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4” blast gates made out of mdf, uhmw, and s&d couplings split in half
Dec 26, 2015
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44 posts in 510 days
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#1 posted 12-26-2015 05:57 AM
On my to do list, yours look great.
-- Lifting one end of the plank.
#2 posted 12-26-2015 12:58 PM
Thanks, the bodies are 1/4 mdf, because it’s what i had laying around, i would recommend going with 1/2 or 3/4 if you are going to buy the material, or, as i would like to do, make the entire thing out of uhmw with an o-ring recessed around the tube on the suction side to seal when closed. The o-ring idea is one that you hqve to know going into it that it will have to be cleaned periodically, but with removable gates, shouldn’t be an issue.
1251 posts in 1701 days
#3 posted 12-26-2015 02:57 PM
Wish I had made with slide through plated, dust keep getting stuck in them and I use a the pointed end of a chainsaw file to dig it out, better than bought ones though as the slot it to narrow. Thanks, may modify mine.
-- Brian - Hazelton, British Columbia
#4 posted 12-26-2015 04:00 PM
Hey Brian, you can try drilling a hole in the bottom of the body at the center of the gate hole in the closed position, that way when you close the gate the dust that is caught can fall out. Im not good at explaining things, but picture a notch in the bottom body slide that lines up with the gate hole in the closed position, or even better yet, trim the bottom corner of the body out so when you close the gate, it pushes the trapped dust out the corner.
1417 posts in 595 days
#5 posted 12-26-2015 04:39 PM
Thanks for the post. As I get ready to upgrade my DC I have considered making my own blast gates. How tight of a fit is the sliding gate? It would seem like it would have to be very snug so that it blocks air flow when closed, but this would make it harder to open & close the gate.
-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith
115172 posts in 2996 days
#6 posted 12-26-2015 04:46 PM
-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture
#7 posted 12-26-2015 04:47 PM
My bodies are 1/8-1/16 wider than the slide. This allows the slide to be sucked flat to the body when closed from the vacuum created by the dc. Make sure the surfaces are extra smooth so they suck together tight. The only downside to a “tight” gate, is they may not actually seal well as they can’t be sucked tight to the body. Also, imho, all gates leak a little, some are just worse than others
#8 posted 12-26-2015 04:54 PM
Would covering the side of the slider with rubber help with the seal? I am thinking something like an old rubber inner tube (if they still make them). Or painting on some of the rubber / plastic coating material that you dip the handles of tools in.
#9 posted 12-26-2015 05:25 PM
Ive used plastidip on other projects, and eventually it peels, and would, imo, lead to a worse yet seal. I thought of maybe cutting a ring on the inside of the body around the exit tube, and gluing in a big o-ring.
84 posts in 1386 days
#10 posted 12-26-2015 11:20 PM
very nice work. thanks for sharing.
#11 posted 12-27-2015 03:37 PM
Update. Bkast gates are now unstalled, with all closed i did a smoke test (held a cig up around each gate) and noticed no noticeable aur leaks, though my trash can separator is another story, now to fix that one. I have an older griz 1 hp dust collector and a homemade (rough prototype, very rough) thien seperator over a metal trash can, all run on 4” s&d pipe, and a few semi rigid 4” flex. Even with this under powered machine, and my can separator leak, I’m quite pleased with the results so far, it won’t pick up small pieces of wood, but dust and chips are a thing of the past. My collector sits in a separate room used for coal and wood storage, so i may remove the filter bags all together as dust in that room is of no concern. Pictures are from a dry run of plumbing to see how it would work out. Maybe now i can put my shop back together.
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