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2nd set of pens, 1st ones worth posting

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Project by fladdy posted 11-23-2015 02:56 AM 530 views 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is my second attempt at turning some pens. The first one didn’t turn out so well, and one of them went thru the wash. Three of them are slimlines and the other is a fountain pen. First one on the left is maple (I think, it may have been part of the south african blanks that I got), then walnut, and the last 2 are purple heart.

These finish on these turned out better than last time. I sanded them down to 600 (probably more than I needed to) and then put on 3 coats of CA glue. Sanded between the coats lightly, and finished with 3 coats of a friction polish. This may not be a preferred method of finishing them, but I’m learning. Any tips from some other pen makers would be appreciated as I’m still learning.

Thanks for looking.

-- Fladdy





6 comments so far

View Ebro's profile

Ebro

158 posts in 1202 days


#1 posted 11-23-2015 03:14 AM

Nice job. For what it’s worth, I only use CA glue. Usually 8-10 coats of thin glue then buffed to a high sheen with a cloth wheel & compound on my grinder. IMHO, friction polishes don’t hold up, but the CA glue is the toughest finish I’ve come across. I hope that helps.

View jeff's profile

jeff

988 posts in 2931 days


#2 posted 11-23-2015 04:33 AM

Here’s a good link to finishing pens https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjzXpD08ozw.When I started turning pens I used Hut friction polish because this is what came in a beginners kit I received from my wife.It was very easy to apply,but didn’t last to long.Then I started using this http://doctorswoodshop.com/Products/PensPlus.aspx.I still finish some pens this way-I like it much better then Huts friction polish.But recently I have been following the first link to finish pens now.I start with 15-240 grit and sand through 600.After each grit I sand the length of the pen blank to get the sanding lines out.A little denatured alcohol afterward to clean up the blank.Next 2-3 coats of Stick Fast ca glue applied using white paper towels-a shot of accelerator between coats,then 4-6 coats of medium Stick Fast ca glue with accelerator again inbetween coats.I let this set-up for 15-30 minutes.Next I sand with either 400 or 600 grit to knock down the ca glue ridges and make it dull-sanding length wise also.Next comes wet sanding with micro mesh 1500-12000-sanding length wise also through each grit.I follow this with Meguiars plastic polish and I swear it looks like glass.Remember ca glue doesn’t like heat and I think friction polish after ca glue would not be the best way to go IMHO.Hope this helps…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View Colin's profile

Colin

158 posts in 830 days


#3 posted 11-23-2015 08:01 AM

Nice pens Dude – I like to finish CA with auto T-cut after the 1200 – is that similar to plastic polish?

-- Live Forever...............or Die Trying

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 643 days


#4 posted 11-23-2015 11:53 AM

I like the shape of the fourth pen.

Keep on turning.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View fladdy's profile

fladdy

93 posts in 2479 days


#5 posted 11-23-2015 02:50 PM

Thanks for the tips from everyone. I’m still learning. I have some Dr. Kirk’s Scratch free woodturners polishing wax. Would I use that instead of the friction polish?

Jeff – you do the CA, sand them down, and then use the plastic polish?

-- Fladdy

View jeff's profile

jeff

988 posts in 2931 days


#6 posted 11-24-2015 05:59 AM

Fladdy—,yes plastic polish is used after wet micro mesh sanding.You only need a very small dab of it.With grits 150-240 through 600 I sand at 600-800 rpms,maybe a little faster.Micro mesh a little faster in the lower grits-1000-1500 rpm,then 1500-2200 rpm with the higher grits.No experience with the polishing wax you mentioned.You Tube has many videos on ca finishing ect.

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

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