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Old Adirondack

Project by janice posted 84 days ago 385 views 1 time favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Old Adirondack
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Well, it’s not really that old, only about 7 or 8 years ago I built this with my brother, one for both of us. I only said it was old to see if I can get your attention. We used cedar for this and it really doesnt look good anymore. Every year you have to powerwash it and restain it and that’s too much trouble. I’ve seen alot of different styles of these chairs on this site and I would really like to build this one over again, but with what wood. I was hoping someone could tell me what would hold up outdoors better then cedar. Doesnt have to be the best, but better, remember I don’t like to spend alot of money on these projects. Even the screws are rusting. I know we used expensive carriage bolts, but I don’t remember what kind they were, but they’re rusting too. If anyone can give some advise I would appreciate it. Thanks.

-- Janice


16 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

16910 posts in 473 days


posted 84 days ago

Cedar should have held up. you can also use redwood, epi, White oak,cypress and stainless steel screws and bolts.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

Jim, the Cedar is holding up, but it turns so grey. I think it looks ugly compared to the new ones I see on here. Just wondering how those are holding up too. I do have to say it does match my fence.

-- Janice

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

16910 posts in 473 days


posted 84 days ago

Hey Janice
Have you tried deck cleaner on it? You just spray it on and let it set and rinse off .Just follow the directions on the container.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

No I havent, thanks. I’ll try that.

-- Janice

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

195 posts in 131 days


posted 84 days ago

For outdoor furniture, I’ve been considering trying ipe. I’ve read that when used as outdoor decking material it will last 50+ years with zero maintenance, or longer if you actually seal it. The downside to it is the fact that it is so dense, I’ve read it’s rough on tools. Also, that density makes it difficult to stain and seal, and it will slowly change color like the cedar in your pictures if left unsealed. Not bad, just different. Research shows ipe can be had for around $7-9/bf, so it doesn’t seem prohibitively expensive either, considering how long it lasts!

View Built2Last's profile

Built2Last

103 posts in 373 days


posted 84 days ago

Hey Janice
With cedar you have to spray spar (marine) varnish on it every couple of years for it to keep it’s color. I have some adirondack chairs that I built seventeen years ago and they are still holding up fine out of pressure treated. They have turned grey but still sturdy. I got a order yesterday for some ad chairs, footrest and end table and I’m building those out of treated lumber. As far as screws go, stainless are the best for expensive. I use a screw called Macro Brite 500. I think they are made in Wisconsin or somewhere up north. They are the next best thing to stainless. I’ve been using them for about 4 years now and I still have seen one rust. You can screw one within 1/2” of a treated 1 by 2” without pre-drilling and they won’t bust out. It’s about the best screw I have ever used. I find mine on ebay.
Whatever you use, unless maybe the new composite’s will turn grey over time. For the cost treated is hard to beat. I expecially like the new lighter colored. It takes stain or paint really well and doesn’t seem to crack and get check marks as bad as the old.

-- BUILT TO LAST WOODWORKS, West Blocton, Alabama

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

No kidding, treated lumber? Well, that does weather too. We have a picinic table out of cedar at the river and it’s grey, but sturdy. My chair is still sturdy, it just doesnt look like anything I ‘ve seen on this site. But then again I guess mine looked pretty good too when it was new wood. I also wasnt sure you could paint or stain treated lumber. I know I read somewhere your really not suppose to make picnic tables, or swing sets out of treated lumber because of the chemicals and little kids touching and putting their hands in their mouths. But then again, they say all kinds of things now days when it comes to kids. I know I lived this long. Thanks for the advise.

-- Janice

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

I’ve never heard of ipe? But I’ll check into it. Thanks.

-- Janice

View Built2Last's profile

Built2Last

103 posts in 373 days


posted 84 days ago

The part about using around kids was the old treated lumber. That’s the reason they made them start using this new stuff. It’s safe for picnic tables, kid’s swingsets, etc.

-- BUILT TO LAST WOODWORKS, West Blocton, Alabama

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

I didnt know there was new stuff. My husband uses treated lumber all the time especially at the river. But it’s usually for construction, boat docks, steps to the river that sort of stuff, not furniture. Thanks, now I know. Learn something everyday, this was it.

-- Janice

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

I do have to say, I do like the style of this one. A friend of ours brought his moms whole set out to the river to burn. He loves fires. He said it was about 20 years old and rotten. Me and my brother grabbed the seatee and wouldnt let him burn it. We took it home and took it apart and drew our pattern from that. Then my brother slapped it back together with a few new boards and gave it to the girl that was having the fire. She painted it and it’s still there.

-- Janice

View janice's profile

janice

299 posts in 321 days


posted 84 days ago

My husband just informed about the new stuff. Like I said, he uses it, I don’t. Should have asked him about it.

-- Janice

View HarleySoftailDeuce's profile

HarleySoftailDeuce

154 posts in 315 days


posted 84 days ago

Cypress is another very good outdoor wood if you have access to it.

-- Paul, Bristol,Rhode Island

View Dadoo's profile

Dadoo

1723 posts in 886 days


posted 83 days ago

Hi Janice! Try teak…It’s expensive but the best. I’ve recently posted a settee that is a combo of Southern Yellow Pine and Cyprus. I used a quality deck stain on the pine, so it should hold up. I do have a picnic table that has set outdoors for like 15+ years and is still lookin’ new…it was made from 100% pressure treated pine and quality deck stain. Your hardware (screws and bolts) should all be stainless steel. There are a lot of different type deck screws available today…all look good for lasting qualities. Countersink them and plug the holes…no rust. Don’t use galvanized though as it gives some woods (oak,cedar) a black stain. Good luck and be sure to keep us in the loop!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

View CaptainSkully's profile

CaptainSkully

490 posts in 454 days


posted 83 days ago

I used Ipe (aka Brazilian Walnut, pronounced “epay”) that I got from a flooring place to build a project. It was relatively cheap. It’s kind of unpleasant to work with, but it’s bullet-proof. I use stainless steel hardware and 3M 5200 adhesive from West Marine for outdoor projects. I really like your design. BTW, I’m also from St. Louis! Imo’s, Rigazzi’s, Cunetto’s, Ted Drewe’s – Yummm…

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

View studie's profile

studie

104 posts in 43 days


posted 33 days ago

I use IPE as often as I can. For outdoor projects it cant be beat. See my projects & you can see even mortice tenon joinery is possible with this wood. Miles of decks I’ve installed, I like to use Ebtie fasteners. They are a nylon biscuit with a stainless trim screw to hold the boards down. It makes for an (almost) invisible fastener but you have to screw the ends of each board to locate them as they would move a bit otherwise. Coating IPE is best done with Sikkens Dek product in my opinion. It’s super tough as it is formulated for abrasion resistance on decks. But dont sand too smooth, #80 grit works best as the manufacture says. It’s so dense it needs tooth to stick! Also they recommend wiping with acetone just prior to coating as the wood is very oily. This is the premium finish but is tricky, not too hot, drys SUPER slowwwww so stuff can settle, dust, leaves ect. Penofin is next on my list, much easier to work but not quite as beautiful & way not as tough.

-- $tudie

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