as its been a day, THE AIR CLEANER AND EXHAUST STACK SHAFT GOES TO THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, IT HAS A SHORT PIN THROUGH IT AT BOTTOM. JUST PULL EITHER ONE UP AND TURN, A LITTLE PIN STICKS UP SO YOU CAN PUSH BACK DOWN TO SECURE AT ANY HEIGHT. NYLON FISHING LINE IS USED AS A CABLE TO RAISE AND LOWER. AIR CLEANER OPERATES THE BLADE AND THE EXHAUST STACK OPERATES THE RIPPER
Comments and question are appreciated, I have many more pictures of the parts and pieces but mainly wanted to post how to make tracks easily, it may look hard but it isn’t, the end result is worth it.
I was inspired to build one of these model by a number of these toys that has been posted recently and I wanted to develope an idea that I had to build an easy to make wood track. I hope the idea I have had will help many of you to duplicate the idea for bulldozer projects.
I had no plan and just built and designed it as I went along, the construction process turned out to be entirely different than I had originally envisioned. I am happy with what I did and would do it again. The major componets of the project are attached to the main frame by screws. It is not to scale, just chose sizes that looked good, if I had found a scale picture on the internet at the beginning of the construction it could have been abit better.
The first decision I made was to make the tracks 22 inches around and and 2 inch idler and drive sprocket and then went from there. I am going to attempt to post pictures of making the tracks.
My idea was simple, glue pads to a flexible strap which I obtained from the sewing supply store, 3/4 inch wide. On this model I lapped sewed it together, but the next morning, it dawned on me I could have joined it but to but. I experimented and it worked very good. crazy glue the ends together then sew back and forth, then glue a pad over the joint.
I then took this band and arranged it on paper and board using 2 inch disks to see how it would look
The next thing was to make the pads and and a jig to glue them on, the pads where made by shaping a long stick on table saw using a dado blade, then chopped to length, I set the saw to a 20 degree angle so the pads look like they overlap abit, the lower part on the other side has to be also slanted so it will roll around the idler, I did that free hand on a disc sander. All that has to be done now is rip a thin slot for the cleat and glue a small piece of wood in. Right, clear as mud…
The wood between the end rollers is 3/4 inch wide to aid in lining up the pads and alowing you to apply pressure when glueing, Important, a small space is necessary between the pads, use 5 minute epoxy, lat dry and move around, leave as large as apace to glue the last pads. that way you can adjust the space equally between the last pads, it is better to be alittle short and then slightly sand some off each one that to leae a space that looks bigger. I should NOTE. beforE the band is cut you must lay the all out on the band with the spacing between the pads, THEN CUT THE BAND TO LENGTH.
All done, Now if you have a lathe, lathe idlers, rollers etc, I made each side separately and glued them to a spacern then everything was built on that, the upper roller is attached to a slide the has two tension adjustment screws. Everything was built on top of that. The cab can be removed with one screw to get to the track adjustment screw. I will just post another couple pictures of this part
It takes just one bucket to hold all the parts before final assembly
-- Brian - Hazelton, British Columbia